When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have them override the Vin number and use this set up. You'll be golden. Not the standard 250 4X4 spec's
This was after I installed the bushings and before I set the Tow. Drives better than it did off the lot.
We have a lot of crown in NO Va.
Have them override the Vin number and use this set up. You'll be golden. Not the standard 250 4X4 spec's
This was after I installed the bushings and before I set the Tow. Drives better than it did off the lot.
We have a lot of crown in NO Va.
i concur. Caster at 4 or 5 degrees big no no on these 17 and up super duty’s. The tsb for the death wobble states to bring caster to the lowest end of the spectrum but be sure to maintain that .5 degrees of cross caster.
Thanks for the replys. But now i dont know what to do after reading them.....lol.
But to add to the story. When they called to say its done, i asked if they had a before and after printed out. I got the..." uhm, yeah, uhm i can get that for you". " oh, wait, here it is, yeah its printed out". That makes me feel that it possibly wasnt and after the phone call they printed one out with numbers just pencil whipped in there....lol. Whats the factory specs? Its a 19.
Thanks for the replys. But now i dont know what to do after reading them.....lol.
But to add to the story. When they called to say its done, i asked if they had a before and after printed out. I got the..." uhm, yeah, uhm i can get that for you". " oh, wait, here it is, yeah its printed out". That makes me feel that it possibly wasnt and after the phone call they printed one out with numbers just pencil whipped in there....lol. Whats the factory specs? Its a 19.
you cant whip specs in their which is good for you. What they probably did was put it back on the rack with the wheels turned a bit hit save for you before and the straightened the wheel to get the after. But your toe is good and also camber. Your caster is way to low. I wonder if they didn’t do the caster sweep or just didn’t want to see the red lol. 2.7-3 degrees on the left with 3.2-3.5 on the right would be perfect. Just make sure it stays .5 degrees heavy on the right side which helps the truck track straight on crowned roads (not flat all the way across)
you cant whip specs in their which is good for you. What they probably did was put it back on the rack with the wheels turned a bit hit save for you before and the straightened the wheel to get the after. But your toe is good and also camber. Your caster is way to low. I wonder if they didn’t do the caster sweep or just didn’t want to see the red lol. 2.7-3 degrees on the left with 3.2-3.5 on the right would be perfect. Just make sure it stays .5 degrees heavy on the right side which helps the truck track straight on crowned roads (not flat all the way across)
Thanks! So im guessing i need caster bushings to get it to those specs or is there enough factory adjustment?
Well I just got back from having my truck done after I put my 2.5 inch leveling kit on.I asked the guy about the specs on red and he said that’s as close as he could get it.I asked him if I needed caster bushings like mentioned on here and he told me there’s no need for them.
My truck drives nice and straight and really don’t notice anything different even on the highway.I do have 37’s that I haven’t put on yet and he did tell me I may want to bring it back after I put them on.Not sure how it will drive after those get put on.
After reading what you guys have told the OP I’m now alittle more concerned than I was about the red...
Can someone PLEASE explain to me why these trucks should be running with very near neutral caster? Because I'm not buying it. Unless these front axles are built really strange (I don't think they are) this totally goes against decades of experience and knowledge in properly setting a solid front live axle to work properly. I will go on Pirate 4X4 and ask those guys there. Should get the customary brutal response but will cross-link here.
My personal experience plus a hell of a lot of research backs that up, regardless of make of vehicle or brand of axle. When I get my truck, it will NOT be running a degree of caster, unless it is proven that the axle is built such that almost no extra caster is necessary and that would be a morphodite thing right there.
I think there’s confusion in terms. I’m gathering by neutral they mean very little bias left to right. It can’t possibly be anyone thinks these trucks will be better with near 0 caster than 3-5.
And the gauge arrived today while the wife was home... but i’m Still glad it’s here!
If I read this stuff correctly, the TSB is in regards to setting caster at around 2* plus or minus. And has been discussed as to guys taking truck in to dealership specifically to get the caster reduced to under 2*.
So my query was to have someone explain WHY THIS IS THE CORRECT CASTER SETTING on this particular axle, and how doing so will make the death wobble go away. Crickets. As in -zero- response. In regards to "neutral" the intent was to imply a setting of 0* would be perpendicular, positive would be tilted back towards cab by X*, and negative would be tilted towards vehicle bow X*. SO clearly a caster setting of 1 to 2* is very nearly straight up and down. And that ain't right! Unless there is some caster already built into how the axle is placed into the truck, which I doubt but heck I could be wrong. However I do not believe this to be factual, as a few guys have specifically stated that they went to get the TSB done, and the original factory set caster was @ 4.5* positive. I commented that was because THAT IS WHERE IT SHOULD BE AS A MINIMUM TO HELP PREVENT DEATH WOBBLE. Why the factory set the caster there... So the axle should NOT be set with some built-in positive caster already and that means the TSB is directly contradictory to accepted proven practice of setting caster CORRECTLY on a solid live front axle. Bottom line.
I completely agree with your conclusion about what the caster should be, so I’ll be likewise interested to hear why anyone thinks otherwise.
I guess i can can come up with theories about the greater angle creating a stronger opposing force to return to center that could help amplify some harmonic oscillation or something... but it’s just not been my experience with warn out solid front ends for over a decade...
i concur. Caster at 4 or 5 degrees big no no on these 17 and up super duty’s. The tsb for the death wobble states to bring caster to the lowest end of the spectrum but be sure to maintain that .5 degrees of cross caster.
So too much positive caster can be a cause of death wobble? Also where are you finding these TSB's? Is there a data base somewhere? Sorry for the dumb questions, trying to learn.
So stock (with 20" stock Michelin tires) it drove great. I then had 295/65R20E Toyo MTs and a readylift 1" spring lifting block installed and after these two changes I had 2.7* left and 2.9* right caster. I also now had loose steering, bump steer, and a fairly strong pull to the right. I was shocked for I had an alignment done and all was within specs. So I ordered PMF dual steering stabilizers and installed. This improved my bump steer by 50% of so but I was still not happy (still a little light, still pull to right, and still some bump steer).
From this forum, many say with level kits need around 4* left and 4.5* right caster, so I ordered SPC part numbers 23268 (2.3* caster bushing) & 23269 (2.6* caster bushing) and a realignment. I now have 4.6* left and 5.2* right caster. I have only drove about 25 miles after this change but it was a good improvement. my bump steer is back to stock level (acceptable) and steering feel is much firmer (which I like...I hate floaty steering). I surprisingly still have some pull to the right but not quite as bad as before. Many say the MTs have this characteristic.
