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I was wanting to change to an open air cleaner, and im afraid I'm not too familiar with what's going on with mine to see if some the things connected to it are irrelevant at this point.
There are a couple of things heading into the air cleaner assembly. One paper/foil hose heading to the charcoal canister, then two smaller ones that I have no idea what they do/having a hard time tracing them. (both pictured)
Additionally there's also the preheat hose coming up from the exhaust manifold...which from what I understand is to help the engine in cold weather? Im sure one of you guys can explain better.
1977 F100 Ranger XLT
351M
A/C
What would you recommend I do? Everything is pretty stock under the hood, and Im wanting to start making small changes that actually improve the engine. Not looking to make a performance engine out of it, but if I can make it runs smoother and more consistently Im interested.
What's in my list so far:
- Currently dealing with an exhaust manifold leak to which I'm considering instead of replacing, installing headers and an exhaust.
- Electric conversion of distributor using something like Petronix ignitor and a new coil
You'll get lots of differing opinions on this. And most will be right. If it was mine, I'd do just what I've done on all my old vehicles... use an aftermarket intake and carburetor w/ manual choke, install headers, get rid of all the smog stuff. I make sure I have a good PCV setup. And since you've got a C6 transmission, I'd replace the vacuum modulator hose.
If you're keeping the stock intake manifold and electric choke carburetor, you'll probably be better off keeping the air cleaner setup you've got. That heat riser really helps during warmup on cold days. But do fix any issues, like that PCV breather hose. Make sure both sides of your PCV setup are good. Lots of folks ignore the PCV system. Some even delete it, then wonder why their engine leaks oil at the rear main, front crank seal, etc. And I would replace the exhaust manifold gaskets or the manifolds if cracked. And run dual exhaust.
AND... don't throw away the stock air cleaner ... Somebody here will want it..... (me ... among others).
I am going the opposite direction to what mike said above. I want mine back stock and my aluminum air cleaner is split in SEVERAL places.
I have to put an exclamation point on what Mike said... Make sure whatever you do, that you have a good Positive Crank Ventilation system. Front and rear...
Mike
The truck does have a new carburetor put in, stock stock specs im guessing. If I were to keep the current air cleaner set up, but go with headers and exhaust...I would lose the heat riser no? should I stick to exhaust manifolds in that case?
The way an engine is designed from the factory, it uses vacuum and heat from sources on the engine.
If you start stopping this up and re-routing that, you are changing the design of the way the engine "eats and breathes".
SO.... be careful what you eliminate.
What does the entire engine look like?
Do you have a 2 bbl carb or a 4 bbl carb?
Where you live has a lot to do with needing a heat riser going to your air cleaner.... (IMHO)
Throw us a few more bones.
Because that will help performance instead of pulling outside air in?
Ugh this is what I don't understand. I'm pretty sure having the original fresh air intake it MUCH better than the open air cleaner just sucking in whatever air happens to be around the engine. Even acts a bit like a micro-turbo because the air is being forced in when you use the fresh air intake.
I wouldn't mind using an original cleaner assembly and at least using the fresh air pipe, even with an aftermarket carb/intake
^What he said. Open element air filters draw in heated under hood air, reducing engine performance. If you don't want to stay stock at least get a snorkeled, sealed air cleaner and draw air from in front of the radiator support or the cowl. Like this
^What he said. Open element air filters draw in heated under hood air, reducing engine performance. If you don't want to stay stock at least get a snorkeled, sealed air cleaner and draw air from in front of the radiator support or the cowl. Like this
If I had it to do over again I would use stock manifolds but hand port them out for better flow. Then one could use alot of the stock setup for a better daily driver. I like the sleeper/stock look these days, but that's just me. You could add a 4 bbl intake and carb and still use the stock air cleaner. You can take the inlet pipe off another air cleaner and add it to your existing one if you want more flow. Not that it really needs it, it just looks cool and is a fun small project. Also, a performance air filter. Overall I think the factory air cleaner is perfectly good for any engine you could put in there.
What does the entire engine look like?
Do you have a 2 bbl carb or a 4 bbl carb?
Where you live has a lot to do with needing a heat riser going to your air cleaner.... (IMHO)
Throw us a few more bones.
Connecticut, so definitely quite a few very cold drivable mornings months before salt is everywhere.
Well, I definitely would love to keep everything stock as well. I guess is a combination of not being too knowledgable and having friends with different set ups and thinking that's what I need to do.
Should I just have the leak repaired and just replace the exhaust manifolds to OEM ones? and ditch the headers/exhaust effort?
01-30-2019, 08:17 AM
