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Can anyone point me to a thread where it leads me on how to troubleshoot which door/door sensor is acting up? I just picked the X up yesterday and have tried the whole open and close deal to no avail. Thanks
Spray some silicone lubricant into each latch point and open/close each door several times and you should be good. Mine did this not long ago. Don’t forget all three latches in the back.
Spray some silicone lubricant into each latch point and open/close each door several times and you should be good. Mine did this not long ago. Don’t forget all three latches in the back.
X2. It worked for me, took a few sprays and opening and closing the doors a few times. As SmackDaddy mentioned Don’t forget the rear hatch latches. Good luck!
It finally stopped raining and the silicone can says not recommended below 60 degrees F or in high humidity. I'm guessing it is just the flow rate that is affected right?
Mine was in the rear hatch, it has one on each side. There's button plunger switches mounted to the bottom of the latch assembly. Crud drains down into them and the get stuck down. Focus your cleaner spay to the bottom part of latch and don't be afraid to slam them, or hit with air. I took all my latches apart to do the tin foil mod on the power locks and removed them all the clean them good.
So far I have spray siliconed the 4 latches on the rear hatch as well as all 4 doors and the problem persists. I replaced the door actuator in my driver rear door because it was non-op but it still has the light for door ajar on. Now I am dealing with the fact that I finally freed up the rear hatch key lock only to find out my hatch is not locking at all...
Somewhere here in the X forum recently, someone was having an issue with either the door ajar light, or an intermittent window or door lock switch. They found a broken, or near broken wire in the boot connecting the body to the door.
Maybe some relevance to your situation. Post year and maybe one of us will have the proper electrical book to help identify the proper wire.
Somewhere here in the X forum recently, someone was having an issue with either the door ajar light, or an intermittent window or door lock switch. They found a broken, or near broken wire in the boot connecting the body to the door.
Maybe some relevance to your situation. Post year and maybe one of us will have the proper electrical book to help identify the proper wire.
Did you do the open and door close deal for the full 20 minute deal? There is a thread that explains it. I had the issue and for the longest time all I had to do was blow compressed air in all the latches and spray WD-40 and I was good. However late last year that trick stopped working, so I had to figure out which door was the culprit. I forgot how it went, but you would open a door and then close it and wait for 20 minutes and if the light went off or stayed on that was the one. Again I can't remember exactly how it went, but the thread outlines it. I found that it was my drivers side door, so I ordered a new sensor from RockAuto and it fixed my issue.
Did you do the open and door close deal for the full 20 minute deal? There is a thread that explains it. I had the issue and for the longest time all I had to do was blow compressed air in all the latches and spray WD-40 and I was good. However late last year that trick stopped working, so I had to figure out which door was the culprit. I forgot how it went, but you would open a door and then close it and wait for 20 minutes and if the light went off or stayed on that was the one. Again I can't remember exactly how it went, but the thread outlines it. I found that it was my drivers side door, so I ordered a new sensor from RockAuto and it fixed my issue.
I haven't heard of the 20 minute deal but I'm not sure if it will work as the PO of my X has done the dome light/running board override mod. I have a toggle switch so it's all on or all off and as far as I can tell there is no timer attached.
On the subject of the door sensors, where are they and how hard are they to replace?
So I had this issue too recently. It was also not allowing me to lock the vehicle completely (two horn honks on double lock, not the single honk per normal)
Diagnosis was easy as it wasn't locking that door and could still be opened. It was my rear tailgate (not barn doors).
For it to work again, I used WD40 and got the straw all the way into the latch mechanism and gave it several good bursts. This is so it lubes parts of the mechanism you don't see too.
After several opens and closes ... solved. I did all doors afterwards, including the hinges.
Do the above... I'm confident that will solve your issue without having to replace sensors. If you've done it already, do it some more!
So I had this issue too recently. It was also not allowing me to lock the vehicle completely (two horn honks on double lock, not the single honk per normal)
Diagnosis was easy as it wasn't locking that door and could still be opened. It was my rear tailgate (not barn doors).
For it to work again, I used WD40 and got the straw all the way into the latch mechanism and gave it several good bursts. This is so it lubes parts of the mechanism you don't see too.
After several opens and closes ... solved. I did all doors afterwards, including the hinges.
Do the above... I'm confident that will solve your issue without having to replace sensors. If you've done it already, do it some more!
Every time I have locked it via the remote since I have purchased it, it had done the double honk. When I press the manual lock button on the driver's door before I close the door it has locked all the doors but the driver's door unlocks maybe two seconds later. Could this be the problem door?
When I purchased it I went through every door lock with spray silicone and replaced the driver's rear door actuator. My rear hatch (not barn doors) was stuck and I freed it up with spray white lithium grease and have never had a problem since with said hatch.
Not to mention the ding ding ding drives me insane...
Every time I have locked it via the remote since I have purchased it, it had done the double honk. When I press the manual lock button on the driver's door before I close the door it has locked all the doors but the driver's door unlocks maybe two seconds later. Could this be the problem door?
When I purchased it I went through every door lock with spray silicone and replaced the driver's rear door actuator. My rear hatch (not barn doors) was stuck and I freed it up with spray white lithium grease and have never had a problem since with said hatch.
Not to mention the ding ding ding drives me insane...
Sounds like your driver's side door could be the problem door then. A big problem if it never locks...
A double honk is not the norm. Do you hear he actuator working when you lock all doors? If so, just give it more grease and keep opening and locking, over and over. It'll free up at some point.
Sounds like your driver's side door could be the problem door then. A big problem if it never locks...
A double honk is not the norm. Do you hear he actuator working when you lock all doors? If so, just give it more grease and keep opening and locking, over and over. It'll free up at some point.
I have a habit of manually hitting the door lock button before I close the door. When I do this, all locks function as normal and lock. But, about 2 seconds after hitting the button, the drivers door unlocks itself. At that point I can manually push the plunger down to lock it or use the remote.
Could I have a bad door sensor at my drivers door? I know the actuator functions properly.
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