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I got my headers on today, and in order to hook up the ebp sensor I'm going to have to make a longer tube. Opinions on deleting it? I've read some threads on it with differing opinions. I can make a longer tube, that's not a big deal, but if it's not really needed why spend the money on it?
I’ve used the backpressure sensor output when troubleshooting a possible turbo problem. I think the backpressure and boost are supposed to be very roughly one to one, 20 psi boost should have very roughly 20 psi backpressure. I’d keep the thing.
I have always wondered the same thing about boost and exhaust back pressure. BUT, I went to clean my EBP tube a while back and it is plugged solid and I could not get it opened up. I am completely stock and I can hit 15-16 psi with my truck and it seems to run perfectly fine. 17 mpg with empty mixed driving and normally in the 15-16 range daily driving. Will my truck run even better if I get a new tube? Is my sensor defaulting to a specific number since it isn't getting anything? I would think the computer would only default this if the sensor itself was bad. I have read lots of discussion on this topic and I don't know that I have every fully gotten the answer if it is needed or not. I have seen the EBP sensor bypass gizmos to.
I was doing some reading on this, and saw where someone ran the sensor to the map line. Was said that he had no problems with it like that, and it actually shifted better. The truck was a automatic btw. Just a idea to throw out there to think about.
I’m pretty sure the only thing the exhaust backpressure sensor controls is the exhaust backpressure valve. A lot of us have removed the valve so the sensor has no effect on the engine performance,it just provixes just information if we want to know what the back pressure is.
i couldn’t get my tube unclogged either so I took it off and heated it red hot with a torch and burned the carbon out of it.
There’s a fairly recent thread where a member here routed the exhaust backpressure to the boost sensor. As I recall the result was a little better performance at the cost of a slight drop in fuel economy.
When the valve is operational such as cold mornings the PCM try's to control the valve to aid in faster warmups. The PCM does this by duty cycling the valve and depends on the EBP sensor to inform it on actual back pressure. PCM seldom closes the valve all the way and it depends on EOT, IAT and drivers power demand. On a cold startup the PCM cycles the valve and expects a certain back pressure. If no increase in back pressure or the valve itself is deleted or unplugged the PCM will ignore the function
The most back pressure the PCM will allow is 43.5 PSI which includes atmospheric. I've seldom seen that high number but a few times approaching it. Also when the valve is operational such as cruising speeds boost goes to zero. unless you demand more power with your foot. The average is probably in the high 20's and high 30's. EBP sensor date is interesting to watch real time when the valve is operational, otherwise it is quite boring. I've never actually deleted the sensor or had a tube plugged but did the delete pedestal, a few times just unplugging it and didn't notice any performance or shifting issues.
With a bad sensor, such as non functional or unplugged I believe it just defaults to sea level pressure. Maybe this could account to others reporting shifting issues, don't know. .
Thanks Mike. It will be easier to just hook it up. I will probably end up with multiple tuners on my hydra, and one might do it one way, one the other.
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