Which Radiator?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 344
Likes: 7
Which Radiator?
When my mechanic removed the radiator, he said he is going to clean it up, but he doesn't think it would be good to put this old radiator back in the truck with this new engine.
Anyone have a suggestion on a good radiator for my '69 F100?
It'll have a 370 HP Blueprint Engine.
Should I go with a replacement type?
Copper?
Aluminum?
2 Row? 3 Row? 4 Row?
Anyone have a suggestion on a good radiator for my '69 F100?
It'll have a 370 HP Blueprint Engine.
Should I go with a replacement type?
Copper?
Aluminum?
2 Row? 3 Row? 4 Row?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 373
If the new engine is the same family as the previous engine then might see what NAPA has for stock replacement....I doubt you'll need anymore than that. I got one there for my '65 almost 13 years ago and am happy with it.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 344
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https://blueprintengines.com/product...block-bp3060ct
I'll check NAPA. Thanks!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
1967/72 F100/350: TWO different radiator supports, TWO different sized radiators, TWO different fan shrouds.
The radiator support used with the Super Cooling radiator has a larger opening radius.
The radiator support used with the Super Cooling radiator has a larger opening radius.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 14
From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
This article was mentioned in another thread, after reading it I would go with aluminum. If you are staying with a belt driven fan, make sure that you have a fan shroud: https://www.cgj.com/2013/06/27/alumi...-great-debate/
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 373
This article was mentioned in another thread, after reading it I would go with aluminum. If you are staying with a belt driven fan, make sure that you have a fan shroud: https://www.cgj.com/2013/06/27/alumi...-great-debate/
The benefits in the article aren't really applicable for the OP.
-Better cooling - maybe but is it necessary? Perhaps if driving in the southwest US. I went up a lot in cubes and HP and stay cool with the stock radiator (I added a shroud) even when towing a 5 ton fifth wheel.
-Lighter - Yeah, but probably not important in a truck unless drag racing.
- Corrosion resistance - Aluminum might be better in theory but not in real world application.
Shrouds are definitely a good idea if doing city driving or other slow traffic.
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 344
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This article was mentioned in another thread, after reading it I would go with aluminum. If you are staying with a belt driven fan, make sure that you have a fan shroud: https://www.cgj.com/2013/06/27/alumi...-great-debate/
However, it was written by a company who sells aluminum radiators, so I have to consider that too.
I just bought a new fan shroud before I knew I was going to be replacing the engine.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 344
Likes: 7
I read the article and will agree there are times when aluminum makes sense. In the OP's case I'd buy aluminum if I couldn't get a factory style radiator or the cost of the aluminum radiator was low enough to offset the effort to install it. Sometimes the total cost involved adds up for fabrication or buying parts that wouldn't be needed if staying stock.
The benefits in the article aren't really applicable for the OP.
-Better cooling - maybe but is it necessary? Perhaps if driving in the southwest US. I went up a lot in cubes and HP and stay cool with the stock radiator (I added a shroud) even when towing a 5 ton fifth wheel.
-Lighter - Yeah, but probably not important in a truck unless drag racing.
- Corrosion resistance - Aluminum might be better in theory but not in real world application.
Shrouds are definitely a good idea if doing city driving or other slow traffic.
The benefits in the article aren't really applicable for the OP.
-Better cooling - maybe but is it necessary? Perhaps if driving in the southwest US. I went up a lot in cubes and HP and stay cool with the stock radiator (I added a shroud) even when towing a 5 ton fifth wheel.
-Lighter - Yeah, but probably not important in a truck unless drag racing.
- Corrosion resistance - Aluminum might be better in theory but not in real world application.
Shrouds are definitely a good idea if doing city driving or other slow traffic.
LMC and others sell factory style radiators, so i can get one. I had pretty much settled on a standard factory replacement....until I read this article. Now my thinking is all muddy again :-)
I am in Middle TN and doubt if I'll ever drive this truck over 2 or 3 hours from my house. It does get warm here in the summer, but I'm not going to drive enough for this to be an issue.
I would change my coolant as required, and I would use distilled water.
I have a new fan shroud.
Weight is not an issue or concern.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 119
I would buy a aluminum replacement radiator. Rock Auto has good prices on them.
Aluminum cools better hands down. That is why all new cars come with aluminum radiators.
This is my go to link for the difference in aluminum vs copper. They explain it much better than I can: Aluminum vs copper
Edit: just saw Gary beat me to the link haha.
Aluminum cools better hands down. That is why all new cars come with aluminum radiators.
This is my go to link for the difference in aluminum vs copper. They explain it much better than I can: Aluminum vs copper
Edit: just saw Gary beat me to the link haha.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 373
BTW, sometimes newly built engines make extra heat the first few hundred miles. They probably shouldn't but might. Just don't panic if it runs warm until it loosens up a bit.
I wouldn't worry too much over the radiator decision or let the article muddy the water. You'll be okay with either. Years ago, I replaced my factory 352 with a 390. I was worried about engine cooling too so I read about aluminum radiators and electric fans and decided to stay stock. I towed a 5 ton trailer a few times through the Appalachians in the summer and never went above 220 with the stock radiator. Now I have an even bigger FE engine making over 500 hp...still the stock radiator and still stay around 180-190 unless the weather is 80 plus and I'm towing the trailer...then maybe hit 215.
Remember to check plugs to make sure your carb is not too rich or lean. Also remember to check timing and consider adjusting the curve once the engine is broken-in. Factory timing curves are okay but can benefit from optimizing. Wrong fuel mix and wrong timing will hurt engine cooling.
There is a "sweet spot" for engine temp. I like to see at least 180F to drive moisture out of the oil.
I wouldn't worry too much over the radiator decision or let the article muddy the water. You'll be okay with either. Years ago, I replaced my factory 352 with a 390. I was worried about engine cooling too so I read about aluminum radiators and electric fans and decided to stay stock. I towed a 5 ton trailer a few times through the Appalachians in the summer and never went above 220 with the stock radiator. Now I have an even bigger FE engine making over 500 hp...still the stock radiator and still stay around 180-190 unless the weather is 80 plus and I'm towing the trailer...then maybe hit 215.
Remember to check plugs to make sure your carb is not too rich or lean. Also remember to check timing and consider adjusting the curve once the engine is broken-in. Factory timing curves are okay but can benefit from optimizing. Wrong fuel mix and wrong timing will hurt engine cooling.
There is a "sweet spot" for engine temp. I like to see at least 180F to drive moisture out of the oil.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
I am surprised nobody mentioned to the OP he can do a drop in Champion aluminum 3 core radiator and use the stock shroud as it's a bolt in replacement. For the cost I have used the Champion on my last half a dozen builds and have had nothing but great success.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 22
From: Lacey, WA
Hi,
First off,..... As NumberDummy suggested,.... Did u ever figure out which Radiator Support you have in the truck? Super Cool rear mount or non Super Cool flush mount? This will drive which Radiator you will need to buy as they mount completely DIfferently.
Lee
First off,..... As NumberDummy suggested,.... Did u ever figure out which Radiator Support you have in the truck? Super Cool rear mount or non Super Cool flush mount? This will drive which Radiator you will need to buy as they mount completely DIfferently.
Lee
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 344
Likes: 7
Does that tell us which one it is?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 344
Likes: 7
BTW, sometimes newly built engines make extra heat the first few hundred miles. They probably shouldn't but might. Just don't panic if it runs warm until it loosens up a bit.
I wouldn't worry too much over the radiator decision or let the article muddy the water. You'll be okay with either. Years ago, I replaced my factory 352 with a 390. I was worried about engine cooling too so I read about aluminum radiators and electric fans and decided to stay stock. I towed a 5 ton trailer a few times through the Appalachians in the summer and never went above 220 with the stock radiator. Now I have an even bigger FE engine making over 500 hp...still the stock radiator and still stay around 180-190 unless the weather is 80 plus and I'm towing the trailer...then maybe hit 215.
Remember to check plugs to make sure your carb is not too rich or lean. Also remember to check timing and consider adjusting the curve once the engine is broken-in. Factory timing curves are okay but can benefit from optimizing. Wrong fuel mix and wrong timing will hurt engine cooling.
There is a "sweet spot" for engine temp. I like to see at least 180F to drive moisture out of the oil.
I wouldn't worry too much over the radiator decision or let the article muddy the water. You'll be okay with either. Years ago, I replaced my factory 352 with a 390. I was worried about engine cooling too so I read about aluminum radiators and electric fans and decided to stay stock. I towed a 5 ton trailer a few times through the Appalachians in the summer and never went above 220 with the stock radiator. Now I have an even bigger FE engine making over 500 hp...still the stock radiator and still stay around 180-190 unless the weather is 80 plus and I'm towing the trailer...then maybe hit 215.
Remember to check plugs to make sure your carb is not too rich or lean. Also remember to check timing and consider adjusting the curve once the engine is broken-in. Factory timing curves are okay but can benefit from optimizing. Wrong fuel mix and wrong timing will hurt engine cooling.
There is a "sweet spot" for engine temp. I like to see at least 180F to drive moisture out of the oil.