Greetings:

So, what is the BEST API SN PLUS spec motor oil?? I was trying to find a LIST of API SN PLUS motor oils, but came up empty...

Appreciate your response.


biz

 

Have you done any reading at bobistheoilguy.com ?

 

Define "best" & for what application?
In general if the lube says in writing that it meets SN+ & or it says in writing it is licensed to meet a manufacturers specification, with the license number in print on the container, we would likely be good to go.
All without guess work about what's in the lube recipe, as it would have been tested to meet SN+ & the manufacturer would have tested the recipe to see that it met any additional specification the manufacturer required, that's not tested for in the SN+ specifications & would have issued a license number for the lube marketer to apply to their packaging to show us it meets the manufacturers additional requirements their engines need.
Generally the SN+ lubes had their Calcium, & Sodium detergents greatly lowered to address LSPI = Low Speed Pre Ignition, or sometimes called Super Knock. This was mostly a problem in turbo direct injection engines that were lugged at low rpm, but some Non Turbo direct injection engine designs also suffered from LSPI, so if any of our equipment has a DI, or Turbo-DI engine, we would be wise to use the new SN+ formulation.
SN+ is also formulated to reduce piston deposits, so we'll find that most SN+ lubes are now at least semi-synthetic formulations in order to meet the new specifications.
If your trying to tweak the lube choice for a particular engine, or drive cycle, post up the equipment configuration & application & maybe the forum can suggest some SN+ recipes for consideration.
More thoughts for consideration.

 

I've tried, but that site is kinda terrible to find any info. Search and search and search...and get lucky if anything comes up.

But, if you have a link that you can point to, then I am happy to read up of the topic...


biz

 

2017 F150 SuperCrew 157" Lariat FX4 3.5L Ecoboost 4x4 3.55s -- which is in my sig. Daily drive, towing on weekends, ALL general purpose truck.

Hmmm, I only know of one "best"...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wiki

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Thanks.
biz

 

Bob is the Oil Guy has a ton of information. It starts with just reading what people post about their own experience, with a particular oil. People will also post used oil analysis results. Just keep in mind that some people are brand loyal. And a used oil analysis posted, did not come from your engine. A lot of specs. A lot of data. A lot of opinions. Use the search feature to look up whatever oil you might be interested in.

If you change your oil at OEM recommended intervals, you can use just about any oil which has the API approval logo, in the weight specified in your owners manual. It's people who want to extend their oil change interval who are usually looking for some magic juju which will allow the oil to last longer. You're not operating a custom built engine, or racing, so you do not need a special oil with special additives.

 

Really?

What is the "best" color for a truck?

What is the "best" tire?

Who makes the "best" hamburger?

I could go on .... and on . . . and on.

 

 

So what?

Oil A flows 1% better.

Oil B has 2% less volatility.

Oil C has X PPM of moly.

Oil D has X PPM of phosphorus.

Oil E has <1% less wear on a scuff test.

All really cool lab results, but does not make one any "better" than the other.

You have bought into the "American" mentality. More is always better.

For example, here is a video of an "expert" who claims synthetic oil is "better" than dino oil based on cold flow properties. The only problem is, in his example, he chills the oil to -35*F. I do not live in a climate that will ever reach -35*F, and more importantly, I will never visit anywhere in the world where the temperature is -35*F.


"Good enough" is all that you and your engine needs.

Engines are machines that are designed to operate within certain parameters. So long as the engine is operated within those parameters, the engine will last to its designed duty cycle (currently 150,000 - 200,000 miles for gasoline engines). The OEMs specify certain qualities for the oil used it's respective engines. So long as you meet those specification, the engines will operate just fine.

Any API certified oil meeting the specs required by the OEM for your engine is more than capable of getting your engine to 150,000 to 200,000 miles with no problems.

There is a cadre of people out there who claim that they will keep their car/truck "forever". And certainly some do. But statistics show that only a single digit percentage of people keep their cars more than 8-10 years. So the number of people driving their car/truck more than 200,000 miles is very small. But you might be the exception.

I have been playing with cars for over 45 years. And I hang out with car guys. I have never had, and I do not know anybody who has ever had, an engine failure of any kind, much less an oil-related engine failure. And many of those engines have gone to 150,000+ miles using generic motor oil.

The benefit of using the "best" oil, if such a thing exists, is a myth. It's all marketing.

But if buying the "best" makes you feel good, go for it

 

ahhh, yes I see what you are referring to. OK, then the "best rated" oil?? That better? Surely, a "best rated" oil for API SN Plus has been tested and identified...


biz

 

Got it. Amazonbasics oil.

Second video was much better. Claims he would not run it longer than 100hrs or only 3000 miles. Not very good...IMHO.

Not the BEST, but then apparently NO best exists. Which I am fine with...

biz

 

For some of us, the best oil is the oil that we get at the best price point.

For some of us, the belief is that the formulation of the oil is directly related to engine life.

Just like with everything else in life, you have to make the choice which best suits your beliefs. That's why you can consume your meals from 7Eleven, or spend $100 on a meal. End result is the same.

 

"Best" rated by who?

"Best" rated in what category? Wear? Sludge? Viscosity breakdown?

Etc., etc., etc.

If you look, your definition contains subjective terms such as "desirable". Therefore, what is "best" is in the eye of the beholder.

So the "best" oil depends upon who you ask. So there is no single "best".

 

Personally, I do not like spending more money than I have to for anything.

As far as formulation, I am not a petroleum chemist. So when my owners manual says "Use 10w-30, SN oil", I buy the cheapest 10w-30 SN oil that I can find. The OEMs and other members of API have already figure out the chemistry for me.

Many people do not truly understand how much marketing costs add to the price of products. Generic products are not necessarily inexpensive because they are made cheaply, but because they are not saddled with huge marketing costs.

The head of marketing for Mercedes-Benz once said that you cannot make an inexpensive luxury car. If you price the car too cheaply, he said, no one will believe that it is luxurious.

So don't fall into the trap of thinking that expensive = better.

 

You should be fine with any properly rated oil, synthetic blend in the OEM specified weight. Change at OEM specified miles, calendar time, or engine hours. Use the recommended amount.

Try not to re-engineer what the manufacturer researched and developed. Some people really believe that they can "use 2 quarts synthetic 20W-50, 5 quarts of conventional straight 30, and make my own super towing, racing blend".