I'm in the process of replacing the blown up 5.0 in my 91 F-150. I found a smoking deal on a 75000 mile 5.0 so a 5.8 is not an option. My question is on performance parts for the 5.0. What's the hot set up? I'd rather not swap cams, but heads etc would be cool. Do parts for Mustang 5.0's also work on f-150's? Sorry if these seem like dumb questions, but I'm not up on my Fords yet. I'm a reformed Jeep owner trying to learn the ways of the Ford. Thanks in advance for the help!!

 

Moved to 302 from from 87-96 forum, user doesn't have e-mail notification turned on.

 

Power depends on budget. The stock E7TE heads are trash so pretty much any upgrade from GT-40 irons, Edelbrock, AFR, Brodix, AFR (my fav's). With a head swap you'll need a custom chip made to compensate for the additional flow.

What vehicle did the 75K mi motor come from?

 

The motor came out of a 92 Bronco that met an untimely demise due to an elm tree and a drunken moron. My budget isn't huge right away, but I'm more looking to do it part by part as I can afford. I'm wondering what would be a good starting point, heads? Intake? Headers? I want to get the most bang for my buck, so any direction you can steer me would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Try the gt40 heads and headers.

 

That's sad, I love Bronco's!

That motor should be a roller setup block and have a bit more power than my ol' flat tappet '88 block.

Stock 302 intake manifold flows great, keep it. Stock TB is plently large. Mustang shorty headers bolt up and work fine...I ran them on mine before I went with Hooker long tubes.

GT-40 irons off a 93-95 Cobra can be picked up for abotu $500 with the 1.7:1 roller rockers. These with some mild port work would really wake up that 302.

I'd get the heads on before you toss in the motor...head swaps are LOTS of work.

 

Jeeps are cool.

GT-40p heads and you'll need the special headers to match. Put a new timing chain on that puppy. The rest can wait.

 

I am gonna go against the grain and say if you are on a budget, then a cam swap would be more bang for the buck. You want low end anyways so your heads can flow enough cfm to make low end torque, optimal no but enough. I know you said you didn't wanna cam swap but it would be just as easy to do as a head swap. And once it is in the truck it would be more of a pain to do, later. Pcmenten has a good point change the timing chain regardless. Either way would be fine though, Good luck

 

Thanks for all the great suggestions! I was wondering who does computer upgrades if I go with the head or cam swap, (someone mentioned this would need to be done) and how much $$$ are we talking for a custom chip? Are filter kits like the K+N FIPK worth the money? I've heard conflicting stories there. Also what cam should i go with? If i get GT-40 heads is there a coresponding cam? If I'm going to do this, I want to do it right. And yes Pcmenten, jeeps are cool. Even cold when it comes to Minnesota winters!! And the rust monster got it (the frame rusted in half at the rear spring perches!!)

Thanks again guys!!!

 

A change of cam will require reprogramming the computer.

There are some very experienced tuners who say that the stock cam will work fine, especially with speed-density. You can tune bloody hell out of the heads, intake manifold, and exhaust headers and make mucho power with the stock cam.

If you need more power than the stock cam, with a hightly tuned induction system, can make, then you need a bigger engine like a stroker.

Please don't use a K&N filter. Please.

The best setup, especially for the dollar, is the setup that was on the later Explorers. The GT-40p heads, and the Explorer intake manifold. That's why I said put the GT-40p heads on and the rest can wait. If you have a good bottom end and GT-40p heads, you can use the stock intake until you get the money and time for the Explorer intake.

You'll need the special headers. The rest is color-by-numbers. The next big trick is to retune the computer.

Speaking of headers, the mid-length headers make great torque and help mileage.

It this isn't enought power, you won't get where you really want to go by using cams, underdrive pulleys, phony air filters, and fuel system magnets.

 

If i do the GT-40 heads and headers and explorer intake, am i going to have to re-program the computer? Are the heads and intakes something that is readily availible through the boneyard? What's a good header source? What are your recommendations for air filtration? Stock airbox sufficient? Sorry for all the questions, but like Gramps said, the only stupid question is one you didn't ask. And I think I would be better off putting all this stuff on before in goes between the frame rails.

Thanks again, your guidance is much appreciated!!

 

If you want to go with the gt-40p heads you can get headers for your truck specifically from central coast mustang for $219, if interested 661-823-2400, there are other headers that would work but its hit and miss. If you go with the gt-40 no "p" heads then you can use any aftermarket header. On the plus side I have heard the "p" headers are acutally a better design than regular ones due to the fact they have a better exhaust exit angle, I cannot be sure of that but that is what I have heard, and the "p" headers will fit any head. The only thing that my require you to get a chip change would be the cam swap however there are cams you can get that will be okay without a chip change. A custom chip runs from around 300+. Good luck

 

Some of your stuff I disagree on....

Not all cam swaps will require a tune. Keep it mild like a 204/210 114lsa and you can get by. While you can just get by, I recommend a full tune. If you change up the size of the cc of the heads and the intake runner volume the computer probably will not keep up.

No, a larger cam will gain more power on the same cubes with great heads. The stock 302 cam is right about 187/193 duration...that is VERY puny. It falls on its face at 4500rpms...I don't you can make much power with it. Basically you are trying to say using that cam on a larger motor is okay...it is not.

I've used K&N's for years with no problems...but I do not live in super dusty conditions either. I run open filters with the K&N Precharger.

The stock 302 truck intake flows better than the Explorer one. The Explorer one is just an EGRless Cobra intake...if you have even seen the 302 truck lower, its ports are HUGE. The Holley Systemax II is based off it. The GT-40P heads are a great value and can be ran with regular 5.0 shorty headers...just spark plug changes are very time consuming. The P specific headers are pretty expensive if you are on a budget.

Find some TRUE GT-40 irons from Cobras and some Explorers. Those will take any 5.0 Mustang header no problem. If you are going to spend the time to go with midlengths, go with long tubes. I have Hookers and love them.

True GT-40 irons and a matching set of headers would be cheaper than the GT-40P and matching headers. Both will yield the same power results.

Your last bit about cams and pulleys is totally off base also. Obviously you have never been around the performance realm to know what works and what does not. I never see people doing head swaps with out cam swaps. Lots of weekend warriors also do cam swaps...cams make power. Pulley sets reduce drag making power. I've had them on my truck for almost two years with no problems. Go ask around on other performace sites if you think I am full of it.

Feel free to flame me if you wish but I am sick of people replying to posts when they have no first hand knowledge themselves of parts. I mean you actually used them, not you heard it from someone, you buddy's friend's cousin's uncle crap.

 

What do u mean by port work?

Could this be done by hand and lots of time, or is this profesionally down only?

 

Port work like: smoothing/deburring the runners; slightly widening the intake and exhaust runners; cleaning up the combustion chamber; smoothing out the valve throat areas. That port work I mentioned above would run between $200-400 depending on where you go.

This can be done by hand, I'd get some junk heads to get some experience before diving into this. If you over port you can cut into the water jackets of the heads by accident and well...you lost a set of heads.

If you scooped up a set of GT-40 irons that needed a rebuild for around $200, had them rebuilt with new guides and springs, and ported you may have about $650 invested in a set of pretty good flowing heads. BUT I have seen Edelbrock Performer heads sell for this price used. I suppose the best deal would be to find a set of already ported GT-40 irons and run them or just bolt them on as-is. Heck I have seen fully ported abd rebuild E7TE's go for about $350-450 that make impressive power

It is all budget/performace requirements limited I suppose...either way any head other than the stock E7TE is a better product.