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I'll let others chime in but the ICP looks on the low side to me. I'd like to see that value while cranking cold, especially when it's having trouble starting.
The injector pulse width under cranking would be great data as well, it tells us several things.
I don't run an EBPV, so I don't know what those values should be - but the idle value looks right, and since the problem is at startup, I don't see why that would have an effect.
EBP looks good for road conditions as described. On third picture when idling some strange numbers:
1. HPOP is showing 493.6 which is a bit low and usually is around 550++, although it nominally varies a lot.
2. InjPW is 2472.0 which is about twice the normal value when idling with a warm engine.
P1280 is ICP circuit out of range low This means the PCM is expecting a higher value than it's reading. This could explain why the InjPW is so high idling trying to keep the truck running. As mentioned a cold start (cranking) screen would help with the same setup you have now.
I left the pickup unplugged and here is a cranking screenshot.
I'm not sure how accurate the rpm number is, it sounded normal and it usually cranks around 500 on the tach.
Cranked for about 10-15 seconds, no start, unplugged ICP, cranked another 10 or so and it was cranking pretty sslo by that time, not registering on the tach
Where was that shot taken in the start process you outlined? When you first started cranking with ICP connected, later while it was still connected, or the second attempt when the batteries were low and the ICP was disconnected?
If two 10-second crank cycles take your system voltage that low, I would still be suspicious of the batteries or cables. If the batteries are stabilizing to 12.4 - 12.7 after a start attempt like that, my next move would be to check all of the battery terminals/connectors/cables, as well as the engine grounds. If they aren't recovering to at least over 12v, I wouldn't trust the batteries - they're probably going to need a quality jump especially in colder weather.
I know it may sound as if we are going around in circles, but an electrical system that isn't near 100% will just add to the pressure that the system is under with high-mileage components and cold starting conditions - and troubleshooting computer-controlled systems with questionable voltage supply can lead to expensive misdiagnosis.
Where was that shot taken in the start process you outlined? When you first started cranking with ICP connected, later while it was still connected, or the second attempt when the batteries were low and the ICP was disconnected?
If two 10-second crank cycles take your system voltage that low, I would still be suspicious of the batteries or cables. If the batteries are stabilizing to 12.4 - 12.7 after a start attempt like that, my next move would be to check all of the battery terminals/connectors/cables, as well as the engine grounds. If they aren't recovering to at least over 12v, I wouldn't trust the batteries - they're probably going to need a quality jump especially in colder weather.
I know it may sound as if we are going around in circles, but an electrical system that isn't near 100% will just add to the pressure that the system is under with high-mileage components and cold starting conditions - and troubleshooting computer-controlled systems with questionable voltage supply can lead to expensive misdiagnosis.
That was the first start attempt, they did not go back up to where they should be after the start. I put them on a charger overnight and the pickup would not start even being plugged in, Oil temp showed 80. Even with being on the charger, they only cranked the pickup for maybe 15 seconds total, 2 attempts, this morning at about 25F. I would think they should be able to turn the engine over for longer than that even when cold. I'm thinking I will be getting new batteries on the way home today.
Yeah the cold definitely got the best of them, time to replace and try again. Voltage needs to be like 10.8 I believe to fire the injectors during start-up.
I agree with the above information. Although I think you indicated batteries are less than two years old that really means nothing, ask me how I know. Load testing the batteries are the only real way to know. On my 99 the batteries were about two years old but one tested @ 20% and the other @ 80%.. PO put 650 CCA in, stock per specs but I insisted on two new 850 CCA batteries. Paid a bit more but was well worth the money. Get that problem fixed and we can continue with troubleshooting if necessary.
If still having cold starting issues leave the ICP plugged in and redo the scan but with only 5-7 seconds cranking. Excessive cranking in the 10-15 seconds range can cause the PCM to default to internal tables instead of actual sensor values (ICP and IPR) giving inferred values instead of actual sensor data. PCM is just trying to start the truck.
Of course other factors come into play such as engine oil quality, starter condition and overall battery connections, but you know this. My 97 did this even with new batteries and ended up replacing the starter to fix the issue.
That was the first start attempt, they did not go back up to where they should be after the start. I put them on a charger overnight and the pickup would not start even being plugged in, Oil temp showed 80. Even with being on the charger, they only cranked the pickup for maybe 15 seconds total, 2 attempts, this morning at about 25F. I would think they should be able to turn the engine over for longer than that even when cold. I'm thinking I will be getting new batteries on the way home today.
I really hope it is that simple. I think there is still some concern over the low ICP/P1280/fat pulse width, and that may have caused hard starts that wore down 2 year old batteries.
For what it's worth, after cleaning engine/chassis grounds and replacing the positive and negative cables, mine cranks over very fast on 2 year old batteries, even in the low 30's.
Please give us another cold-start screenshot once you have solid batteries - and I would really recommend cleaning up every connection in the battery positive and ground system, as well as the engine/chassis grounds. Disconnect the batteries, take everything apart, wire brush all the contact surfaces, add a dab of dielectric grease (or a decent waterproof grease) and reassemble. Do one connection at a time so as not to reassemble incorrectly - pre-disassembly pics help a lot later if you can't remember what goes where.
Oh boy. I'm not getting into a battery "discussion". I would go to Costco due to the price, but you'll hear a lot of opinions. Not sure if there's an Interstate dealer near you, I've had luck with them... again, opinions vary.
Got a pair of Costco Interstates, put then in and it cranks much faster. No issues after sitting all day at work today, it was warmer than usual though (40). I'm going to try a cold start unplugged tomorrow morning and grab the readings. Hopefully, it goes smooth and I don't have to stay the wife's car again.
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