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So i had a major wheel bearing malfunction, it destroyed my spindle and both inner and outer bearings. I got a new spindle and replaced the races a.d bearings. But now whenever I drive it that hub gets really hot like the bearings are to tight, which they are not. Inner bearing torqued to 50 lbs and the outer 160lbs. I have no idea what the problem is.
So i had a major wheel bearing malfunction, it destroyed my spindle and both inner and outer bearings. I got a new spindle and replaced the races a.d bearings. But now whenever I drive it that hub gets really hot like the bearings are to tight, which they are not. Inner bearing torqued to 50 lbs and the outer 160lbs. I have no idea what the problem is.
The first nut is at 50?!?!? Lbs?!?!
thats the issue.
The first nut is at 50?!?!? Lbs?!?!
thats the issue.
Yes, way too tight. Where did that 50 ft lb number come from? I don't know what the "official" torque is supposed to be, I just tighten mine snug to take the play out, then back it off a bit. Never burned up a wheel bearing.
I googled it and that's what It came up with. 50lbs for the inner and 160-204l s for the outer. Guess I'll be taking it back a part and loosening them up.lol
That inner gets set to 50 to seat the bearings then backed off to basically just over hand tight plus a scosche . Then outer nut locks the deal from backing off.
Adjusting the bearing requires knowledge of how threads and nuts are made. There is play between the threads that must be considered.
400k on my original bearings adjusted to a very small amount of final play when outer nut is finally tightened. Takes a bit of adjusting the first nut to achive that.
For manual hubs:
Torque the inner nut to about 50 ft-lb while spinning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings; then break it lose and tighten just enough to take the play out. Adjust the inner nut as necessary to fit the dowel pin into the lock ring. Then the outter nut is torqued to around 120-150 ft-lb.
Auto hubs are basically the same but with a locking pin that slides between the nut and the spindle and no outer nut.
I often wish there was a finer adjustment with the lock ring pin. It's borderline between extra play and a bit of preload. I always errored on the loose side.
Made that choice when I bought it. Used Mobil 1 grease. Was constantlty worried about too much preload. To do properly would require a special gage setup. Seems like the over the road semi-trucks have it solved.
Ok so I hadn't drove the truck since last weekend. Jacked it up this morning and loosened the nuts up. I basically loosened them up and tightened them up finger tight and then put my socket on tightening while checking for wheel play. As soon as the wheel play was gone I put the lock washer on and then the 2nd outer nut on. I can not go any looser as there will be play in the wheel. I have never had trouble like this. Is it possible that the bearing races are not seated properly?