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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Needing some help with hard hot start

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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 10:50 PM
  #1  
NashT001's Avatar
NashT001
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Needing some help with hard hot start

Hey all, new here and looking for some expirenced insight.
Truck: 1995 F150 351W 2wd Auto.
Fresh Top End job- only mod GT40 Lightning Heads.

The problem: cranks up perfect when cold but has a long lag time when cranking hot. Cant tell if it makes a difference feathering the pedal or just holding down the switch till she busts off.
Note: I have had this issue since I purchased the truck 2 years ago so it is not related to the fresh top end job.

I have searched all over the forums here and others for insights to this issue.

What I have replaced is literally everything now, and all Motorcraft. To be detailed:
  • Coolant sensor- both
  • Ignition switch module
  • Ignition module on fender (had grey one and per forums installed black one)
  • TPS Sensor and calibrated to 0.98
  • Idle Air Control
  • New complete Spectra Disy
  • Complete Tune up including coil/ ignitor
  • Intake Air Temp (BWD unable to find Ford)
  • Fuel Pres Regulator & Filter & Injectors
  • New Magnaflow y-pipe w/ cat and all exhaust (to rule out a stopped up cat)
  • Lastly have run 10 & 12 degrees on timing with no discernable difference.

I have tested and tested everything guys, and everthing was replaced when I did the motor work.
Again I had this issue before the motor work and before switching to the Black Ignition Module (per write-ups all over the internet regarding grey vs black)

Now lastly: I just did a fuel pressure test again, to see if anything has changed. (Dual Tank)
My results on both pumps: When Hot
  • Turning key to on position pressure climbs to about 20, cycle it once more and climbs to 30. Turned to start and busted off after a few seconds but not immediately.
  • Running Pressure between 28/30
  • Openning throttle while running 1/4 turn all the way to wide open the gauge needle drops about 5 psi momentarily then picks up back to 28/30. Have not seen a higher pressure than 30 on any loads/ throttle openings.
  • Remove regulator vac line gauge goes to 40 psi. Reatched vac line gauge stayed at 40 psi with load or idle- odly.
  • Took gauge off and repeated from start with the exception of the vac line test and all same results, psi 28/30.

Now to me it seems like both fuel pumps are weak but I really want an experienced conclusion or second opinion. The motorcraft pumps are very pricey, and it just baffles me that both pumps/ tanks have the exact same readings. I dunno guys maybe im just over thinking it, but any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I thank you in advance and apologize for the novel, best regards.
Nash
 
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Old Apr 3, 2019 | 07:17 AM
  #2  
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oldproudvet
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Is sure sounds like you have no fuel at the injectors when the engine is warm. Fuel pumps will not come on with a warm engine, fuel pressure is held by the fuel regulator on the outlet side and fuel pump check valves on the inlet side. What I did to verify a similar problem after to many no starts at the gas pumps was to run a wire from the fuel pump relay to a momentary push button (like a door bell) switch. By holding it down for a second while cranking, it'd pop right off. That wire just runs from the hot side of the relay directly to the pump, bypassing the "control" circuitry. I ran a fuel pressure gauge into the cab with stainless line, right off the test port on the fuel rail. After that, I really don't recall the fix, as it was at least 15 years ago, but it was frustrating for a while
 
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