I was wondering if anyone has ever used the 3" lowering springs for their truck? I want to lower the front of my 72 and found a kit that has everything for a 3/6 drop. I know if I lower the front to much it'll eat front tires from - camber.

 

Who sells this "kit"? Please provide a link....

 

HIO Sliver if it,s lmc, i think i would pass.

 

TB front suspension?
If so then you cant do anything with springs and not have anything not go right with the front tires.
The TB move in an arc and if you move them up, body lower, the inside of the tire will wear.
The only way you can lower the front and not have the tires wear on the inside is to raise the spindle and the only way I know you can do that is with DJM drop beams.
I know they make kits to lower both ends of the later years so you need to see if they make a kit for your year truck.

Oh you could do a Crown Vic front end swap do a search on this.
Dave ----

 

Here's the link.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1979-F....c100033.m2042

 

Have you looked at this kit for your '72?

https://www.andysautosport.com/produ...M3004-3_4.html

 

Yes I have. But really don't want to spend that much. But you how it goes, buying the cheap stuff can end up costing. In the long run

 

I understand. Plus when you add shocks for your newly lowered truck, that's another $275 to $400.

But I've found that buying quality pays for itself in the long run.

Having said that, there are several other much more expensive options for lowering, such as FatMan Fab. Here are some of their products and prices:

Hub-to-hub kit options and pricing:$2065.00 - Stage II hub-to-hub (coil springs and shocks – manual steering, USA-made paintable tubular steel control arms)$2665.00 - Stage III hub-to-hub (QA1 coilovers – manual steering, USA-made paintable tubular steel control arms)$2665.00 - Stage IV hub-to-hub (air bags and shocks – manual steering, USA-made paintable tubular steel control arms)$3265.00 - Stage V hub-to-hub (Shockwaves – manual steering, USA-made paintable tubular steel control arms)

Add $150.00 for power steering rack optionAdd $225.00 for electroless nickel plated finish on steel tubular control arms (USA-made)*SPECIAL* For a limit time while supplies last! Add $225.00 for polished stainless tubular control arms (Stages 2 and 4 ONLY)! That’s a $175.00 savings from the normal $400.00 upgrade price!Any of these kits will lower your vehicle 4”-6” from stock (depending on wheel/tire diameter) with a stock-height Mustang II spindle. If you want to go lower than that you can get a 2” drop Mustang II spindle at no extra charge.All hub-to-hub kits come with 11” disc brakes standard (either Ford or GM passenger lug pattern). We also offer 5x5 and 5x5.5 lug pattern 12” iron disc brakes for an additional $235.00.WILWOOD BRAKE OPTIONS
Dynalite 11" rotor brake kit #140-11017
$450.00 upgrade on hub-to-hub suspension (plain iron rotors, plain finish calipers) Add $115.00 for drilled/coated/slotted rotors Add $115.00 for black or red powder coated caliper, or polished aluminum calipers

Dynalite 12.19" rotor brake kit #140-10440
$510.00 upgrade on hub-to-hub suspension (plain iron rotors, plain finish calipers) Add $115.00 for drilled/coated/slotted rotors Add $115.00 for black or red powder coated caliper, or polished aluminum calipers

Superlite 13" rotor brake kit #140-12275
$1000.00 upgrade on hub-to-hub suspension (plain iron rotors, plain finish calipers) Add $115.00 for drilled/coated/slotted rotors Add $115.00 for black or red powder coated calipers.Hub-to-hub kits do not include hoses of any kind, steering linkage, motor mounts, or sway bars.
Front sway bar - $180.00
3-joint steering hookup kit - $355.00
Braided stainless power steering hose kit - $145.00 Braided stainless brake hose kit - $80.00 Tubular motor mount kit - $65.00 LS adapter plates (use with tubular motor mount kit) - $75.00For the rear we offer a weld-in parallel 4-bar kit with either QA1 coilovers $1600.00 or RideTech Shockwaves $2200.00.

 

For that much money, I think that I'll stay with the stock height.

 

i checked the e-bay link. it says just get an alignment shop to fix you,er alignment. good luck with that if you don,t live in a big city. you have to have them heat up and bend the beams. i have checked with the shops where i live . all one of them. they don,t have the tools to do that. and they don,t know of any body that does. at least not where i live.

 

If you lower 3" with springs your camber will be screwed. No amount of alignment will fix that. Try to find some used drop beams or save your lunch money.

 

Guess I'll save lunch money. Wouldn't hurt to lose a little weight anyway

 

All.the kits are 1,000 or less for the twin I beam front only not including the flip.kit for the rear if you can get it for under 1,000 say 600 that's a deal .
I been looking myself only 4 places I know of sell kits for the twin I beam

Chassis tech / Air baggit cheapest
DJM dream beams
Auto Fab ....
FatMan Fabrication ... All are 3" front and rear flip kit 5/6 rear it will be 2k when your done ....

 

Decided to go with Crown Vic front suspension. It cost less, and the out come is better handling. Just haven't decided if I'm gonna scrap the whole frame and do a complete swap or front end only.

 

I did dream beams but i am also gonna cut half coil on mine. I have a slight positive camber with the dream beams. Its common from what i read. watch the videos. Cool dude too.