brake bleed hell
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 826
Likes: 21
From: Golden, CO
brake bleed hell
For the life of me I can't seem to get these brakes bled... 
Everything is new. Thought I was good to go with everything installed, would pump the brakes during bleed process and get firm pedal. But as soon as engine running (booster) brakes just go to floor. I've tried gravity bleeding, and also rented a vacuum brake tool which was supposed to suck fluid from the wheels -- that was a joke and didn't work at all.
Decided to go ahead and pull the hard lines from the (dual) MC and try to "bench bleed" again, so installed two short soft lines from the ports to each reservoir. The problem is, no matter how much I depress the pedal, the air in the MC just flows through the tube but never completely out, so when you release it gets sucked back in. Over and over again, bubbles in the reservoir, but bubbles in the line which don't get all the way "out", so sucked back in.
Could really use some advice. This is the second MC from Speedway, as the first one seemed to have a leak at one of the unused ports. Wondering if this one is jacked, too??
Thx
Everything is new. Thought I was good to go with everything installed, would pump the brakes during bleed process and get firm pedal. But as soon as engine running (booster) brakes just go to floor. I've tried gravity bleeding, and also rented a vacuum brake tool which was supposed to suck fluid from the wheels -- that was a joke and didn't work at all.
Decided to go ahead and pull the hard lines from the (dual) MC and try to "bench bleed" again, so installed two short soft lines from the ports to each reservoir. The problem is, no matter how much I depress the pedal, the air in the MC just flows through the tube but never completely out, so when you release it gets sucked back in. Over and over again, bubbles in the reservoir, but bubbles in the line which don't get all the way "out", so sucked back in.
Could really use some advice. This is the second MC from Speedway, as the first one seemed to have a leak at one of the unused ports. Wondering if this one is jacked, too??
Thx
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 37
From: Eastern shore,Salisbur,MD
This may sound like a dumb question, but when you were bleeding the brakes, did you have some one to depress the peddle while you actually opened and closed the bleeder valve.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 826
Likes: 21
From: Golden, CO
yep, three different people over different days…
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,149
Likes: 194
if you get a firm pedal , and lose it when engine is running. does it come firm again when you shut engine off. sometimes i completely block of lines at mastercylinder,to be sure problems is not in the wheels or hoses. if you plug the 2 ports at mastercylinder does it do the same !
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 37
From: Eastern shore,Salisbur,MD
Here is a trouble that I shot when I did my brakes. I could not get good peddle after bleeding. It turned out that on my truck the main vacuum line from the manifold fed a junction block with several vacuum lines off of it. One line went to a Vacuum tank, another line went to a vacuum actuated control **** that opp-orated a piece in the pump, another line went to the brake booster, Big one mounted in the frame rails. These were original 3/4 inch hard rubber lines that looked like heater hose, but much stiffer to handle the vacuum. Thru all of this there were leaks. Blocked off the stuff I no longer needed, and put new lines in. Ant that was it
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 989
Likes: 113
From: australia
When bleeding your brakes are you starting at the back and working your way forward .
You need to start at r/h rear , then l/h rear , r/h front then l/h front .
Bleed each wheel until you have no bubbles appearing , and don't let the fluid get too low in the m/cyl or you will introduce more air into the system .
Do you get good flow at all wheels when bleeding ?
You need to start at r/h rear , then l/h rear , r/h front then l/h front .
Bleed each wheel until you have no bubbles appearing , and don't let the fluid get too low in the m/cyl or you will introduce more air into the system .
Do you get good flow at all wheels when bleeding ?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
Likes: 55
From: Moro Bay, AR
These bleeders have a check valve in them, you just crack one open at a time and pump the pedal. The check valve keeps air from being sucked back in when you release the pedal.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 826
Likes: 21
From: Golden, CO
vacuum lines are new. also, would think that booster (vacuum) problem would mean that pedal would be harder not softer no?
Here is a trouble that I shot when I did my brakes. I could not get good peddle after bleeding. It turned out that on my truck the main vacuum line from the manifold fed a junction block with several vacuum lines off of it. One line went to a Vacuum tank, another line went to a vacuum actuated control **** that opp-orated a piece in the pump, another line went to the brake booster, Big one mounted in the frame rails. These were original 3/4 inch hard rubber lines that looked like heater hose, but much stiffer to handle the vacuum. Thru all of this there were leaks. Blocked off the stuff I no longer needed, and put new lines in. Ant that was it
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 826
Likes: 21
From: Golden, CO
yes, in that order.
front passenger doesn't seem to flow as well actually compared to the rest… but once pedal is firm and i start motor pedal goes to floor.
front passenger doesn't seem to flow as well actually compared to the rest… but once pedal is firm and i start motor pedal goes to floor.
When bleeding your brakes are you starting at the back and working your way forward .
You need to start at r/h rear , then l/h rear , r/h front then l/h front .
Bleed each wheel until you have no bubbles appearing , and don't let the fluid get too low in the m/cyl or you will introduce more air into the system .
Do you get good flow at all wheels when bleeding ?
You need to start at r/h rear , then l/h rear , r/h front then l/h front .
Bleed each wheel until you have no bubbles appearing , and don't let the fluid get too low in the m/cyl or you will introduce more air into the system .
Do you get good flow at all wheels when bleeding ?
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 826
Likes: 21
From: Golden, CO
disc up front, drum in rear.
disc was conversion kit, all new, pre-assembled.
disc was conversion kit, all new, pre-assembled.
