2001 shifting problems... HELP PLEASE
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2001 shifting problems... HELP PLEASE
New to me 01 F-350 2wd auto. I've had the truck just over a week. The gauge cluster was dead and the truck was shifting weird. I've replaced the cluster but the transmission still shifts all crazy like. I was hoping the cluster would fix the shifting issue. I know the PCM must see the speedo in order to tell the tranny when to shift. Speedo and all other gauges are working properly now. However, the transmission is erratic. It seems to upshift to soon and downshift to late. Sometimes when coming to a stop it only downshifts to second. So when you take off your in second gear. If I use the shift lever and manually go through the gears it shifts as it should. Any suggestions on what might be wrong?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,086
Likes: 4,697
From: Henderson, NV
By your description, I am assuming it's an automatic transmission (4R100). Your best course of action to narrow things down quickly is to get a scanner and pull error codes. A lot of people here like to use ForScan (https://forscan.org/home.html) with this OBD dongle: OBDLink OBD2 Scanner MX Bluetooth: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows and Android - DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics
.
Failing that, you'll have to run through a host of troubleshooting steps. The first ones off the top of my head are:
1) is the transmission fluid at the correct level?
2) does the fluid look/smell burnt?
3) check all electrical grounds.
4) is your od light flashing?
5) if it is flashing, is your alternator okay?
Failing that, you'll have to run through a host of troubleshooting steps. The first ones off the top of my head are:
1) is the transmission fluid at the correct level?
2) does the fluid look/smell burnt?
3) check all electrical grounds.
4) is your od light flashing?
5) if it is flashing, is your alternator okay?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
By your description, I am assuming it's an automatic transmission (4R100). Your best course of action to narrow things down quickly is to get a scanner and pull error codes. A lot of people here like to use ForScan (https://forscan.org/home.html) with this OBD dongle: OBDLink OBD2 Scanner MX Bluetooth: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows and Android - DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ..._-joJCb1703TP3.
Failing that, you'll have to run through a host of troubleshooting steps. The first ones off the top of my head are:
1) is the transmission fluid at the correct level?
2) does the fluid look/smell burnt?
3) check all electrical grounds.
4) is your od light flashing?
5) if it is flashing, is your alternator okay?
Failing that, you'll have to run through a host of troubleshooting steps. The first ones off the top of my head are:
1) is the transmission fluid at the correct level?
2) does the fluid look/smell burnt?
3) check all electrical grounds.
4) is your od light flashing?
5) if it is flashing, is your alternator okay?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,086
Likes: 4,697
From: Henderson, NV
I received my obd2 scan tool in the mail today. I am using the torque pro app on my phone. When I scan for codes while key is on it says no codes found. If I run scan while truck is running it kills it and it will not restart unless I turn the key off and back on. According to the app, the truck is shifting through the gears. However, sometimes, I can give the truck full throttle and it acts like it's not getting the fuel. Again, according to torque pro, it shows TPS at 100 when pedal is to the floor. HPOP pressure is a little above 500 at idle and rises with rpm. Injector pressure around 2800 at idle and rises with rpm. I'm lost as far as what else to look for.
Also, are any of your symptoms similar to this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...1577664&page=2
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Freshman User
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Yeah, it's generally not a good idea to scan for DTCs while KOER. It seems odd to me that you are not getting any codes with the issues you describe. Which OBD-II scan tool did you get? Did you check to see that it is PWMJ1850 compatible? How about the other things I asked you about?
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Henderson, NV
Originally Posted by Jlwhitt77
I bought the OBD2 LINK LX. Trans fluid is full and light pink, no burnt smell. Battery voltage is 14 + volts with truck running. I keep oil level within hash marks on stick. Pretty sure turbo pedestal is leaking a little. I'm leaning toward a bad PCM. When I try to run test in Torque Pro with engine running or not it says can't communicate with PCM. However, Torque Pro and OBD connector show that they are talking and I'm able to see vitals through Torque Pro. EOT, EBP, etc...
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Also, my original description isn't 💯 accurate. The truck is shifting down to 1 St gear when I stop according to torque pro. It's like when you take off from a stop the TPS isn't sending the signal even though torque pro is showing throttle response percentage to be working correctly. I'm not sure how to check fuel pressure with the app. HPOP at 500+ at idle and raises with rpm. Injector pressure 2000+ and raises with rpm. It doesn't stall or have the symptoms every time I drive it. However, throttle response isn't the same every time I drive either. Manly notice it only from a stop or at low speed/rpm. Once the RPMS come up it seems to be ok other than hard shifts. Mainly shifts good 1st through 3rd but ALWAYS shifts a little hard into 4th and even harder into OD. If I have the pedal to the floor going into 4th and OD she shifts pretty smooth. I'm now thinking I have more than one problem. Something going on with PCM and a problem with TC lock up. No flashing OD light.
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My neighbor has a 7.3 but I think it's a 93 and probably will not work. If I buy one from a salvage yard will it need flashed before I can try it out? It seems nothing is cheap with these trucks. Even the filters are high dollar. I will say that changing the fuel filter is the easiest maintenance I've done to any vehicle ever.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2018
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Yeah, it's generally not a good idea to scan for DTCs while KOER. It seems odd to me that you are not getting any codes with the issues you describe. Which OBD-II scan tool did you get? Did you check to see that it is PWMJ1850 compatible? How about the other things I asked you about?
Also, are any of your symptoms similar to this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...1577664&page=2
Also, are any of your symptoms similar to this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...1577664&page=2
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
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From: Temperance, MI
If you want to know if the hutch mod will make a difference or not, here's what you need to do. Unscrew the fuel cap and leave it off. Get under the truck, disconnect the fuel line wherever it is easy to do (I always did it at the back of the fuel pump), take compressed air, stick the nozzle into the fuel line, blow air from the fuel line back into the fuel tank. You will hear a big burp and bubbles in the fuel tank. Put it all back together and don't forget to put your fuel cap back on. Cycle the key a few times so the fuel pump builds pressure. Now... the hard part... go drive the truck and beat on it a bit and see if you notice a difference (so hard to do, I know). If you notice a difference then you need to drop the tank, if no difference then your pick up screens were fine and I just saved you a lot of work.
If you're running out of fuel at 1/4 tank then either way the tank should come down.
If you're running out of fuel at 1/4 tank then either way the tank should come down.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Los Angeles, Ca.
Also, my original description isn't 💯 accurate. The truck is shifting down to 1 St gear when I stop according to torque pro. It's like when you take off from a stop the TPS isn't sending the signal even though torque pro is showing throttle response percentage to be working correctly. I'm not sure how to check fuel pressure with the app. HPOP at 500+ at idle and raises with rpm. Injector pressure 2000+ and raises with rpm. It doesn't stall or have the symptoms every time I drive it. However, throttle response isn't the same every time I drive either. Manly notice it only from a stop or at low speed/rpm. Once the RPMS come up it seems to be ok other than hard shifts. Mainly shifts good 1st through 3rd but ALWAYS shifts a little hard into 4th and even harder into OD. If I have the pedal to the floor going into 4th and OD she shifts pretty smooth. I'm now thinking I have more than one problem. Something going on with PCM and a problem with TC lock up. No flashing OD light.
And you thought it was only shifting down to 2nd at stops, but TP shows it going to 1st. I don't know if the computer can know that it has actually shifted to 1st, I think all it can tell you is that 1st was commanded. You can verify by shifting it to 1st and compare to when you don't and see if it's actually shifting to 1st or just being commanded to.
It's possible the truck has been tuned and that could be making it shift funny. Any way to get info & vehicle history from the previous owner?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 45
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If you want to know if the hutch mod will make a difference or not, here's what you need to do. Unscrew the fuel cap and leave it off. Get under the truck, disconnect the fuel line wherever it is easy to do (I always did it at the back of the fuel pump), take compressed air, stick the nozzle into the fuel line, blow air from the fuel line back into the fuel tank. You will hear a big burp and bubbles in the fuel tank. Put it all back together and don't forget to put your fuel cap back on. Cycle the key a few times so the fuel pump builds pressure. Now... the hard part... go drive the truck and beat on it a bit and see if you notice a difference (so hard to do, I know). If you notice a difference then you need to drop the tank, if no difference then your pick up screens were fine and I just saved you a lot of work.
If you're running out of fuel at 1/4 tank then either way the tank should come down.
If you're running out of fuel at 1/4 tank then either way the tank should come down.