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75 f250 ignition issues.

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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 02:32 PM
  #16  
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I typed the 1975 module part number (D5AZ-12A199-C) into the search box, found a post with all the 1974/79 colors listed.

Black grommet = 1974 // Green grommet = 1975.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 03:26 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kelso345
I believe this is the duraspark 2 setup. It has a typical rotor and points cap with the magnetic pick up coil instead of a condenser.
The early Duraspark systems still used the smaller points-style cap. I'm pretty sure 1977 was when Ford introduced the larger-diameter caps, with the lower plastic piece which clips to the dizzy - I forget what it's called...
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 03:44 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by meangreen92
The early Duraspark systems still used the smaller points-style cap. 1977 was when Ford introduced the larger-diameter caps, with the lower plastic piece which clips to the dizzy - I forget what it's called...
Dizzy caps - See the last line in post #7
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 05:40 PM
  #19  
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Thanks guys for all the info. I'll get back to you in a week or so had to leave town for work. Also need to get a better electrical meter.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 08:06 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
I typed the 1975 module part number (D5AZ-12A199-C) into the search box, found a post with all the 1974/79 colors listed.

Black grommet = 1974 // Green grommet = 1975.
Did you keep the direct link to the chart by any chance? When I google it, I get tons of results of course, but at least for the first 20 or so, nothing remotely resembling a list or chart comes up.

I've seen Black, Brown, Yellow, Red, Green, Blue and White maybe? And I thought one other color (Orange maybe?) but not sure about that detail.
Some were CA only I thought, supposedly meant to work better with the leaner mixtures associated with mid-seventies smog stuff. Some had start-retard functions and some did not from what I used to read on the subject. But again, don't know that little detail because most, if not all, had wiring so that the module received a START signal. To what end I don't now.
When I first converted my '71, I purchased one of the CA-only units (Red or Yellow maybe?) thinking I'd get a hotter spark, but ended up using the Blue module in the end because everyone said it would be easier to wire and more common as a replacement at most parts stores. Returned the other one without ever using it.

Interesting that one guy on an old forum (some members here were participating in the discussion too) replaced his original Black grommet box with a suitable cheap parts store substitute as an experiment and the timing was retarded 4° from it's previous setting.

All old business I suppose, but all still very interesting to date-geeks like me.
Enquiring minds need to know after all!

Paul
 
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 02:41 AM
  #21  
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4-03-2018 / 1980/86 forum / Duraspark Module Grommet Colors / Colors listed in post #3 by matthewq4b

The CA only red grommet module (D7AZ-12A199-A) was a turd, I could tell you horror stories about it. PASS!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 09:42 AM
  #22  
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My 75 XLT Ranger Camper Special had original Duraspark Ignition.....I went oh yuck when I seen it when looking at purchasing this beauty of a truck back in 2013, hoping it had point ignition actually.

So I drove it until those Duraspark Ignition problems would start to persist...Within a year the engine dies on a commute after work and would not spark at all when attempting to restart it, thank god it was a warm February day +26 F after a recent -42 F below coldspell for a week and was within a mile walking distance from the parts store and made it 6 minutes from closing when I got there as they had one module box onhand and plugged that in and engine immediately started on the side of the road where the truck was parked, back in business....

The following summer the scenario happened to me what NumberDummy had posted earlier on this thread, except it was the distributor sensor pickup on mine failing this time rather than the module as I mounted mine well away from any heat and grounded it with a nice 10 gauge cable for good measure :

The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition distributor :

1) Distributor overheats, engine dies. Distributor cools down, engine restarts 8 to 15 minutes.

2) Distributor overheats again after the next 5 minute commute, engine dies. Distributor cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so........Made it home.

3) Yank and Pull - Removed DuraSpark ignition distributor, - DONE !


The 4 step scenario of fixing a failing DuraSpark ignition distributor :

4) Install and Upgrade - a Reman Cardone Point Ignition Distributor, Removed Points, installed Pertronix II Ignition Module and Pickup Sensor in place of Points.

5) Removed stock 1.5 ohm ignition coil and disconnected resistor factory ignition wire and Installed New 0.6 ohm Pertronix Ignition II FlameThrower Coil.

6) Unplugged Duraspark Module Box Plug Wiring and Installed Custom 16 Gauge Wire From (+) Pertronix Ignition II FlameThrower Coil Terminal Direct to Ignition Switch and bypassing Factory Resistor Wire With Constant 14 Volts to Coil !

7) Drive Vehicle With Great Reliable Worry Free Ignition System - without a Module Box.


That's exactly what I did !!!!!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 10:37 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by AKsilvereagle
My 75 XLT Ranger Camper Special had original Duraspark Ignition.....I went oh yuck when I seen it when looking at purchasing this beauty of a truck back in 2013, hoping it had point ignition actually.

So I drove it until those Duraspark Ignition problems would start to persist...Within a year the engine dies on a commute after work and would not spark at all when attempting to restart it, thank god it was a warm February day +26 F after a recent -42 F below coldspell for a week and was within a mile walking distance from the parts store and made it 6 minutes from closing when I got there as they had one module box onhand and plugged that in and engine immediately started on the side of the road where the truck was parked, back in business....

The following summer the scenario happened to me what NumberDummy had posted earlier on this thread, except it was the distributor sensor pickup on mine failing this time rather than the module as I mounted mine well away from any heat and grounded it with a nice 10 gauge cable for good measure :

The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition distributor

1) Distributor overheats, engine dies. Distributor cools down, engine restarts 8 to 15 minutes.

2) Distributor overheats again after the next 5 minute commute, engine dies. Distributor cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so........Made it home.

3) Yank and Pull - Removed DuraSpark ignition distributor. - DONE !
The module overheats, not the distributor, see post #11.

Module located on the left fender inner apron. Engine heat, especially when radiating from the V8's red hot left exhaust manifold, is the mortal enemy of these modules.
 
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