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Up till now I've only backed the truck in and out of the garage in a straight line. Had it running today and thought about testing the power steering. As I tried to turn the wheels it would turn easy a half a turn then sorta bind up, I could turn past it and it was easy, then another bind.
ran out of time and couldn't trouble shoot this p.m. So I'm wondering what to look for. I'll add that the front end has not been aligned and I know it's no where near right. Could that cause it ?? Just brainstorming tonite and thinking about problems... It's a MII rack with tubular control arms and a CVF front belt system with Saginaw ps pump with the pressure reducing valve installed...
fluids check ok and the rack is new... Might try tomorrow to jack the front off the ground and try it to see if the bind is still there... it should turn with one finger, right ???
I would first jack it up and turn it without it running to verify smooth movement of all components .I would also assume your pic is pre run as it looks like the belt should be on the other side of the idler just under the AC pump . If you have insufficient belt tension it would cause your problems IMHO
If you have ujoints on the steering shaft check to see if the steering shaft is sticking too far into any of the joints. If it is it will bind as the joint rotates, shaft should just be far enough into the joint to not protrude into the empty space between the ends. If that looks good see if you have too great an angle on a joint and it is binding while turning.
I would first jack it up and turn it without it running to verify smooth movement of all components .I would also assume your pic is pre run as it looks like the belt should be on the other side of the idler just under the AC pump . If you have insufficient belt tension it would cause your problems IMHO
thanks bear... the picture is pre run. I was waiting on a turnbuckle to come in before I tightened everything up..
droptop I remember setting up the u-joints and making sure they were right but I'll double check... things do change.
seaves... air, eh ??? will it work it's way out on its own ?? never thought about bleeding the ps pump.
Air in the system can cause all sorts of problems John. But Yes you need to purge the power steering system of air. Some recommend jacking up the frontend and turning your wheels lock to lock several times without the engine running. Then starting the motor and doing the same with it running. I usually just do the later and it seems to do OK for me. Be sure to keep your fluid level full.
Your turn then tight, then turn then tight leads me to believe a Steering U Joint is binding. But the purging can’t hurt..
Best way to find if there is any binding in the joints is by getting it up on jack stands ,crab hold of the tire and turn lock to lock. Any bind will be more noticeable that way. And like everyone is saying you need to bleed the air out of the rack..
Best way to find if there is any binding in the joints is by getting it up on jack stands ,crab hold of the tire and turn lock to lock. Any bind will be more noticeable that way. And like everyone is saying you need to bleed the air out of the rack..
first try.. up on jack stands so front wheels off ground. topped off the pump (maybe 1/2 oz) Started it up and turned the steering wheel lock to lock bind is still there. Did this about 20 times with no improvement. saw no sign of fluid drop in pump and no bubbling (if there should have been ??)
John, you're saying turn lock to lock 'manually' with engine off ?? hmmm didn't try that, but wonder what the difference is between pump on and pump off ?? educate the poor dumb southern boy
John, you're saying turn lock to lock 'manually' with engine off ?? hmmm didn't try that, but wonder what the difference is between pump on and pump off ?? educate the poor dumb southern boy
John, I think the idea is to see if there's a difference when turning with and without the hydraulic assist, to see if it's a mechanical issue, or hydraulic. If it's a mechanical problem, the same 'catch' will still be there when turning the wheel with the engine off.
I installed a Flaming River steering rack in my '68 Mustang a while back and found the DD shafts were too long and did exactly what you are describing.....I could see the shafts were too deep into the joint, causing the bind, a little trimming on the DD shafts and back in business bind free.
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John, If you’re talking about my post, The theory is the rack will create suction drawing only fluid into it rather than churned up fluid from the pump. Again, I’ve never done more than purge the air via the running pump. But, I’m still leaning toward a binding Ujoint. John’s test will let you know quickly if it’s a mechanical related problem.
as Paul Harvey used to say "Page Two" anyone here old enough to remember Paul Harvey's broadcasts ?? ANYWAY !!
I couldn't move wheels side to side as suggested with engine off. So I disconnected the tie rod ends from the spindles and tried again..still stuck.. so it's in the spindles. Heidt's tech guy said to loosen up the ball joint nuts and try that first. I jacked up the lower control arm just enough to take the pressure off the control arm from the springs and did what he said.. spindles moved freely left to right, so maybe I've found my problems. I must have just cranked down on the ball joint nuts too much. I never did torque them... when they go back I will torque and make sure there's no bind.. info I find on the net sas 90# on the bottom and 80# on the top... we'll see ... next problem.
The truck sat for several years with suspension built but no engine and with 500# springs the ball joints were stretched out all the way.. When I disassembled today I found the grease cups deformed badly. I'm assuming they just slide up the ball joint bolt and rest against the a-arm hole as I see no slot or groove that keeps them in place around the ball joint. does that sound right ?? gonna see about ordering some new grease cups and replace them. Education needed here, please.
The nut only pulls the stud taper into the spindle tightness should have no affect on the movement of the ball joint . If it is then it would seem it's going in too far and bottoming on some part of spindle .
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, The theory is the rack will create suction drawing only fluid into it rather than churned up fluid from the pump. Again, I’ve never done more than purge the air via the running pump. But, I’m still leaning toward a binding Ujoint. John’s test will let you know quickly if it’s a mechanical related problem.
