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Hello everyone,
I am looking for photos of what I assume is the metal rod that supports the rear section of the box fender. Both of mine are missing but I do see the bolt locations. Also if someone has a spare set I would happily purchase them from you. Sadly my fenders bounce around right now without them.
The front & rear fender braces go on a stud on the fenders and go up to a bolt on the bad sides.
You should have 4 bolts that are longer than the rest. there is a nut on the bolts to clamp the bed sides to the wood then the brace and a second nut to hold the brace.
My truck was also missing them but my brother found some in a JY and sent them to me along with other needed parts.
Now there are 2 different size braces, 2 wide, 2 thinner, I do not know where either one goes as I have not tried them on yet.
Now if you are not looking for factory ones for a show truck you can make some if you have a welder, some rod & washers.
Fit the washers on the fenders & the bed bolts. Run the rod up to the washers and cut rod to size. Tack weld the rod to washers, remove everything to weld up better.
Clean, paint and install and you now have fender braces.
That is what I was going to do till I got a set.
Dave ----
Hello everyone,
I am looking for photos of what I assume is the metal rod that supports the rear section of the box fender. Both of mine are missing but I do see the bolt locations. Also if someone has a spare set I would happily purchase them from you. Sadly my fenders bounce around right now without them.
thanks
Do you mean the metal brackets at the front and rear of the fiberglass fenders? They do rust out after a while and the fenders will start slapping the steel sides of the bed...
The ones Dave is talking about won't really cause the fenders to flop around if they're not there. My truck doesn't have them...
Do you mean the metal brackets at the front and rear of the fiberglass fenders? They do rust out after a while and the fenders will start slapping the steel sides of the bed...
The ones Dave is talking about won't really cause the fenders to flop around if they're not there. My truck doesn't have them...
I do have one or two spots on those that have rusted out on those. I'm sure I need to check those out. Are they just riveted? I just noticed those are rusting a bit.
I do also want to add the rods just for extra stability.
I am looking for photos of what I assume is the metal rod that supports the rearsection of the box fender. Both of mine are missing but I do see the bolt locations.
1980/87 F100/150 Flareside:
EOTZ-16340-B .. Right Rear Fender Brace-Rear / Obsolete
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 2 = 800-543-4959.
------------------------------------------------------------------ EOTZ-16341-B .. Left Rear Fender Brace-Rear/ Obsolete
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 1 = 972-937-2201.
I do have one or two spots on those that have rusted out on those. I'm sure I need to check those out. Are they just riveted? I just noticed those are rusting a bit.
I do also want to add the rods just for extra stability.
I forgot about that part of the fender. I want to say that metal is fiber glassed into place.
Mine were is pretty good shape so I just cleaned them up and will give a few coats of paint to protect them.
If they have to be replaced I cant see it being that hard. Find angle iron of the right size and drill holes in it to match the side bed panel.
Fit the fender on the panel and place that new part in place and mark where it needs to sit on the fender.
Pull the fender back off and you can now place that part on the fender using the marks you made.
Then you can either glass them back in place or use body panel bonding glue.
If you know a body shop that uses the bonding glue maybe they can glue them in place for you.
I forgot about that part of the fender. I want to say that metal is fiber glassed into place.
Mine were is pretty good shape so I just cleaned them up and will give a few coats of paint to protect them.
If they have to be replaced I cant see it being that hard. Find angle iron of the right size and drill holes in it to match the side bed panel.
Fit the fender on the panel and place that new part in place and mark where it needs to sit on the fender.
Pull the fender back off and you can now place that part on the fender using the marks you made.
Then you can either glass them back in place or use body panel bonding glue.
If you know a body shop that uses the bonding glue maybe they can glue them in place for you.
Hope that helps.
Dave ----
I did get the chance to look at them, one has rusted and isnt holding the fender anymore. The passenger side has fallen off completely so I'll need to make one. Thankfully the fiberglass piece on the fender is still there.
I did get the chance to look at them, one has rusted and isnt holding the fender anymore. The passenger side has fallen off completely so I'll need to make one. Thankfully the fiberglass piece on the fender is still there.
And with out the other outer braces I guess they would flop around.
I posted ways I would fix both and I don't think either one is hard and other than needing a welder to the outer braces can be done at home with a little skill.
Keep us posted on the fix as it may help others.
Dave ----
I forgot about that part of the fender. I want to say that metal is fiber glassed into place.
I'm just working on my Flareside fenders today. I have three sets of these, and they're all the same. The angle brackets are held in place by 3 aluminum rivets, and there was some sort of adhesive used between the brackets and the fenders. I don't know what it is, but it's like body fill. It has a greenish color to it and is hard as a rock. I had to grind it off and it just turns into white powder.
I'm not sure yet if I'm going to use a set of brackets from my spare fenders or make a new set of brackets. Probably make a new set so I can leave them intact on the other two sets.
I'm just going to bolt the new brackets on. Mine were all rusted off, but still holding enough that the fenders weren't flopping around.
It has been a wile since I looked on the in side of my fenders to remember just how they were done.
Bolt on works too and is even easier to do at home than the glass or body bond glue.
I guess you would not even have to make them in steel and could use ALUM. as it is real easy to work with.
Dave ----
My first step will be to remove the line x from the heads of the bolts on the inside of the box that the previous owner put on so I can remove the fenders to check the condition of all of these. That will be the next few weeks project. Then I need to move on to fixing the rusted out tailgate hinge mounting points.
If you are talking of where the wood bed can be seen and the little dimple of heads for the fender bolts they are not really bolts.
They are but they are tack welded to the bed sides and the fenders are only held on with nuts on the wheel side of the fenders.
You just need to undo the nuts,13mm IIRC, and the fenders can be removed.
Now if you are talking on the wheel side and the nuts are covered with bed liner good luck.
I say this because the floor of my parts truck that I used for the floor of my flare side floor had bed liner.
Trimming the sides off from the floor using a plasma cutter was fun ....... NOT when it was on fire!
It is like hot wax when burning bed liner gets on you.
Because my bed sides with fender still bolted on where not bolted to the floor (truck did not have one LOL) I laid them flat and sprayed them with PB Blaster for weeks before I tried to undo the nuts.
I only broke 1 stud.
Dave ----
Well that makes my life even easier then, I will have to just get in there and remove the fender and get to work on it. I want to make the truck look good again, sadly it was restored about 15 years ago but several previous owners have now let it become a little run down compared to what it once was. Need to hunt down a few interior pieces too.
Then I need to move on to fixing the rusted out tailgate hinge mounting points.
I'm having all new parts made for this...I'll post up some pictures for you today. I bought new bed sides, but they didn't come with the stake pockets and hinge mounting points.
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