Tie rod ends movement
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Tie rod ends movement
Hi guys:
Not that familiar with the front-end components on my 74 F100. My question is should there be any movement at all in the tie-rods? Basically, I'm able to grip either side (driver / passenger) outers and, although there's no movement side to side or up and down, there is movement when I grip either tie-rod end like I'm gripping a motorcycle accelerator and giving it gas (if that makes sense).
In other words, there is some movement that way, but it seems like it may supposed to be that way to allow for the steering action to work correctly, like where it connects to the Pitman arm (I believe that's what connects it to the steering box) or should I NOT be able to move anything at all in the steering assembly?
Thanks...
Not that familiar with the front-end components on my 74 F100. My question is should there be any movement at all in the tie-rods? Basically, I'm able to grip either side (driver / passenger) outers and, although there's no movement side to side or up and down, there is movement when I grip either tie-rod end like I'm gripping a motorcycle accelerator and giving it gas (if that makes sense).
In other words, there is some movement that way, but it seems like it may supposed to be that way to allow for the steering action to work correctly, like where it connects to the Pitman arm (I believe that's what connects it to the steering box) or should I NOT be able to move anything at all in the steering assembly?
Thanks...
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Thank you Somethingclever! That's what I thought. Just wanted to make sure.
I would assume best way to check axial movement would be to jack up the truck and check from the tires at 3 and 9 for tie rods and 12 and 6 for ball joints, correct?
I would assume best way to check axial movement would be to jack up the truck and check from the tires at 3 and 9 for tie rods and 12 and 6 for ball joints, correct?
Lead Driver
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steering linkage is easiest to check by having someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you're under the rig watching for slop in the joints.
Ball joints and king pins are best checked with the weight off them and a pry bar. if they're bad enough you can get slop without a bar they're pretty bad.
Ball joints and king pins are best checked with the weight off them and a pry bar. if they're bad enough you can get slop without a bar they're pretty bad.
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From: SW PA
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What they said x3
You can jack it up and do your 3 and 9 routine and find slop, but by the time you see it the amount of wear is pretty advanced. Using the torque of the steering system (substantial!) against the weight of the vehicle on the tires (very substantial!) is really the best (and easiest as long as you have a handy helper) way to find wear and tear while it's still pretty young.
And quite frankly, doing the steering test with a helper racking the steering wheel back and forth will highlight things you might not even have thought to look for. You can for example even see if a crack is developing in the frame near the steering box or leaf spring mount, and even if the rear spring bushings are loose!
It's a cool test actually. And a real eye-opener sometimes.
Paul
You can jack it up and do your 3 and 9 routine and find slop, but by the time you see it the amount of wear is pretty advanced. Using the torque of the steering system (substantial!) against the weight of the vehicle on the tires (very substantial!) is really the best (and easiest as long as you have a handy helper) way to find wear and tear while it's still pretty young.
And quite frankly, doing the steering test with a helper racking the steering wheel back and forth will highlight things you might not even have thought to look for. You can for example even see if a crack is developing in the frame near the steering box or leaf spring mount, and even if the rear spring bushings are loose!
It's a cool test actually. And a real eye-opener sometimes.
Paul
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