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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 07:14 PM
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First bit of PM

I've owned MOSTLY Ford trucks...the thing I like best about servicing them, is all that room underneath....I swear I could almost sit up underneath my old PSD!
Over the past few days, I've done my first bit of PM to this new-to-me SD.
The PO e-mailed me two days after the sale to tell me that when he had his oil changed, the fellows mentioned to him that he should change out his rear-diff fluid as well, since he was past the 80,000 km mark.
This wasn't his regular shop, so he said he'd get it done when he got home....but forgot.

No biggie...I can do this.
Monday, I loosened all the bolts and pried the cover off to let it drain. After it drained for a ½ hr or so...I removed the cover completely and let it drip some more. While it dripped, I cleaned the cover thoroughly and then put it on the wire-wheel to get rid of some of the rust.
Once I got all the rust off, it looked terrible, so I gave it a few coats of gloss-black paint. I also cleaned up the bolts and gave them some metallic paint, to fake a chrome motif....
Paint needed 24 hours to cure, so I let it sit overnight....truck isn't insured, so I can't drive it anyway!
I also cleaned out as much of the old oil (stuck in those pockets in the diff) as well, and cleaned the gasket surface.

Tuesday, we had things to do after work, so nothing was done that day.

Wednesday, I put on the RTV goo and headed back under the vehicle. I cut the heads off some 2" 5/16 bolts and threaded them into the top two holes on the diff. This way, I could place the cover, without ruining the nice lines of RTV that I had made. Once everything was lined up, I simply slid the cover along the upper two bolts and then worked the others into place. Once the other ten were in place and hand-tight, I could remove the cut bolts and replace them with the proper ones.
I torqued the cover (criss-cross pattern) to about 30 lbs, to get the RVT oozing. It too needs 24 hours to cure, so I left it overnight again.
Today, I re-torqued the bolts to 35 lbs and added the oil.
I don't know where I got the idea that 3 qts would be enough....but that's what I had bought. Once all three were in there...it still wasn't "overflowing" out of the bung, so I had to run back into town to get another quart.
Turns out I only used about 2 oz out of the new bottle, so I guess maybe 3 qts is enough...

That went fairly well, considering it took 4 days!

While I was under there, I checked out some of the other fluids I will be doing. Transfer case seems easy enough....drain plug, fill plug.
Is it possible to get the cover off the FRONT diff? The axle seems fairly close....
Sorry I don't have any pics to wow you with, but I was more concerned about getting this done.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 12:11 AM
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I did not have any problem getting the front diff cover off of my 2015 4X4 F250 PSD. Next time, buy a gasket from Lube locker. Makes a perfect seal, no waiting, & don't have to deal with RTV mess. It's a favorite with the off road Jeep guys.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 01:49 AM
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...or I could make my own gaskets!

Good to know about the front cover. I was watching a Youtube video where the guy was explaining how to drain the front diff without removing the cover, but then I realized it was for a different year of F150.

Lube Locker is an American company and being a Canuck means that my dollar isn't worth squat.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 07:55 AM
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Plenty of clearance to get the cover off the front differential.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 08:46 AM
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Yes, plenty of room to get the front diff cover off without popping a tie rod loose. I recommend that the wheels are pointing straight ahead to give you the most room possible.

Also, our trucks came with ATF in the transfer case. There have been issues with the transfer case (not too many that I know of) but Ford recommends XL-12 in the transfer case instead of ATF. If you do change the fluid I recommend you switch to Ford's XL-12 for peace of mind.

Just my .02
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by brian42
Yes, plenty of room to get the front diff cover off without popping a tie rod loose. I recommend that the wheels are pointing straight ahead to give you the most room possible.

Also, our trucks came with ATF in the transfer case. There have been issues with the transfer case (not too many that I know of) but Ford recommends XL-12 in the transfer case instead of ATF. If you do change the fluid I recommend you switch to Ford's XL-12 for peace of mind.

Just my .02
Yes...I saw in the manual that they recommend their version of Transfer case fluid, instead of ATF. Thanks for the "head's up"....
 
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 06:08 PM
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Just completed my first (on this one) oil change.
Didn't go as easy as it did on my old Powerstroke, but at least I didn't need 4 GALLONS of oil!!!!
The quickie-lube place the PO used, installed a cheapo little Valvoline filter....I mean it was small....so small that I had to come back inside and verify that the M1-210 I bought would fit.
Then I realized why they used such a small filter; there's not a lot of room in there..........it took me several tries with the wrench, to get the old filter off....meathead must have tightened it with an impact wrench!
There isn't a lot of free space to spin a filter wrench in that tight little area between the frame, front diff and the oil cooler....but I persevered and got it off.
Partially filled the M1 and spun her on then tightened with a wrench.................but before I get flamed for using a wrench to INSTALL a filter, hear me out.
I never go past the recommended ½ turn or so after the gasket makes contact. I have some shoulder issues that come and go, and if I can give them a break, I will. Any oil filter I've ever put on by wrench could be removed by hand at a later date.

7 qts of Mobil 1 5W-20 later, and we're good to go! Reset the oil-life indicator on the dash...
Fired her up and double checked the level afterwards....and I'll check it again in a couple of hours, just to be sure.

Another item off the check-list.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2019 | 03:08 PM
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Changed out the transfer case fluid this morning, with Mercon LV as per the Dealer's recommendations.

When I removed the top plug, nothing came out....
I removed the bottom, and dirty blackish-red fluid poured out into my drain pan. When I decanted it back into used containers, there was barely 2 qts.
Before replacing the bottom plug, I pumped a bit of fresh stuff into it, to help flush out the old crud.
Refilled until I got overflow out of the top hole....let it level out for about 10 minutes and then replaced the top bung....easy-peasy.

Another item off the list.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2019 | 12:04 PM
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I just picked up a 2011 6.2 on Friday and I’m doing a fluid change as well. They must’ve changed the oil filter location as it was really easy to access on mine.

I did the transmission fluid yesterday. Super easy, but after I drained it and refilled with the recommended 8 quarts it looks a touch high once it got up to temp. I may try and drain some out without losing it all.

Glad to hear the x-fer case was easy. That’s on the list for today along with a coolant drain.

Glad the diff went well. I’m doing the front and rear tomorrow if the weather holds... so probably not till next week.
 

Last edited by Wandering Dixie; Apr 3, 2019 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Found the answer
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Old Apr 3, 2019 | 05:59 PM
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Yes, the transfer case is very easy to do but be warned that the Mercon LV that you will be putting in there, is very thin and easy to spill....DAMHIK!

Congrats on the new truck!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2019 | 08:30 AM
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X2 on the Lube Locker, I use them on my D80 and my Jeep Axles never a leak or mess and they’re reusable. On my Jeep I lift the frame up to pull the suspension off the diff cover.
 
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