I took the one and only key with me today to have it duplicated after work.
I lost the one and only key before i was able to get another key.
I need to move the truck by Sunday because my landlord was having work done and i moved it in another person's driveway and they will be returning sometime Sunday.
Can I drill out the tumblers and be able to unlock the steering and hopefully start it.
I tried searching the forum but i got information for everything except lost keys

1980 F350 Ranger XLT AKA Crystal

 

I have an old one laying around, I'll see if it's possible. Sounds doable. Maybe a more simple solution. Ive got a spare column laying around. I'll go check it now and see what I can figure out.

 

Thanks that will help alot

 

I just demolished the old key cylinders from both trucks. Should have swapped them to the messed up shift collar as I did moderate damage to the one I planned on using in my truck. Learned quite a bit. Before I recommend a plan of attack I want to ask if you have ever replaced a lock cylinder? I'm still in the shop scraping aluminum shavings out of my beard. Will tell all when I get back in the house.

 

 

Pull steering wheel off and there is a little plunger you push in and lock assy comes out then can start with screw driver .

 

That only works if the cylinder is unlocked. Even if you drill the detent out. Actuator rod is locked into the slot in the locked position, will not come out

 

too late to run the compressor, got a car vacuum, may try and give it a flowjob

 

DISCLAIMER! I AM NEITHER A LOCK WIZARD NOR A KEY GENIUS, but I did tear up some stuff in a semi-controlled environment.


Lot of risk of damage attempting to drill. I took out both used lock cylinders on hand. I think if I tried again I could get it exactly right. But all I have left now is the new one going in my truck. I have decided there are multiple ways the tackle this. Before I describe what I did and how I best think it should be approached I am going to recommend you try and find the missing key. I also recommend you call a locksmith and see what they would charge to do it for you. Then you can weigh the cost of a locksmith against the risk of life and limb.

The most fun method I have considered, would require studying wiring diagrams and creating a pin jumper to plug into the connector that goes to the ignition switch. And two toggle switches, one for the run and one two switch on and off for the start. Not the best method, ignore this one.(Buuut, if anyone is curious, I will make said jumper, and test it out when I get my truck back together.)

I think the simplest method, considering you are on a time crunch would be to unbolt the ignition switch from the column and manually actuate the switch. There is a bit of risk here. The switch does not come back from the start position automatically. Second concern is it is possible to make contact with a pin in the switch, possible to get a shock, so insulated screwdriver would be best. Or I'd recommend unhooking the battery, setting the switch to the run position, reconnecting the battery, then using said insulated screwdriver jumper the contacts on the starter solenoid to start the truck. To shut the truck back off you'd have to pull back on the switch, or unhook the battery.
EDIT - Will have to figure out how to unlock the wheel for this to work.

As far as drilling out the lock cylinder. Before you do make sure you have a replacement cylinder on hand in case its unsuccessful. That way you can carefully drill until it comes out and you can replace it. It is possible to drill it out enough to remove it without having to pull the steering wheel. But just in case you will need to beg, borrow, or steal(buy, borrow, rent) a steering wheel puller if you don't own one. You will also need a can of compressed air on hand and some picks, to remove chips from the key slot. Also a small telescopic magnet will also be useful, the smaller(in diameter), the better. I would recommend a can of carb and choke or brake kleen to get the old grease out once the cylinder is removed. Also, lube to install the new one. I'd recommend a burr(rotary file), round or straight fluted just slightly thicker than the key and long enough to reach the full depth of the key. If that's not possible then you will need a 3/8" drill bit and I recommend a step drill. Step drill isn't necessary but I think it will make it easier. Going to need assorted pliers, a hammer(small dead-blow or rubber mallet preferred) and a good stout bladed screwdriver. If using a cordless drill be sure and have two good hot batteries on hand.

EDIT: You will also need a Phillips screwdriver to pull the cover from the steering wheel and to remove the signal switch, as well as a 15/16" socket(mine was) to remove the nut from the steering wheel. I used this steering wheel puller https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...w80651/4614538 I used the coarse threaded bolts, 12mm wrench fit the heads good. And the center bolt(does the pushing) I used a 5/8" wrench for it. It may be different in your case, so having a good set of sockets, both metric and standard is advisable, as well as a couple of different screwdrivers, especially some you don't mind abusing(using as a chisel/prybar and jumpering electrical connections with, although it would probably be best to use one side of a set of jumper cables to short the started solenoid, that way you could just give it a little "kiss").

I may add more to that list when I go back out and survey the damage again. Now going to discuss how my adventure went.

To start, I broke an 1/8" and 1/4" drill bit as well as a beefy set of needle nose pliers. The winged bezel that surrounds the key has very little meat holding it, will most likely break off. I recommend "brassing off" your drill bit. That is, lightly dull the cutting edge with a stone to keep it from wanting to pull itself into the material.

The best bet, in my humble opinion is to use a small round burr a little thicker than the key. Plunge directly into the center of the key slot until you are below the bezel to try and keep it from breaking off. Then work the burr to the outside of the key slot(towards the wings on the bezel) and work down one side at a time. The goal here is to open the holes the pins are in just enough for them to pop out. They are beveled on the key side so they don't come all the way out. The intent is to open the holes just enough for the springs to pop the pins out. The pins are hardened and very difficult to drill through(I tried drilling straight down just inside the wings but the first pin caused the drill to shoot off the mark into the center of the key slot). They are also magnetic so use a combination of picks, compressed air, and the magnet to remove them as they come out. the springs will also come out, although you may have to persuade them with the magnet and pick if they don't come all the way out of the hole. Do one side then the other. Work each pin slot one at a time, and take your time doing it. If possible retain the pins and springs, that way you can verify you have them all. You should have an even number of both and in multiples of two. I didn't pay enough attention to see if they used a tumbler and a shear pin. I assume they did. So you should have twice as many pins as springs. Also didn't pay enough attention to see if the shear pins(if used) were brass or steel. But if the spring is out so are all the pins. Once you think you have all the pins out, and you worked carefully, you should be able to insert the screwdriver and gently try and turn the cylinder. It will turn if all the pins are out, but may be rough, grind and possibly even bind if a spring is still in the hole.

If the burr isn't an option, then we're going to drill it out. This is the greater risk, and messier. I recommend starting directly in the center of the key slot and use a step drill to start the hole as on center as possible to get a 3/8" hole through the bezel to start a 3/8" twist drill on center. The bezel with probably break off. Not a big deal. Use the step drill again if necessary to to start the twist drill on center. If you don't have a step drill, no sweat, and good luck! If you get too far off center, or go in at too steep of an angle you risk damaging the shift collar as well as the bolted on components. But if you can carefully drill straight through the center you should be able to open up the pin slots as described in the burr method. Go slow, check the hole often and clean out using air, picks, magnet. Same thing here, once the pins are out she should be good to go. You may be able to get a hold of enough meat to turn her over. If too damage, jam the screwdriver in there either by hand or with a few solid hammer taps and try it. If it offers a lot of resistance then the pins aren't all out. Keep working at it until you have it free.

In case drilling doesn't work to unlock the cylinder you are going to need to very very carefully drill it out and remove it in chunks This method has the most risk of damage. If you see brass in the bottom of the hole do not drill any deeper! You are just starting to damage the mechanism that turns the rotary motion of the key into linear motion to actuate the switch. You will have to drill out enough to break the pin on the back of the cylinder loose to be able to pull the cylinder out. If your 3/8" hole is on center use a 1/2" bit to make it a little bigger and you should be in good shape. You will also need to drill out the retention pin to avoid having to pull the steering wheel. It's located straight in, directly between the wings on the bezel face on the dash side with the wings oriented vertically(locked position). It is possible to drill in at an angle towards it, very carefully. Otherwise you will have to pull the steering wheel and remove the signal switch to be able to CAREFULLY drill it out with a small drill bit from the backside.

If drilling the pins out with either method was successful I'd recommend going ahead and pulling the steering wheel and replacing it. You won't need to pull the signal switch if you were able to successfully unlock the cylinder. All you will need to do is use a pick to depress the detent pin with the cylinder in the run or start position, can't remember if it had to be all the way in the run position. Do this with the battery unhooked. Probably wise to use the parking brake as well. Dealer's choice. Whether you got it unlocked and are changing the cylinders out, or you had to drill it out a piece at a time, use your favorite libation to clean all the old grease out. Make sure you get all the shavings out of the hole. Will need to use the picks, compressed air, and a solvent to achieve this, bit of shop rag on the end of a screwdriver wouldn't hurt either. Lube the new one up before installation. I think some of the guys around here have recommended a silicone based lubricant, can't remember exactly. But whatever you have is better than nothing, but you may have to pull the cylinder back out in the future to clean out and replace the lubricant if it hardens and causes the cylinder to stick or bind.

If you need more clarification on any part of any method, or pictures, let me know. And if anyone knows of a better method, I'm all ears.


P.S. I think I should have a catch phrase, like "That's the way the cookie crumbles." Or "Big wheels, keep on truckin'." I'm open to suggestions.

 

If the door lock cylinders match the ignition switch cylinder key, remove one of them, take it to a lock shop, the locksmith will cut you a new key.

Pic: 21984 lock cylinder retained to the door with 22023 clip, retained to 22134 lock rod with 21952 nylon clip.

 

I approve this method. Didn't know you could do that. Great suggestion!

 

People have been doing this since door lock cylinders were first installed in the 19teens. Originally, there was only one lock cylinder and it was on the right side.

People locked the left door from the inside, then slid across the front seat and exited the right door.

 

I have cut many a house key, and repinned a few locks back when I was doing maintenance on rental properties, but I've not got any experience with automotive keys. Going to have to do some reading on that now, seems like working backwards to cut a key would be tedious.

Also, while we're talking about keys and lock cylinders, reminded me I was going to ask you about shift collars for the 80-86 year range. Best I can tell they are impossible to find, no one makes them. It is possible to get one(aftermarket) for a 79 to function, although I'll have to monkey with the one I've got to see if I can alter it enough to get the shift lever to detent. I'm hoping, but wanted to know if you knew, ford releases the designs/molds/tooling after a set number of years, so oem parts can be manufactured again. Or if that is just hit and miss?

 

EOTZ-7228-D .. Shift Collar-Use with 3 M/T / Obsolete ~ Not repro'd AFAIK

1980/86 F100/250; 1980/87 E100/350. No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.

Someone here used one from a 1978/79 F100/250 & E100/350 3 M/T (D9TZ-7228-C), modifying it to work. It's also obsolete, but there are 6 available NOS .. I don't know if it's repro'd.

The A/T collars are different.

 

I forget to specify a/t. I got one for a 79 from lmc after hearing on here that it was possible to modify. Couldn't find any info on how to do it. I got it functional, but didn't do a thread as I wasn't a member here yet. I fooled with it for three hours before I got it to work. But shift lever doesn't lock into position, pretty much free wheels. Had to cut several inches off the collar to get it to fit. Will eventually remove it and see what it takes to make it completely functional. I'm thinking it just needs to be chopped a little more.