Hello all, I am hoping you guys (and gals?) can point me in the right direction. My truck will not crank at the key, as though the shift lever was in other than park or neutral. I had just power-washed it, like many times before and moved it to dry it inside of a garage and when I went to get it out it would not start. The starter or solenoid do not make any kind of noise. As far as engine mods, I installed the Banks Big Hoss bundle about 5-6 years ago and have not had any kind of engine issues. Other than one or two 2500 mile round trips, it probably gets 1000 local miles per year. Close to 104k miles on the clock.
This is what I have done so far, in order: checked fuses #32 and 22, they were ok. Swapped the starter relay with a couple of other ones from the panel. I read someone had tapped the relays with a screwdriver handle while trying to start it. Also wiggled various wire bundles while also trying to start it. Scanned it, I get pending codes P0401 and P0299, probably relating to the numerous attempts to start it? None of this worked so I disconnected the yellow with blue trace solenoid wire and touched the positive battery post with the key on and it started right up. That is where I am at. I would appreciate any help I can get to get to the bottom of this.
Thank you.

 

F32 powers the PCM. If the engine started and ran when the starter circuit was bypassed, the fuse has to be supplying power to the PCM. F22 is for the radio. No idea why you'd check it.
P0401 is an EGR system fault and is unrelated to any starting function. P0299 does not appear in the 2006 SD PCED.

Assuming a gasoline engine and automatic transmission, neither of which were explicitly stated:

1. Swap Starter Relay with an identical, non-critical relay and retest.
2. Check fuses F32 and F113 in the CJB. If both "look" good, verify that F113 is ALWAYS HOT and that F32 is HOT IN START. Use a meter or test lamp on the fuses' test points.

Report explicit test results.

 

projectSHO89, thank you for the reply. I had checked F32 prior to bypassing the starter circuit. I must have written 22 instead of 32. As for the codes, I was not concerned they had anything to do with the no-start problem but I was just noting what the scanner read. My truck has a diesel engine. I am under the impression that Super Duty (SD) meant it was a Diesel vehicle. Is that not so? It does have an automatic trans. The relays I swapped around from the panel were identical. Thing is, I was just looking at the owners manual to look up the location of the starter relay (307) and now, I am not sure if that is the one I swapped the others into. I will make sure tomorrow. The truck is stored at work so can't check now.

"Check fuses F32 and F113 in the CJB . If both "look" good, verify that F113 is ALWAYS HOT and that F32 is HOT IN START. Use a meter or test lamp on the fuses' test points" Will check as indicated also. This is looking promising.

Again, thank you very much.

 

It is not. "Super Duty" is the branding for the heavier duty trucks regardless of engine or transmission. Basically anything bigger than the F150 but smaller than the larger commercial-duty trucks.

 

projectSHO89, good to know. Perhaps I was confusing "Powerstroke" with SD?
In any case, I tested the 113 and 32 fuses. 113 is indeed always hot on both sides. However, I was testing it with a Load Pro unit and when I pressed the load button, the 12.47 voltage dropped to 1.7v, same on both sides. I wasn't sure about the screw I was using for ground and I did not have a wire long enough to connect it to the (-) battery side to make absolutely sure about the voltage drop. The power on fuse 32 with the key ON only dropped .1 of a volt using the same tool and ground point. Chances are, there is indeed a problem with the circuit (starter) on F113, although I will get a longer wire to re-check. I probably will not get a different result but is worth a shot. Is there a known failure point in this circuit?
Thank you.

 

Sounds reasonable. I have enough problems with my own confusions so I'm not qualified to comment on another's.
Let's get a re-test that you have confidence in.
I'm not aware of any. F113 is fed off a common ALWAYS HOT bus inside the fusebox. If there were a problem with the wiring outside the fusebox, multiple additional circuits would be affected and there has been no indication offered that such might be the case.

I'd pull the fuse and do a close visual exam of the contact pins for F113 looking for corrosion or spread pins. If no visual fault is evident, then use a fused jumper (or power probe) to inject battery voltage into the load-side pins of the F133 socket and retest starter operation. If it works normally, then an internal fault in the fusebox.

 

projectSHO89:

"Let's get a re-test that you have confidence in." I used a jumper cable connected to the neg bat post. Checked the resistance at the end. None to speak of and used it to check the voltage drop at the F113, on both pins by removing the plastic cap and this time there was no significant voltage drop (.2v drop) I removed the fuse and looked as good as new. I tested for continuity and checked out ok. I don't know if the Load Pro works on the ohm scale but tried it and there was no drop.
Just the same, I pulled an identical fuse from the panel and tried that. No cigar.

"I'd pull the fuse and do a close visual exam of the contact pins for F113 looking for corrosion or spread pins. If no visual fault is evident, then use a fused jumper (or power probe) to inject battery voltage into the load-side pins of the F133 socket and retest starter operation." I do have the PP Hook tool. Given I have the full 12.7 voltage at the pins (and no voltage drop), would injecting the power to the load side pin make any difference?
By the way, I took the truck out for a drive to see if I noticed anything unusual but it just ran great, other than a long term issue with white smoke until it warms up, but that's a story for another day.

Thanks for hanging in there.

 

No. Since the initial voltage tests of F113 were erroneous, it doesn't matter.

In my suggestion from the 25th in post #2, I mistakenly used the term F32. It should have been F31 that is HOT IN START. Sorry about that, please recheck using the corrected test points. I also see I managed to mistype F113 as F133 back there. Hoo boy!

BTW, have you been able to observe if the starter relay clicks when the key is turned from RUN to START?

 

Hello, I did not get a chance to work on the truck today but I will check F31 tomorrow. Funny thing is, I never noticed the F133. I read it as F113. I will also check to see if the starter clicks. It hasn't so far. Maybe with all the checking, it will.
Will let you know what happens.
Thanks

 

projectSHO89:
Good news!! I tested the F31 at the test points while turning the key to activate the starter and got nothing on either point. I removed the fuse and tested it and it was fine. I then tested the terminals without the fuse and lo and behold, I heard clicking noises coming from the fuse box, likely the starter relay being activated. How weird (to me), I wasn't applying power, I was simply testing with the DMM while turning the key. I reconnected the fuse and the solenoid cable and went to crank it and it worked! I tried it a few times and it continued to work. What do you make of that?
In any case, thank you for helping and leading me to test F31. That did the deed.
I appreciate it very much! On to the next issue, the smoking issue. There is also a small but persistent coolant leak coming from the egr component area. I will take it apart to see what I can find.
Thanks again.

 

Probably loose or corroded connection.

Not my area of specialization. One of the diesel-oriented guys can probably advise on that. Never worked with the diesels.

 

"Probably loose or corroded connection." Probably loose connection. I found the source of the leak using a borescope. It is an aftermarket part so the o'rings might be a problem to find. Might have to buy the whole part. At least I know what to do.