Metal prep
#1
#2
If you don't want to mess around, use straight muriatic acid, it will dissolve the rust and give nice shiny metal.
You have about 24 hours before it flash rusts again.
you also can use phosphoric acid which will convert any rust left over to iron oxide.
Use a respirator/safety glasses and chemical resistant rubber gloves and rinse well..
If it's pitted pretty well and grinding/sanding will take too much material off to get to those areas, use a combination.
Muriatic >rinse> phosphoric >rinse >seal
I used muriatic on my drivers doors last summer and rattle can'd it. It still looks good enough.
I used a chemical resistant spray bottle, sprayed the acid on, rinsed it with plenty of water, let it dry and rattled primer/paint on it.
I don't recommend windy days if outside and not in any part of a driveway you care about. It will eat pavement and probably etch concrete.
Since it's floorboards you most likely won't have to worry about that though, as you'll be sponging up the excess.
Keep the other door open to allow airflow thru even though you'll be wearing a respirator you don't want the acid fumes hanging around.
You have about 24 hours before it flash rusts again.
you also can use phosphoric acid which will convert any rust left over to iron oxide.
Use a respirator/safety glasses and chemical resistant rubber gloves and rinse well..
If it's pitted pretty well and grinding/sanding will take too much material off to get to those areas, use a combination.
Muriatic >rinse> phosphoric >rinse >seal
I used muriatic on my drivers doors last summer and rattle can'd it. It still looks good enough.
I used a chemical resistant spray bottle, sprayed the acid on, rinsed it with plenty of water, let it dry and rattled primer/paint on it.
I don't recommend windy days if outside and not in any part of a driveway you care about. It will eat pavement and probably etch concrete.
Since it's floorboards you most likely won't have to worry about that though, as you'll be sponging up the excess.
Keep the other door open to allow airflow thru even though you'll be wearing a respirator you don't want the acid fumes hanging around.
#3
#6
On my research the POR15 required metal etching to adhere to clean metal surfaces - could you post an update on how well it holds up at a later date?
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sancochojoe
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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03-22-2005 05:07 PM