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Took my X to get an alignment and get the caster bumped up and the shop informed me all 4 BJ's were needing replacement in front end. It's quite possible this is whats been causing my all too common "lane wander". I'm wondering, how long is it taking most of you to DIY ball joint replacement? I've laid it on my schedule for next Saturday and Sunday and while this is more than enough time, just wondering what I should realistically be expecting to spend on this time wise. I've already ordered the parts from Rock Auto (Moog problem solvers) along with o-rings and seals per "BJ replacement #2" write up in the tech folder.
Since you are going to be saving the money and DIY, consider spending a bit more and getting the Spicers.
( it is who built your axle and the parts that were originally in it, you can’t buy better ) https://www.venturestruckparts.com/p...50-f350-05-15/
as for time, Depends on the tools you have and your skills.
Basic manual hand tools and a bottle jack, 2 days should do it.
air tools and a lift and have done it before.... a few hours.
Since you are going to be saving the money and DIY, consider spending a bit more and getting the Spicers.
( it is who built your axle and the parts that were originally in it, you can’t buy better ) https://www.venturestruckparts.com/p...50-f350-05-15/
as for time, Depends on the tools you have and your skills.
Basic manual hand tools and a bottle jack, 2 days should do it.
air tools and a lift and have done it before.... a few hours.
I definitely wish I'd have come across this spicer kit earlier. I've always had good luck with Moog stuff but the $50 added cost of the spicer kit I'd have probably sprung for it. I was seeing some other pricing info of double that for the kit, which is why I just pulled the trigger on the moogs.
I don't have a lift but I do have air, bench vise, BJ press kit and I should have all the hand tools necessary. Hoping to knock it out by Saturday evening and be able to relax on Sunday. I'll be trying to set up an alignment appointment on Monday morning to get it all dialed back in and get that caster set close to 5* as others have. I love the truck, hate how loose it feels on the highway. Everything else under the front end looks and feels pretty solid.
Seems reasonable, I’d figure the better part of a day to do it in my driveway with air tools.
before you get your alignment done can you measure your hub to fender clearance and share it.
Ive been trying to keep a tally of various setups to add to the caster/wander knowledge base.
fwiw.....venture truck parts is awesome to deal with, If you ever need help or axle parts call them first,
before you get your alignment done can you measure your hub to fender clearance and share it.
Ive been trying to keep a tally of various setups to add to the caster/wander knowledge base.
Definitely will do that. I'll post it up in here if that's ok, or just link the thread you would like the info posted to. Thanks for chiming in on this.
Pirate, are these parts made in China? My driveline guy was telling me Spicer stopped making u-joints in the USA and it made me wonder if it was also their other parts. I had my drive shafts balanced after I installed new u-joints about two years ago and he was showing me the u-joint boxes with Made in USA and Made in China. I got some of the last ones that were Made in USA.
@johntpr Sorry, I just saw your response. I do have a ball joint press kit but could've used a sleeve about 1/2' longer. I got them all out but took some ingenuity on my part. 4.5 hours first side, 3 hours the second side. Thanks everyone for the responses.
@pirate4x4_camo hub to fender measurements are 23" both front, 24" PR, 23.75" DR on an all stock setup.
I also replaced the steering damper with a bilstein unit and the bump steer is pretty much gone now. I haven't driven on the highway yet but I've driven at 60 mph on back country roads and it seems it's road manners are much improved.
your measurements suggest a stock suspension and springs that are in good shape, your caster is likely @3.5* which is marginally adequate as long as everything else is in great shape.
when you go back for alignment do not go more then .06* toe in.
bump steer is caused by having the drag link amd track bar not parallel. they then move in a seperate arc and the diffrence in those 2 arcs is what causes bump steer, a steering dampner can never cause or fix bump steer since it is caused from the duspension and steering geometry being out of sync.
a steering dampner is just that.... it dampens the input frequencys caused by the road surface