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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Steering/ignition lock

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Old Apr 20, 2019 | 09:44 PM
  #1  
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Steering/ignition lock

I've an '89 F250 here on the farm that I don't use anymore due to severe MN rust out. It's had a 500 gal water tank in the back for the past few years and I've been hauling water out to a remote pasture for cattle. Floor's gone. doors won't shut 'cuz the cab bottom rear has rotted off the floor and swings in the breeze. Retirement time. I plan on hauling it for scrap a bit later this spring but need to get it into the yard, to my shop to remove the 5th wheel hitch from under the box. I cannot come with the keys and obviously can't steer it. My skidder can pick up 1750#, but it just picks the back of the skidder up when I try to lift the front end. I would like to bust open, out, whatever the right term is, the ignition switch/steering column lock. Short of the hot wrench, anyone have any ideas? To much "stuff" up under there to use the torch. Thanks
 
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 07:11 AM
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tjc transport
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the steering wheel lock is a small 1/4 inch piece of pot metal. easy to break when out of the column, but pretty robust when still in it.
to start the engine all you have to do is drop the ignition switch and move it with a screwdriver.
to steer, try wrenching back and forth on the steering wheel HARD. you may be able to break the pot metal piece.
or you can do the car thief thing and break the key cylinder out .
under the key cylinder is a hole. run a drill up there and drill out the cylinder retainer pin. then the key cylinder will come out and you can use a flathead screwdriver to start it.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 09:30 AM
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Thanks, I will take a look. I don't plan on running it, the rad is out, starter acting up etc, I just need to be able to steer it so I can push/pull it up to my shop. Should be a simple deal,
 
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 03:26 PM
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oldproudvet
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Tom, I did the American thing, after monkeying around for way to much time, asking a few guys, I thought just maybe I just take a look at the factory books. Gee, the shop manual Ford printed back then had 2 categories for the cylinder lock removal. #1: If you have the key, #2 If you have no key, and not a prayer of getting or finding it. Quick and to the point. Pull the wheel to get it out of the way (not necessary) take a 3/8th drill and drill down the center of the key slot, pull out the pieces. It's an aluminum casting and I didn't get my pilot drill just right, so the hole was a bit off center, but a die grinder did the trick and lock pins popped out, grabbed the remnants and turned the guts and I can steer. Thanks again

Larry
 
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 05:22 PM
  #5  
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tjc transport
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good deal. i keep forgetting about drilling down the center of the key slot and lulling out the guts because i usually repair not junk.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 05:53 PM
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I'm the same way, never hauled a tub for scrap, that's why the "issue" I taught vocational automotive for 35 years, but never taught kids to destroy, But every once in a while. I bought this truck in 1991 and it's been a super one. Mobil 1 since that time, and at 540.000 miles still uses NO oil. I've had the engine out twice over the years to look at rod bearings and put in a timing chain and gears, never changed the rods and she's still a great runner. I put a Banks stainless header/exhaust on on in '92, lost the smog pump "stuff', egr, cat etc just for engine bay cleanup and to get rid of excess heat. Doesn't affect anything else, like mileage. The 5 spd and transfer case still function flawlessly and will be pulled this week. Hopefully they'll find a home. I've 2 '97 460 5 spds I've bought out of the SW that are rust free and they'll outlive me.
 
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