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Thanks for all the info so I can be lazy and benefit from your research, testing and $.
As for the level sender, I think I will modify like Tomahawk did. I bought a new sender for the ford aux tank, so I can seal the pot out of it and graft it into the GM hardware.
Plan B would be to make a converter out of a micro controller and a FET. It would be much more simple if circuit current was low, could use a digital pot, but a FET can be used to make a variable resistor. Use Micro's ADC/current source to read GM sender resistance and then drive FET with corresponding ford resistance value with a lookup table.
No problem! I use as much info as I can from others.
I didn't modify the sender because I plan to modify the cluster to look originalish but be able to access all the serial data from the engine. I don't know when I will get time to do that though.
Holley sniper EFI. Needs 58psi I think. Which pump did you use?
The sniper system can be had with a semi-complete fuel system so considering that route, but easy enough to do an in-tank pump. The burb fuel tank/sender can be had in either flavor, trrying to decide....
Holley sniper EFI. Needs 58psi I think. Which pump did you use?
The sniper system can be had with a semi-complete fuel system so considering that route, but easy enough to do an in-tank pump. The burb fuel tank/sender can be had in either flavor, trrying to decide....
I recommend these guys. They have kits to beef up the wiring for a in-take pump and nice pumps: Racetronix
so I got a 255l pump but wish I would have gone bigger because I will probably go e85 and may need more pump.
Can you provide a PN for those pre-made AN hoses from tanks to filter/reg/lines? thanks!
SUM-220628B adapter
SUM-220627B adapter
CMB-03-0263 regulator and fittings
658510 2 ft line
RUS-658530 4 ft line
SUM-220633-2B female an fitting 1 of 2
SUM-220634-2B female an fitting 2 of 2
SUM-220632B male/male an fitting
So all the above fitting are aluminum. They are anodized so I am not worried about steel/aluminum corrosion but if I was doing it again I would use as much steel as possible. I ended up buy a bunch of fittings later from these guys https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/. You can buy steel fittings for cheap and they are pretty reasonable on making Hydraulic hoses. I used hydraulic hoses for transmission and power steering. I also flared all my steel fuel line to 37 degrees. It was easier to keep the fitting styles the same and 37 degree in used for all lines I have seen on military planes.
Luckily I keep this info in a spreadsheet. It should save time when I working on the truck years from now.
I was just just being cheap... it is amazing they charge different prices for different colors.
I am also hard enough on my stuff that NOS is not a good idea for me.
I wouldn't call your custom fuel system cheap in any way. haha I think I know what you spent....
Nitrous is always a good idea on anything with a motor. I went with a 255lph walbro, but I think it is marginal for the 75 hp shot I plan to run to get me to 500 hp.
It looks like you have fuel fill on the left side like original. The suburban's had the fuel fill on the right. Did you mount tank backwards to achieve this? Looks like it is the 25 gallon?
I got my 31g tank and associated parts. The 31g tank has a angle to it for departure clearance. It hangs low so I think I will go with a right side fill. Wish I had the tank before I made the rear cross member.....
It looks like you have fuel fill on the left side like original. The suburban's had the fuel fill on the right. Did you mount tank backwards to achieve this? Looks like it is the 25 gallon?
I got my 31g tank and associated parts. The 31g tank has a angle to it for departure clearance. It hangs low so I think I will go with a right side fill. Wish I had the tank before I made the rear cross member.....
Ya, mine is in backwards. Does your truck have a receiver? My recover hangs down lower than the the tank.
The truck had quite the custom hitch welded directly to both the frame and bumper extending up to the axle. Had to cut it all out in pieces. Plan to re-build the whole thing into one piece that bolts on. Truck is going to drag the receiver when off-roading so trying to keep it up as high as possible. The existing setup is already pretty compact. The tank hangs below the hitch by about 1"., but is back farther and has a relief angle on it. Should drag hitch first but tank will need armor/skid plate of some type.
Another question regarding the fuel pump. I have a Walbro 255 lph. I bought a walbro 'GM' style install kit with strainer. The sending unit/fuel hat also came with a install kit. Both have the same strainer/sock that is supposed to snap in. the sizes are way off. I think you have similar pump and same sender. How do you make this work? Thanks
That base definitely looks different than mine did.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gca758-2 was the kit I got. The kit ended up being useless though. I didn't use a thing out of it besides the pump. Maybe different size sock can be purchased that is available? Is it a genuine walbro? I read there are fakes but mine had numbers on it that verified it was walbro if I remember correctly.
Ah, I see. thanks. Looks like I need a different strainer to work with this pump, that also works with the pickup assembly. crap. Or a different pump. The joys of hot roding.
T1 automotive bought walbro, and the 'walbro' pumps are labeled T1. I think I have the real deal. Bought on amazon for $50.
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