$1000 Gamble, Low on power and leaking diesel from the front of the engine
#16
I have no paid for a mechanic in almost 30 years, but maybe is about time to start, I just want to make sure the engine or something big is not FUBAR, and then I can buy it, I'm happy to fix things, hell i love fixing stuff, i just wish I know more...
Well I have until 9am tomorrow to make out my mind, hopefully i learn a lot tonight..
Hey you Alaskan pilots had more "Spherical pairs" that most humans, thanks for all the help...
Well I have until 9am tomorrow to make out my mind, hopefully i learn a lot tonight..
Hey you Alaskan pilots had more "Spherical pairs" that most humans, thanks for all the help...
#17
im with you there I’d rather do all the work myself. Unfortunately I had to pay a mechanic recently to do my transmission for me because I’m on the road and didn’t have a place to do it. I am really curious though where it’s leaking. I went and looked over my engine and I can’t really find anything on the passenger side that would leak fuel unless it’s right up at the top. Here’s mine on the passenger side. Anything look familiar to your leaking part?
yes that is the area, about 13-14 down from the pulley with the green belt (sorry try to give you guys coordinates, the pipe (that feels metal because i was not able to compress it, was really stuck to the metal (but nobody braces copper tubes to cast iron, so I'm sure I'm mistaking...
Actually the only thing i need to know is if is a "Terminal" problem (Bend valve, warp head, etc) or something "simple" (even if is really hard to do thanks for the lack of space..)
Do a take the Gamble or better not...!?!?
#18
Wow, what a Gesture, you did not need to do that, but feel marvelous
yes that is the area, about 13-14 down from the pulley with the green belt (sorry try to give you guys coordinates, the pipe (that feels metal because i was not able to compress it, was really stuck to the metal (but nobody braces copper tubes to cast iron, so I'm sure I'm mistaking...
Actually the only thing i need to know is if is a "Terminal" problem (Bend valve, warp head, etc) or something "simple" (even if is really hard to do thanks for the lack of space..)
Do a take the Gamble or better not...!?!?
yes that is the area, about 13-14 down from the pulley with the green belt (sorry try to give you guys coordinates, the pipe (that feels metal because i was not able to compress it, was really stuck to the metal (but nobody braces copper tubes to cast iron, so I'm sure I'm mistaking...
Actually the only thing i need to know is if is a "Terminal" problem (Bend valve, warp head, etc) or something "simple" (even if is really hard to do thanks for the lack of space..)
Do a take the Gamble or better not...!?!?
#20
You know I wonder if maybe it’s the drain for the fuel bowl. Someone else might be able to chime in....I don’t remember where mine drains but I think part of mine is missing. If that’s what’s leaking that will only take you a couple hours to fix as it’s just rebuilding the bowl. I kind of doubt you have a terminal problem. Mines had a vibrate and fixing my fuel bowl, getting rid of the bad filters in the tank and running some stiction eliminator mines almost gone. Honestly for $3000 That’s not bad. I had a friend Pay I think $6500 for a quigly 4x4 converted van like that one but I don’t think it had a 7.3. If it were me I would do it can’t beat a 7.3 family vehicle.
again, as long is something like changing filters even if is inside the tank, I'm game for it...
Oh and She is only a Thousand dollars
But i have start with $500 motorcycles that end up costing me $10.000 fixing them and they still suck (Super high performance bikes at the edge of destruction)
#21
So im guessing you are referring to the fuel bowl drain line that goes from the fuel filter on top of the engine, down behind the accessory bracketry, and has a metal tube that just ends nearly 8 inches above the tie rod on the passenger side of the front of the engine?
so I guess the problem is somewhere else..
#22
So im guessing you are referring to the fuel bowl drain line that goes from the fuel filter on top of the engine, down behind the accessory bracketry, and has a metal tube that just ends nearly 8 inches above the tie rod on the passenger side of the front of the engine?
That was my thinking a "Over flow" pipe, but why will that generate so much trouble...??
again, as long is something like changing filters even if is inside the tank, I'm game for it...
Oh and She is only a Thousand dollars
But i have start with $500 motorcycles that end up costing me $10.000 fixing them and they still suck (Super high performance bikes at the edge of destruction)
again, as long is something like changing filters even if is inside the tank, I'm game for it...
Oh and She is only a Thousand dollars
But i have start with $500 motorcycles that end up costing me $10.000 fixing them and they still suck (Super high performance bikes at the edge of destruction)
#23
Thats what I was thinking. Mines half gone by the looks of it. Wouldn’t that be the only thing located on the passenger side with fuel in it?
If it’s only the fuel drain it’s also pressurized because it’s inside the bowl but it’s only 3-4 o rings inside it. Maybe $30 for all the o rings to rebuild the bowl? I mean that’s still a good deal even if you had to put o rings and injectors in it. Highly doubt you’d have to do injectors but worst case.
If it’s only the fuel drain it’s also pressurized because it’s inside the bowl but it’s only 3-4 o rings inside it. Maybe $30 for all the o rings to rebuild the bowl? I mean that’s still a good deal even if you had to put o rings and injectors in it. Highly doubt you’d have to do injectors but worst case.
my garden is not to big but if you need a place to land in Minneapolis let me know...
#24
Your welcome. Thanks! Don’t think we will make it back up to that part of the country this year but thanks for the offer! Currently in AR and headed to KA, MT and finally back to our AK by next weekend.
#25
Theres a lot of "simple" (elbow grease required, knowledge needed) / "cheap" ( $200 or less ) things that could cause the rough idle.
Drain valve Oring kit for the fuel bowl can fix the leak, full kit is around $30
Conversely it could be injectors, for around $1,800 and 16 hours of your time, then possibly cups too once you get in that far, add another 20 hrs of time for removal/surgical cleaning/reinstall and a minimum of 24 hrs for cure time.
If you get it there's pretty much nothing that the group here can't talk you thru and help you figure out on the knowledge side. $$$ and wrenching and possible frustration would be on your end to weigh your decision
At minimum if you decide to get it, 1st, do the oil cap upside down compression test. With the engine running turn the oil cap upside down on the fill pipe. It should just vibrate around there. If it blows off there is bad compression, ring blowby, and a rebuild is in order
Drain valve Oring kit for the fuel bowl can fix the leak, full kit is around $30
Conversely it could be injectors, for around $1,800 and 16 hours of your time, then possibly cups too once you get in that far, add another 20 hrs of time for removal/surgical cleaning/reinstall and a minimum of 24 hrs for cure time.
If you get it there's pretty much nothing that the group here can't talk you thru and help you figure out on the knowledge side. $$$ and wrenching and possible frustration would be on your end to weigh your decision
At minimum if you decide to get it, 1st, do the oil cap upside down compression test. With the engine running turn the oil cap upside down on the fill pipe. It should just vibrate around there. If it blows off there is bad compression, ring blowby, and a rebuild is in order
#26
I have been all over alaska on my motorcycles and I have seeing what the pilots do, man is like Trial riding, the way they can land with those super Stall planes..
#27
Theres a lot of "simple" (elbow grease required, knowledge needed) / "cheap" ( $200 or less ) things that could cause the rough idle.
Drain valve Oring kit for the fuel bowl can fix the leak, full kit is around $30
Conversely it could be injectors, for around $1,800 and 16 hours of your time, then possibly cups too once you get in that far, add another 20 hrs of time for removal/surgical cleaning/reinstall and a minimum of 24 hrs for cure time.
If you get it there's pretty much nothing that the group here can't talk you thru and help you figure out on the knowledge side. $$$ and wrenching and possible frustration would be on your end to weigh your decision
Drain valve Oring kit for the fuel bowl can fix the leak, full kit is around $30
Conversely it could be injectors, for around $1,800 and 16 hours of your time, then possibly cups too once you get in that far, add another 20 hrs of time for removal/surgical cleaning/reinstall and a minimum of 24 hrs for cure time.
If you get it there's pretty much nothing that the group here can't talk you thru and help you figure out on the knowledge side. $$$ and wrenching and possible frustration would be on your end to weigh your decision
About the work hours, the inside of this van is massive and if it had a "Pointy nose" like the F trucks, will be to long to drive..
Thanks for all the advice, if you guys ever need help about adventure bikes or bicycles let me know..
Oh i have read a lot about "Float delete" is that applicable to the motor too...????
#28
Nice if you ever come back up let me know we are always open for visitors. We fly planes and work on them everyday at our base and we live out in the mountains off the Glen Hwy.
#29
Really fun time but I'm much to old to spend a 100 days a year on a tent, specially up there..
#30