Rear Diff Repair Sterling 10.5
#1
Rear Diff Repair Sterling 10.5
Hey guys first time poster. I recently bought my first X. Let me start and say that I absolutely love this truck. Most amazing all around SUV/Truck I've ever owned. I own a construction company and a small parts/custom shop plus have 2 kids with me half of the week, its a mans mini van .
That being said it has some issues. When I first got it from the auction I did all the fluids immediately, noticed that the rear diff was dry. I have a mystery whirring noise coming from what sounds like the rear (its hard to tell in these things....) when I go over 65. I thought at first it was a U joint going bad, which may be the case but I also have a significant leak coming from around the yoke of my rear axle. So needless to say a rear end rebuild is immanent. Turning wrenches is my life but i've never really dove into a 3/4 rear axle as in depth as I want to do now.
When I changes the fluids when I first got it the diff itself looked ok (as far as I can tell) so my question is can I get away with just changing the ring and pinion (with all bearings and seals) and this will fix the problem? What causes the actual diff to go bad and how can you tell?
2nd question. Is there a specific type of U joints that should be used or are better than other ones on these things?
Thanks in advance!
That being said it has some issues. When I first got it from the auction I did all the fluids immediately, noticed that the rear diff was dry. I have a mystery whirring noise coming from what sounds like the rear (its hard to tell in these things....) when I go over 65. I thought at first it was a U joint going bad, which may be the case but I also have a significant leak coming from around the yoke of my rear axle. So needless to say a rear end rebuild is immanent. Turning wrenches is my life but i've never really dove into a 3/4 rear axle as in depth as I want to do now.
When I changes the fluids when I first got it the diff itself looked ok (as far as I can tell) so my question is can I get away with just changing the ring and pinion (with all bearings and seals) and this will fix the problem? What causes the actual diff to go bad and how can you tell?
2nd question. Is there a specific type of U joints that should be used or are better than other ones on these things?
Thanks in advance!
#2
I’d start with replacing the pinion seal to fix the leak.
it is an easy fix, the one caveat is you need to mark the nut to the shaft and reinstall it exactly the same amount as that determines the preload on the bearings. Probably a YouTube vid on the process. Overlook this and you will smoke the bearings by having the nut too tight or too loose. It needs to be exact.
as far as a full rebuild, Replace what is worn out or damaged, you need a dial indicator with magnetic base to check backlash and marking grease to check pinion depth and gear patterns. No offense but it is not a “turning wrenches” type jobs as it rerguires specialized tools and a heap of learned skills.
it is an easy fix, the one caveat is you need to mark the nut to the shaft and reinstall it exactly the same amount as that determines the preload on the bearings. Probably a YouTube vid on the process. Overlook this and you will smoke the bearings by having the nut too tight or too loose. It needs to be exact.
as far as a full rebuild, Replace what is worn out or damaged, you need a dial indicator with magnetic base to check backlash and marking grease to check pinion depth and gear patterns. No offense but it is not a “turning wrenches” type jobs as it rerguires specialized tools and a heap of learned skills.
#3
Welcome to the EX forum!
Check out the TECH FOLDER at the top of the EX forum page, in there you will find threads on both the bearing replacement and pinion seal replacement. I followed Sean's pinion seal replacement thread a few years and thousands of miles ago and it went well, still no leaks there!
I agree with Pirate, doing real work inside the diff requires some special tools and knowledge. I'm an OK backyard wrencher and will tackle almost anything outside of differentials and automatic transmissions, I have zero experience working on a diff with a good diff doctor (to learn from) and slushboxes contain magic that I unfortunately do not possess.
Check out the TECH FOLDER at the top of the EX forum page, in there you will find threads on both the bearing replacement and pinion seal replacement. I followed Sean's pinion seal replacement thread a few years and thousands of miles ago and it went well, still no leaks there!
I agree with Pirate, doing real work inside the diff requires some special tools and knowledge. I'm an OK backyard wrencher and will tackle almost anything outside of differentials and automatic transmissions, I have zero experience working on a diff with a good diff doctor (to learn from) and slushboxes contain magic that I unfortunately do not possess.
#5
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#8
And yeah, the TECH FOLDER contains tons of really good stuff for the EX!
#9
There aren't that many videos on a Ford 10.5 but there are plenty of videos on the Ford 8.8 which is set up the same way as a Ford 10.5, only difference being the 10.5 doesn't use c-clips, and is bigger obviously. Eric the car guy has good video series on setting up an 8.8. It really isn't that difficult, but it can be time consuming.
#10
Hope it is ok to post a link to another forum. Camo, I know you would agree this is a good knowledge base to start with. This is not a Sterling 10.5 but you will learn a lot.
https://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup
in my rockcrawling days I felt the same way as the OP, "I can do this!!" And I did. My first setup was 5.38s in an Isuzu 12 bolt rear, followed by a D44 front with arb air lockers. Graduated to a dana 60 then a GM 14 bolt. All of these were mine except the GM. All of these were operated in the worst conditions possible, high speed/locked up stuck in rocks... you name it, without an issue. The dana 44 front and Isuzu rear got the most abuse and miles before I sold them and were used by a buddy for many more miles of abuse with no issues.
Take your time, plan twice as long as you think you need and be patient.....very patient, and don't accept, "good enough."
https://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup
in my rockcrawling days I felt the same way as the OP, "I can do this!!" And I did. My first setup was 5.38s in an Isuzu 12 bolt rear, followed by a D44 front with arb air lockers. Graduated to a dana 60 then a GM 14 bolt. All of these were mine except the GM. All of these were operated in the worst conditions possible, high speed/locked up stuck in rocks... you name it, without an issue. The dana 44 front and Isuzu rear got the most abuse and miles before I sold them and were used by a buddy for many more miles of abuse with no issues.
Take your time, plan twice as long as you think you need and be patient.....very patient, and don't accept, "good enough."
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