Memory Steer Issue
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Memory Steer Issue
Okay I need help! I have a bad memory steer issue going on with my 2005 excursion. I’ve done a lot of front end and suspension work recently and I can figure out what is causing the issue. It started with needing new ball joints and shocks so I did those. Then I put a 2 in leveling kit on with dual steering stabilizers. Then added a leaf to the rear to bring the rear back level with the front. I put 20 in 2018 f250 wheels with 34 in tires on and 2 in wheel spacers. Put new sway bar end links on the front to get rid of the clunking (which is now gone) I put a new power steering pump and steering gear box on which didn’t improve anything. Put a Hellwig sway bar on the rear, that got rid of the wander for the most part but still experience some bump steer. So I went back to the ball joints thinking they were the issue replaced the duralast ones with moogs and still no improvement. I just don’t know where to look anymore. Wondering if anyone has had similar issues with memory steer on theirs and any suggestions where to look.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
If by memory steer you mean you have to manually return the wheel to straight, that has to do with new ball joints and steering box. When I did the ball joints, I had a bit of that for a while and then again when I did the steering box. It will loosen up after a while. Mine is fine now and super tight but returns on its own. Be patient.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
From your suspension upgrade thread:
Am reading correctly you raised the rear ride height by adding a leaf to the stock spring pack ?
Running Bilstein “Ex” valved 5100 shocks ?
And then added a hellwig anti-roll bar ?
what are the exact alignment specs you are running with that combination ?
Am reading correctly you raised the rear ride height by adding a leaf to the stock spring pack ?
Running Bilstein “Ex” valved 5100 shocks ?
And then added a hellwig anti-roll bar ?
what are the exact alignment specs you are running with that combination ?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
From your suspension upgrade thread:
Am reading correctly you raised the rear ride height by adding a leaf to the stock spring pack ?
Running Bilstein “Ex” valved 5100 shocks ?
And then added a hellwig anti-roll bar ?
what are the exact alignment specs you are running with that combination ?
Am reading correctly you raised the rear ride height by adding a leaf to the stock spring pack ?
Running Bilstein “Ex” valved 5100 shocks ?
And then added a hellwig anti-roll bar ?
what are the exact alignment specs you are running with that combination ?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Yes I added a leaf to the rear pack and have Bilsteins not the 5100 but the yellow ones but they said they were good for 0-2 in and it only raised it 2 in. And then yes I added the rear sway bar. The wandering isn’t bad just the memory steer and bump steer. I know it’s not the ball joint cause I did a nearly 2000 mile trip to Hilton head and back and it didn’t improve at all but that was on the duralast ball joints
if you can post a picture of your current alignment specs I can likely tell you what your issues are.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Also, since I didn’t see you mention anything about a track bar or pitman arm I assume you did not alter these and both are stock. Is that correct ?
While i am verify a few assumptions, is your steering dampener new or the same one you have had all along ?
a few pics of your front end and these parts would help in a proper diagnosis
EDIT, you said “they” Said the yellow Bilsteins.....who is they ? And is the same they that installed your ball joints ?
While i am verify a few assumptions, is your steering dampener new or the same one you have had all along ?
a few pics of your front end and these parts would help in a proper diagnosis
EDIT, you said “they” Said the yellow Bilsteins.....who is they ? And is the same they that installed your ball joints ?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 129
Likes: 4
From: Oxford Florida
Ball joints are probably over-torqued. When i was a young pup first wrenching on cars, I swapped a set of ball joints on my F150. tightened the the ball joints until I could not tighten anymore. I may have even used a floor jack handle on the breaker bar. Had the truck aligned. I had the worse memory steer ever! Luckily my dad was able to set me straight and pass me a torque wrench and the correct torque specs. If I recall upper ball joints are 69lb-ft and lowers are 45 lb-ft and than final pull to 150 lb-ft.
My spindles being over-torqued did move with some effort. once I corrected the torque the spindles moved freely and smooth.
My spindles being over-torqued did move with some effort. once I corrected the torque the spindles moved freely and smooth.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Ball joints are probably over-torqued. When i was a young pup first wrenching on cars, I swapped a set of ball joints on my F150. tightened the the ball joints until I could not tighten anymore. I may have even used a floor jack handle on the breaker bar. Had the truck aligned. I had the worse memory steer ever! Luckily my dad was able to set me straight and pass me a torque wrench and the correct torque specs. If I recall upper ball joints are 69lb-ft and lowers are 45 lb-ft and than final pull to 150 lb-ft.
My spindles being over-torqued did move with some effort. once I corrected the torque the spindles moved freely and smooth.
My spindles being over-torqued did move with some effort. once I corrected the torque the spindles moved freely and smooth.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Also, since I didn’t see you mention anything about a track bar or pitman arm I assume you did not alter these and both are stock. Is that correct ?
While i am verify a few assumptions, is your steering dampener new or the same one you have had all along ?
a few pics of your front end and these parts would help in a proper diagnosis
EDIT, you said “they” Said the yellow Bilsteins.....who is they ? And is the same they that installed your ball joints ?
While i am verify a few assumptions, is your steering dampener new or the same one you have had all along ?
a few pics of your front end and these parts would help in a proper diagnosis
EDIT, you said “they” Said the yellow Bilsteins.....who is they ? And is the same they that installed your ball joints ?
Don’t know why the grease fitting is hitting my u joint knuckle???
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 129
Likes: 4
From: Oxford Florida
When I installed my recent lift kit, I went 10 lb-ft too high on the upper ball joint. (I adjusted torque wrench too high) Just 10 lb-ft was the difference between a nice smooth spindle movement and a spindle that moved with more effort. I used my late father's pristine snap on torque wrench that is calibrated once a year. I would check the torque again. if the spindle doesnt move smoothly with zero to little effort that would probably be your issues.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
i see a few issues but am out ruuning errands so i will type up a proper reply when i get to a computer in awhile..... hopefully you will have those alignment specs by then.
good news is all should be easily fixable
good news is all should be easily fixable
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
When I installed my recent lift kit, I went 10 lb-ft too high on the upper ball joint. (I adjusted torque wrench too high) Just 10 lb-ft was the difference between a nice smooth spindle movement and a spindle that moved with more effort. I used my late father's pristine snap on torque wrench that is calibrated once a year. I would check the torque again. if the spindle doesnt move smoothly with zero to little effort that would probably be your issues.
yup...... learned that in my aerospace days, torque wrench was required to be calibrated before each new task so sometimes once a day. obviosly overkill on a typical street vehicle but the lesson is the more critical parts required more attention to torque specs.
New User
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
May I make a suggestion? You mentioned you added wheel spacers. Most suspension setups,even from factory have a touch of bump steer, it's a pain to mitigate even with a solid axle. The further you push the center of the tire out past the pivot axis of the kingpin, you magnify any bump steer in the steering system. When we were trying to overcome factory bump steer on our racing quads (I know A-Arms, different animal) we developed a mini rack system to make the tie rods equal to the arm length which helped and then had to widen the front to get the desired width while having custom negative offset wheels made which tucked the kingpin axis almost center over the tire.
That way what little bump steer was present was not amplified by the wheel being away from the kingpin axis. I know a wider stance is preferable, but did you drive it before installing the spacers? If not it may be worth a shot, and a free one to see if that helps.
That way what little bump steer was present was not amplified by the wheel being away from the kingpin axis. I know a wider stance is preferable, but did you drive it before installing the spacers? If not it may be worth a shot, and a free one to see if that helps.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 816
Likes: 7
From: Prescott, AZ
Don't worry, it won't do that for long. In KTM motorcycle circles, that is known as "self-adjusting". It's a feature, not a bug.