New head gaskets??
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New head gaskets??
So when doing new head gaskets on a 6.0 do I have to have the heads completely gone over or can I just get the head surfaced and do my new gaskets and head studs. Or is it worth it to drop 1200 to have to heads totally gone over.
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Senior User
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So let's say my heads are not cracked and the are flat and not warped. Do I need to have the totally re done.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,835
Likes: 3,124
From: Jersey Shore
That depends on your intentions for the truck.
If you don't have good experience rebuilding motors or know the issues you are better off having a reputable machinist go over them.
If you are damn comfortable with the work, both as a mechanic and machinist, you first have to clean the decks, check for flatness - two approaches, Ford's latest TSB or the original cross surface flatness. Then pull the valves and inspect the valves for pitting and margins, seat surfaces, and the stem to guide clearance for wear. Once the seats are very clean you can do an inspection for cracks and pitting, although Magneflxing is the better method of checking. Not foolproof, as with all techniques.
So now you've done all the cleanup, all the measuring, all the inspection, and if anything is amiss, now you can take it all to the machinist to repeat all of that himself before fixing what needs to be done.
I'm getting away with working my heads at home, but my heads meet the specs. Some exhaust valves were too pitted at 75k miles, so they're getting all new valves since I don't have a valve grinder in the garage. Having a shop do the valves would be cheaper, but that piecemeal work the only a good buddy would do. And in that case, he'd be doing the heads anyway.
If you don't have good experience rebuilding motors or know the issues you are better off having a reputable machinist go over them.
If you are damn comfortable with the work, both as a mechanic and machinist, you first have to clean the decks, check for flatness - two approaches, Ford's latest TSB or the original cross surface flatness. Then pull the valves and inspect the valves for pitting and margins, seat surfaces, and the stem to guide clearance for wear. Once the seats are very clean you can do an inspection for cracks and pitting, although Magneflxing is the better method of checking. Not foolproof, as with all techniques.
So now you've done all the cleanup, all the measuring, all the inspection, and if anything is amiss, now you can take it all to the machinist to repeat all of that himself before fixing what needs to be done.
I'm getting away with working my heads at home, but my heads meet the specs. Some exhaust valves were too pitted at 75k miles, so they're getting all new valves since I don't have a valve grinder in the garage. Having a shop do the valves would be cheaper, but that piecemeal work the only a good buddy would do. And in that case, he'd be doing the heads anyway.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
That depends on your intentions for the truck.
If you don't have good experience rebuilding motors or know the issues you are better off having a reputable machinist go over them.
If you are damn comfortable with the work, both as a mechanic and machinist, you first have to clean the decks, check for flatness - two approaches, Ford's latest TSB or the original cross surface flatness. Then pull the valves and inspect the valves for pitting and margins, seat surfaces, and the stem to guide clearance for wear. Once the seats are very clean you can do an inspection for cracks and pitting, although Magneflxing is the better method of checking. Not foolproof, as with all techniques.
So now you've done all the cleanup, all the measuring, all the inspection, and if anything is amiss, now you can take it all to the machinist to repeat all of that himself before fixing what needs to be done.
I'm getting away with working my heads at home, but my heads meet the specs. Some exhaust valves were too pitted at 75k miles, so they're getting all new valves since I don't have a valve grinder in the garage. Having a shop do the valves would be cheaper, but that piecemeal work the only a good buddy would do. And in that case, he'd be doing the heads anyway.
If you don't have good experience rebuilding motors or know the issues you are better off having a reputable machinist go over them.
If you are damn comfortable with the work, both as a mechanic and machinist, you first have to clean the decks, check for flatness - two approaches, Ford's latest TSB or the original cross surface flatness. Then pull the valves and inspect the valves for pitting and margins, seat surfaces, and the stem to guide clearance for wear. Once the seats are very clean you can do an inspection for cracks and pitting, although Magneflxing is the better method of checking. Not foolproof, as with all techniques.
So now you've done all the cleanup, all the measuring, all the inspection, and if anything is amiss, now you can take it all to the machinist to repeat all of that himself before fixing what needs to be done.
I'm getting away with working my heads at home, but my heads meet the specs. Some exhaust valves were too pitted at 75k miles, so they're getting all new valves since I don't have a valve grinder in the garage. Having a shop do the valves would be cheaper, but that piecemeal work the only a good buddy would do. And in that case, he'd be doing the heads anyway.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,835
Likes: 3,124
From: Jersey Shore
You can dye check, which if done correctly works as well. Even Magnaflux will tell you there dye check done properly can be better than the magnetic testing done poorly. When everything is really clean a visual inspection will work as well as the
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 846
Likes: 34
Jack, for mower engine, people just lap it on the head. So for the 6.0, is it correct that is just not a good option doing that way?
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,835
Likes: 3,124
From: Jersey Shore
It all should be done at a machine shop.
But even with that, there are some who will lap after machining. It's a debatable situation. Some machinists say lapping after machining creates more issues. I've done it with HiPo motors with success, but not using the standard lapping compound in a tube. You can get Clover lapping compound in a corse and fine grade, but even that company has grits down to 2,000 grit range.
At the end of the day, you have to check the seal by pulling a vacuum, and I've had discussions in the past when it's been said none of that truly matters because there are minute changes at the surfaces due to the temperatures and the seats don't stay where they are. So, in essence, they have to wear in place. Of course, lapping is wearing in the surfaces. But that's cold. It's a circular discussion.
A person can try lapping in valves, but you have to vacuum check and you should blue the parts and see how contact really is. That's a lot of work and just easier to get it all done in a shop.
But even with that, there are some who will lap after machining. It's a debatable situation. Some machinists say lapping after machining creates more issues. I've done it with HiPo motors with success, but not using the standard lapping compound in a tube. You can get Clover lapping compound in a corse and fine grade, but even that company has grits down to 2,000 grit range.
At the end of the day, you have to check the seal by pulling a vacuum, and I've had discussions in the past when it's been said none of that truly matters because there are minute changes at the surfaces due to the temperatures and the seats don't stay where they are. So, in essence, they have to wear in place. Of course, lapping is wearing in the surfaces. But that's cold. It's a circular discussion.
A person can try lapping in valves, but you have to vacuum check and you should blue the parts and see how contact really is. That's a lot of work and just easier to get it all done in a shop.
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