Lubricating a new straight six engine

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Jan 29, 2019 | 04:52 PM

avg

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Lubricating a new straight six engine

A rebuilder explained to me some time ago how to lubricate a newly rebuilt straight six engine ('63 F-100) before firing it up to avoid damaging it. I think the procedure went: remove the distributor. Insert a long 1/4" hex rod attached to a drill through the distributor mount and into the oil pump. Run the drill to spin the oil pump. Remove the hex rod and replace the distributor but leave it disconnected. Cold crank the engine to spread oil in the cylinders. Connect the distributor. The engine is ready to start. Does this sound right? Can anyone provide details? How long does the hex rod need to be? Are there any other precautions which should be taken?

What I really need to do is prep an engine in a truck which has been sitting for a long time. I'm guessing the same procedure will work. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

-David

Jan 30, 2019 | 08:14 AM

Crop Duster

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From: Tri Cities, TN

I believe the oil pump drive in the 223 is not a hex but a slot, kinda like a screwdriver. If this is just an old engine that you are trying to fire up after sitting, pre-oiling it really isn't necessary. Just pull the plugs squirt some oil in the cylinders, spin it with the starter for 5 or 6 seconds, put the plugs in an fire it up. I don't know what other prep you've done but if that truck has sat for a long time you need to make sure the entire fuel system is clean before you try to start it. On something like that I usually disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump and use a 1 gallon can for fuel until I know the thing is going to run. Also while you are spinning it make sure you have good blue fire at the plugs. Good Luck! It's always fun to wake one up after a long sleep.

Jan 30, 2019 | 02:31 PM

avg

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Thanks. The 1 gallon can is for feeding fuel? Would you drain the tank and fill with fresh fuel?

Jan 30, 2019 | 04:10 PM

TheMonson

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From: Malheur County

Since this is a new engine, I would follow the advice of your builder. I've also heard it's important to not spin the oil pump too fast but in all honesty I have no idea what "too fast" actually means, suppose the drill can spin the shaft faster than it would ordinarily be spun during normal operation? I've never done it but will be soon, figure I'll use the high torque mode of my drill to help regulate the speed.

And yes in that example the 1 gallon can would be to deliver fuel. I think radiator shops can boil tanks to get the rust out and coat them to prevent further rust development and getting other debris into your fuel system.

Jan 30, 2019 | 08:36 PM

Convoy Driver

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I was in the heavy duty engine business for 30 years. Preluding an engine that had not been turned over for 12 months or more is industry standard procedure. You can do that by connecting an external low pressure pump (something like a garden sprayer hand pump) or in the case of the 6 cylinder Ford, removing the distributor and turning the oil pump with a drill motor works well. I do that with mine. On the 240 I used a hex with a 3/8 socket end, add a 6 inch extension, turn the pump while observing the oil coming from the rockers. The valve cover should be off. On an overhaul with new cam and lifters use a zinc additive at first start. My machine shop describes the same as your rebuilder said. But never “just crank it on the starter” with dry bearings.