When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
GP shorts out and draws high amps and welds the contacts of GPR and then over works the charging system
I think your alt is bad by the test you did. Volts is not going up when you have 12 on exciter.
Your GPR is bad from welded contacts.
Unplug the GP that's burt out. It can run fine with a few GPs out. Just smoky and rough till it warms up.
You need GPR, get a stancor one
new GPs only get ZD11 motor craft ones
UVCH can get oem pieces or upgrade to SD ones which can carry more current with out burning out.
just put in brand new motorcraft glowplugs when i did the valve cover harnesses 2 weeks ago... will they still be good or did the shorted out gpr most likely smoke my brand new glow plugs
Probably both. Here is a picture of the big disk inside the GPR. The disk is suppose to rotate on each cycle but sometimes it doesn't. You can see where it was arching and if bad enough it becomes an arc welder? The disk slams against the two large posts inside the relay making contact from the always hot power side to the glow plugs side..
Originally Posted by pstrokemike97
This was my connector after it fried. Id think this could have something to do with my gpr shorting out, or my gpr is the cause for this to short out��
Well went to napa and swapped out my alternator and put the new one on and it is still not charging, only reading 2-3 volts out of post when running. Batteries are reading 11.58 volts, pigtail is reading the same. Once again back to square 1. Gpr is disconnected as well
Well went to napa and swapped out my alternator and put the new one on and it is still not charging, only reading 2-3 volts out of post when running. Batteries are reading 11.58 volts, pigtail is reading the same. Once again back to square 1. Gpr is disconnected as well
12v coming out of the threaded post on back when connected, when i unbolted the wire and tested running there was only 2-3v max coming out of the post.
One other thing to try is run a wire from + side of battery to the exciter on the Alt but please put an inline 10 amp fuse. This will bypass the gauge, light etc and prove the alt is working. Then test output while running engine and GP is off.
I am thinking that you did see 12v on the exciter plug but once connected, there isn't enough current to excite the alt
One other thing to try is run a wire from + side of battery to the exciter on the Alt but please put an inline 10 amp fuse. This will bypass the gauge, light etc and prove the alt is working. Then test output while running engine and GP is off.
I am thinking that you did see 12v on the exciter plug but once connected, there isn't enough current to excite the alt
ok will try that, wouldnt a 10 amp fuse instantly blow when connected, i think the alt is 130 amp
Does the alternator light work in the dash? If I'm not mistaken, the light is part of the circuit. (ground? or maybe the exciter circut) If the light is burned out the alternator will not charge.
Does the alternator light work in the dash? If I'm not mistaken, the light is part of the circuit. (ground? or maybe the exciter circut) If the light is burned out the alternator will not charge.
Could a bad ground strap or 2 cause this, also wondering if i should try and get my money back from napa and get a motorcraft alternator, have a feeling im getting duds from napa
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
��
