Need more light!
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 47
From: Eagle River, AK
On my last 97 F350, I put LED's in for reverse lights and it caused issued with the transmission for some reason. It was shifting crazy.
I put the regular bulbs back in and everything was fixed.
Now, keep in perspective, this was close to 6-7 years ago...
I put the regular bulbs back in and everything was fixed.
Now, keep in perspective, this was close to 6-7 years ago...
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
Was it just reverse lights or did you put led brake lights in too?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 47
From: Eagle River, AK
Good call, if I remember correctly, it was reverse and brake. Once I swapped them back, everything went back to normal.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
It was the brake lights being LED that gave the problem. Fords sends a constant voltage through the tail lights that are used for controlling the lock-up of the torque converter and transmission shifting. LED lights don't have a constant complete circuit when off so this is why that happens. Conventional bulbs allow this voltage to pass through the filaments without lighting the lights. It's a weird and honestly stupid way to do things but that is how it is done.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 47
From: Eagle River, AK
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 853
Likes: 62
From: Oxnard
Last July 2018 I came up on the forum and shared I had problems with erratic transmission shifting and cruise control would not engage, because I installed LED bulbs in my 1995 F-150 Eddie Bauer (5.0) third brake light. Was about 20 miles into my 340 mile trip, pulled into a McDonald's. Removed the two LED bulbs, then reinstalled the original incandescent bulbs (kept them inside the ash tray), and that eliminated the erratic transmission shifting problem and cruise control became fully operational. I've since had to replace one of the third brake light OEM plastic sockets, as it was melted pretty bad. I know the third brake incandescent bulbs generate allot of heat, and is essentially why I wanted to use LED bulbs, but can't. I deliberately shift into neutral and keep my foot off the brake pedal while stopped at traffic lights to reduce the heat build up in the third brake light sockets.
Over the years I've looked for good condition 1994-96 F-Series third brake light assemblies in my local junk yards and nearly every one of them have been deformed on top from heat.
Over the years I've looked for good condition 1994-96 F-Series third brake light assemblies in my local junk yards and nearly every one of them have been deformed on top from heat.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
Reverse lights are no problem. Brake lights will get you unless you put resistors in line and even then it's still kind of wonky. I ran LED bulbs with resistors for a year and then went back to just regular bulbs. I always carry a spare set.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
It was the brake lights being LED that gave the problem. Fords sends a constant voltage through the tail lights that are used for controlling the lock-up of the torque converter and transmission shifting. LED lights don't have a constant complete circuit when off so this is why that happens. Conventional bulbs allow this voltage to pass through the filaments without lighting the lights. It's a weird and honestly stupid way to do things but that is how it is done.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 414
Likes: 42
From: State of Confusion
Sorry I didn't notice your question before. My daily's got a gap between the bumper and the tow bar, so I stuck them in there. They're not in the way and should be safe from most things I'm likely to back the truck into. The frame had tiedown points back there already, so I bolted brackets to those. I'd probably put them under the bumper on a bricknose, too, maybe on either side of the tow hitch, so you've got something metal for the back of the truck to bottom out on before the lights would take the hit. My second choice would be on a lumber rack if you've got one of those, but then they're still in harm's way if you use the rack for its intended purpose. If you don't mind doing some cutting, there are light pod setups meant to be mounted through holes in bumpers as well.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
May need to be a different posting
Last July 2018 I came up on the forum and shared I had problems with erratic transmission shifting and cruise control would not engage, because I installed LED bulbs in my 1995 F-150 Eddie Bauer (5.0) third brake light. Was about 20 miles into my 340 mile trip, pulled into a McDonald's. Removed the two LED bulbs, then reinstalled the original incandescent bulbs (kept them inside the ash tray), and that eliminated the erratic transmission shifting problem and cruise control became fully operational. I've since had to replace one of the third brake light OEM plastic sockets, as it was melted pretty bad. I know the third brake incandescent bulbs generate allot of heat, and is essentially why I wanted to use LED bulbs, but can't. I deliberately shift into neutral and keep my foot off the brake pedal while stopped at traffic lights to reduce the heat build up in the third brake light sockets.
Over the years I've looked for good condition 1994-96 F-Series third brake light assemblies in my local junk yards and nearly every one of them have been deformed on top from heat.
Over the years I've looked for good condition 1994-96 F-Series third brake light assemblies in my local junk yards and nearly every one of them have been deformed on top from heat.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Auxiliary lights
Sorry I didn't notice your question before. My daily's got a gap between the bumper and the tow bar, so I stuck them in there. They're not in the way and should be safe from most things I'm likely to back the truck into. The frame had tiedown points back there already, so I bolted brackets to those. I'd probably put them under the bumper on a bricknose, too, maybe on either side of the tow hitch, so you've got something metal for the back of the truck to bottom out on before the lights would take the hit. My second choice would be on a lumber rack if you've got one of
those, but then they're still in harm's way if you use the rack for its intended purpose. If you don't mind doing some cutting,
there are light pod setups meant to be mounted through holes in bumpers as well.
those, but then they're still in harm's way if you use the rack for its intended purpose. If you don't mind doing some cutting,
there are light pod setups meant to be mounted through holes in bumpers as well.
Thanks for the info. I have ordered led backup lights to replace stock. Yet to recieve. I saw a truck in KC that had led’s between the tail gate and bumper mounted to the return flange of the bumper. The tailgate cleared them when it was open. They were very bright. But have not found. Owner bought truck like that. I will post how the LED backup lights work, once received. Thanks.