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I recently bought a 1988 bronco ii 2.9 4 wheel drive, it's an automatic. I am 40 and never learned the engine so this project forces my hand. I have kids and no self respecting man doesn't know the engine.
Anyway this puppy has only had one owner and only 120k miles on it. The issue is it sat for years after the man died, it runs but needs love. I have replaced the exhaust, brakes, break lines, rotars, calipers, TPS, iAC, distributor, plugs, and wires.
Next is Fuel filter, belts, oil change, and I need to check diffirentals and transfer case fluids. My question is what do I put in them as fluids? There are a million opinions and I want to do this right. I live in Georgia not sure if climate makes a difference.
Also the oil type and is any of this worth switching to synthetic?
Mind you this car needs to be a rebuild but the deal with the wife was what I'd bought would get me to and from work so I am doing this all outta order.
When I say I know nothing I mean I know NOTHING so treat me like a fool.
Sorry of this is a stupid question because more will follow.
The axles will take 80/90W gear oil and add limited slip modifier to the rear if it's limited slip. I think the t-case will use Dexron III ATF. Your friendly auto parts store guy should be able to confirm that. I would use 10W40 dino (conventional) oil in the engine. Id' stay away from synthetic in a vehicle that old. It was not designed for it. Syn oil will find leaks - you can bet on that! I used Valvoline 10W40 in my 86 2.9 for over 250K miles, changing it and filter every 3K mi. I sold it after my 4L swap and it is still running in another BII. You should get yourself a Chilton's or Haynes manual and get familiar with your new truck!
Is that my fuel filter and housing?
Much appreciated, I bought the Haynes guide but being so new it's Greek to me. I have been trying to access my fuel filter for days. There is a bracket in front of it but feels like if I take it off the filter may be attached. Also any special tools needed? I went to AutoZone for a quick disconnect tool and they looked at me like I was asking for a unicorn.
So I'm reading the book and plugging away but God help me I am a fool.
That looks like your fuel pump and it looks like it needs replaced too! The filter should be on the frame rail a bit above the pump. You don't need any kind of quick disconnect for the lines. Just pull the clips out and the lines should come off the pump or filter - that is if they are not hopelessly rusted on!
As far as getting the pump out, that plate comes off, giving access to the pump. It's in that funky metal shield, wrapped in rubber padding. The rust looks pretty nasty. You might have to cut the plate off or the bolts holding it on. YUCK!!
One thing I love about New Mexico - dry climate and cars don't rust!!
I replaced the fuel filter, pump is next weekend.afyer replacing distributor, IAC, MAP, throttle control valve, changing oil, plugs, wires , PCV, hunting down all vacuum leaks, New exhaust, new brakes/calipers, and replacing bad hoses and air filter. The truck is quite and runs like a top. I mean it sounds damn good and runs as I'd expect.
The only issue that is new and annoying is when shifting to reverse or rarely sitting in Park the RPMs fall to 300/400 and oil light blinks. All this lasts a second or two and bounce right back to normal. It's a rare issue but still one I see at least 3/4 times a week. Only when car is warmed up it is an automatic.
Also what are thoughts on changing trans fluid? This truck sat for better part of a decade after the original owner died and his wife selling it to me. It has a slow trans leak around gasket, when I say slow I mean a drop here and there. Haven't added fluid since I got it last month. My buddy says put RTV around pan and wait till I'm change transmission next year. He says sometimes people change it and it takes a crap, I added Lucas trans gasket conditioner.
This is a project truck but one I use daily so I prefer not to blow her up.
Thanks for all the help I'll get fuel pump done this weekend.
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