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Do you think some cold gas like nitrogen, either or something better shot down the horn wire hole might contract the metal enough to make a difference?
How is applying heat to the bolt destroying the wheel? WoW.......carry on.
Collateral damage from an unsteady hand with an open flame, and I think a heat gun would be even worse. But I suppose I could drape soaked welding blankets over the dash and around the wheel.
Do you think some cold gas like nitrogen, either or something better shot down the horn wire hole might contract the metal enough to make a difference?
Yes. Interesting concept. I've packed bearing cups in dry ice (CO²) to shrink them for installation. If I had a CO² fire extinguisher I'd try that.
Incidentally, that's an old school technique used to chill beer - put a bunch of cans in a bucket and shoot them with a CO² fire extinguisher. Works great.
Put yours knees behind the wheel and use them to push wheel towards you, with the nut screwed on the shaft flush with end give a good solid rap or two with a brass drift/punch and hammer on the end of the shaft. The shock of driving the shaft down while pushing the wheel up with your knees will pop it right off. The nut keeps you from messing up the threads and keeps your teeth in your mouth when it breaks free.
All you need to do is drill and tap 2 holes for a puller, like the later wheels had right from Ford. Then you can pull it properly, with a conventional steering wheel puller.
Chuck
All you need to do is drill and tap 2 holes for a puller, like the later wheels had right from Ford. Then you can pull it properly, with a conventional steering wheel puller.
Chuck
I think I'm running out of options. Too close quarters to apply any heat. I have the puller as tight as I can get it without using an impact wrench. This is unreal. Never had this much difficulty.
Smack the top of the puller screw with it under pressure. If no go, I'd give it a rattle with the impact, not enough to hurt anything, just enough to see if it works. If it doesn't work than heat needs to be applied. Make a heat dam using a tin can fitted inside the hub to keep from torching the wheel. Get it warmed up some, re-install the puller and work it.
I was going to suggest the same as Lew but make sure to use a brass hammer or at least a brass drift, a hardened hammer face against that puller shaft could mushroom the puller shaft or worse yet send a piece of metal flying (wear eye protection either way).
I think at this point some heat is in order. I'd use a small torch to heat the bolt pushing on the shaft. That will transfer heat into the shaft and surrounding hub. Once it's hot I'd gently smack on the top of the puller screw head to scare things into submission. Go easy with the hammer so as not to compromise the bearings and races in the steering box. Might try a few heat cycles with some penetrant in between. I always use anti seize on stuff like this when reinstalling. Good luck!
I did smack it sharply with my 3# brass hammer. I'll try a few "rattles" and hopefully it won't pull the bolts out, then heat. Still trying to preserve the wheel, but that may not happen now. New repop wheels are $200.
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