Replace headlight switch for brighter instrument lights
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2018
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From: Oregon
Replace headlight switch for brighter instrument lights
I know several people have posted about having dim instrument cluster lights, and taking apart their cluster to remove the "blue shields" that can get hazed over.
I also read some people say you can take out the headlight switch and attempt to clean the rheostat for a better connection.
However, has anyone just bothered to replace the headlight switch entirely? They are only $20 at the parts stores, maybe it's better to just get a new switch that is 100% clean?
Has anyone ever done that and have it brighten up their dash lights?
I also read some people say you can take out the headlight switch and attempt to clean the rheostat for a better connection.
However, has anyone just bothered to replace the headlight switch entirely? They are only $20 at the parts stores, maybe it's better to just get a new switch that is 100% clean?
Has anyone ever done that and have it brighten up their dash lights?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,309
Likes: 364
From: Kansas
it would be equivalent to giving your current one a good cleaning...BUT the original is most likely better quality than a new parts store switch....if that is the route you wanted to go I would look for a NOS switch...which may still require a quick cleaning....
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2018
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From: Oregon
Yeah, I was thinking the original switch is probably much higher quality materials anyway as well
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
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Changing over your headlights to a relay system can actually work to make your dash lights (and of course head lights) brighter.
When power for the headlights does not travel through the headlight switch and circuit, there is less voltage drop in the headlight switch feed and this can make for a better power source for your dash lights. This is only true when both the headlights are on and also if the power feed terminal is less than a perfect connection.
Testing for voltage at your headlight switch output would be a good start to see if there is any voltage drop in the first place.
As far as reproduction switches go- I bought one that was a dud, and then another that has worked great for several years.
When power for the headlights does not travel through the headlight switch and circuit, there is less voltage drop in the headlight switch feed and this can make for a better power source for your dash lights. This is only true when both the headlights are on and also if the power feed terminal is less than a perfect connection.
Testing for voltage at your headlight switch output would be a good start to see if there is any voltage drop in the first place.
As far as reproduction switches go- I bought one that was a dud, and then another that has worked great for several years.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,876
Likes: 4,116
From: Angier, NC
I have never heard of changing the head light switch for brighter dash lights.
I have heard of removing the shields and using LED bulbs.
My shields were not bad so I kept them and went with green LED's and they are brighter but I don't know how they were before the swap.
I will use head light relays, had them for years now, when the truck build gets that far.
Dave ----
I have heard of removing the shields and using LED bulbs.
My shields were not bad so I kept them and went with green LED's and they are brighter but I don't know how they were before the swap.
I will use head light relays, had them for years now, when the truck build gets that far.
Dave ----
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 71
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Brighter Instrument Lighting
I did 2 very simple things....removed the blue lenses from the housing and bought LED #194 white bulbs from Walmart. There's only two of them for the backlighting but my cluster now looks like it has fluorescent lighting at night. Couldn't believe it. If your housing is yellowed, paint it with bright white spray paint for better reflectivity.
I also put LED's in for the brights and turn signal bulbs. Went to the hardware store and bought some small metal open spacers that fit the turn signal indentions in the housing. That helped steer the light straight up to the green lenses, super bright.
I also put LED's in for the brights and turn signal bulbs. Went to the hardware store and bought some small metal open spacers that fit the turn signal indentions in the housing. That helped steer the light straight up to the green lenses, super bright.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 855
Likes: 56
From: Des Moines, Washington
If you have a smooth increase/decrease in light as you rotate the dimmer, it probably doesn't need cleaning or replacement. If it's jumpy, a spritz with DeoxIT might help. DeoxIT is handy to have around, it's not quite the miracle the can makes it out to be but it's fixed many an iffy connection for me.
My dash lights were so dim that I may have driven with the dome light on just to see how fast I was going
I installed natural white LEDs from SuperBright and the difference is amazing! They are visible at dusk and yet not too bright on a moonless night.
Michael
My dash lights were so dim that I may have driven with the dome light on just to see how fast I was going
I installed natural white LEDs from SuperBright and the difference is amazing! They are visible at dusk and yet not too bright on a moonless night.Michael
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2018
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From: Oregon
I did 2 very simple things....removed the blue lenses from the housing and bought LED #194 white bulbs from Walmart. There's only two of them for the backlighting but my cluster now looks like it has fluorescent lighting at night. Couldn't believe it. If your housing is yellowed, paint it with bright white spray paint for better reflectivity.
I also put LED's in for the brights and turn signal bulbs. Went to the hardware store and bought some small metal open spacers that fit the turn signal indentions in the housing. That helped steer the light straight up to the green lenses, super bright.
I also put LED's in for the brights and turn signal bulbs. Went to the hardware store and bought some small metal open spacers that fit the turn signal indentions in the housing. That helped steer the light straight up to the green lenses, super bright.
What i find interesting is even if I made the instrument panel brighter, the PRNDL and other lights are still going to seem dim anyway.
And yep my switch is "jumpy" as in when you turn it the light brightness jumps around. Safe to spray some electric contact cleaner down in there?
Anyway, thanks for the suggestions!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 71
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Instrument Cluster Lighting 1978 F150 LED
Here's a couple of pictures of what mine looks like at night.
Notice the HVAC panel is still blue, but very bright. The blue color is made into the plastic housing. It has a white LED bulb in it that really woke it up. The headlamp/wiper switch lamp is also an LED bulb, but this is not a #194. I think it is a #53. I did remove the blue filter from the this one too, just above the ***** on the back side of the instrument bezel.
I have not replaced the bulb in the column gearshift indicator yet because you have to remove the turn signal switch to get to it. My aftermarket temp gauge to the left even has an LED in it.
The white glare you see at the top right corner of the cluster is where the paint on the inside of the housing has worn though and is letting some light seep past where it should. I need to take it apart and paint that spot.
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 710
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From: Oregon
Is it still dimmable with your LED lights? I think I read that if you replace everything with LED it is no longer dimmable? I found the LED lights at Walmart today but didn't buy them yet , thanks for the pictures, it helps me know what to expect!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 855
Likes: 56
From: Des Moines, Washington
The method the dimmer in our truck uses is a rheostat, it just reduces the voltage to the lamp through resistance. LED's that don't have electronics in them will work just fine. I don't think you'll find electronics in a 193 unless it's a CAN buss and maybe not even then since they usually add a resistor in parallel with the lamp. Where you might run into trouble with dimming instrument lamps is if the vehicle uses PWM rather than a rheostat. I didn't run into trouble with the SuperBright 74's installed in the Maxima which I assume uses PWM since it's an up/down rocker instead of a ****.
Michael
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
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And if staying with incandescents in your gauge cluster, don't use 194s. They produce only two lumens. The ones you want (IIRC) are 168s which look identical, but produce three lumens! It makes a noticeable difference.
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