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I'm trying a NOCO Genius G7200 smart charger with their repair. Which is a function on their charger, according to their web page is "A progressive battery recovery method for improving heavily sulfated and old 12V batteries that restore lost battery capacity."
According to Optima. the parallel charging works well (I've done this many times) with the second battery you need to have at least 10.5 volts between both batteries, once the optima (or other brand battery) reaches 10.5 v on it's own you can take the second battery off and continue charging on it's own.
I'm thinking of ordering one of these industrial vehicle batteries for the 6V system in my 1950 F1 in the Spring. Amazon has it for $95. Made in 'MURICA, too (which is a huge selling point for me lately).
Thing to keep in mind, unlike alternators, with a generator system (6 or 12 volt) little to no charging is done at idle, whenever the regulator cutout is open the entire electrical system is supported by the battery alone. If the charging system or battery is marginal the battery will get smoked in short order. If using a conventional lead acid buy the biggest, heaviest battery that will fit. Everybody looks at CCAs but there's more to it than that.
I ruined my son's battery from his Mazda Miata. I charged it with my regular charger. The sides started bulging out. It was only a year and a half old. Took it to the place we bought it and he explained that batteries like this need a special charger. The Miata battery is kept in the trunk. I forget the name they give these batteries but they are used in vehicles that the batteries are in trunks or passenger compartments becuase these do not spill if knocked over.
Thing to keep in mind, unlike alternators, with a generator system (6 or 12 volt) little to no charging is done at idle, whenever the regulator cutout is open the entire electrical system is supported by the battery alone. If the charging system or battery is marginal the battery will get smoked in short order. If using a conventional lead acid buy the biggest, heaviest battery that will fit. Everybody looks at CCAs but there's more to it than that.
So it's not so much the "larger battery" but a higher "reserve capacity" that is beneficial to the generator-based systems? They make another Deka model (902) that has a higher reserve capacity
Here is an interesting off topic story about batteries. My 2008 Honda CR-V was in need of a battery. I could tell because it was taking longer to start the engine. I bought it used with a NAPA battery already in it. So I didn't know how old it was. the person that put it in didn't pop out the date things. On the side of the battery was the code B3. NAPA said that means March 2013. I took it to our local auto electric shop. His reader said "Bad.... Replace." He said he could have a new battery in tomorrow. I was going to take my battery home and out it back in the car. He said I can do that but a bad battery can burn up your alternator and leave you dead on the road.
He said these new cars are not like my old trucks or even like 1970s cars. He said a bad battery will not accept a charge and it will burn up the alternator.
The Volvo redblock engines (200, 700, and 900 series cars) where actually notorious for having bad batteries damage the alternators, in particular the built-in voltage regulators on them. Fun time chasing down electrical gremlins when it actually COMES from the battery messing with other components instead of just being "dead".
So it's not so much the "larger battery" but a higher "reserve capacity" that is beneficial to the generator-based systems? They make another Deka model (902) that has a higher reserve capacity.
A physically larger or heavier battery is usually part of it too, because while high CCAs are great in real cold weather - the ability to supply a burst of very high current for a short period of time - the way those higher CCAs are achieved in any given battery group size is by stuffing more (thinner) plates inside the case. A battery that is drawn down hard all the time will peg the generator to the high side in terms of current output and may start slinging solder from the armature.
The tradeoff generally is at the expense of total reserve minutes because the plates are so thin. The highest CCA batteries also tend to be more prone to physical damage due to high vibration or rough service and don't generally last as long as batteries with thick plates. Low compression inlines, flatheads etc probably don't ever need 800 or 900 CCA batteries anyway, at least if you live south of Saskatoon or Fargo anyway.
A better value is the heaviest battery in any given group size that just meets or exceeds the CCAs required. Notice that second battery you linked with more reserve minutes weighs 7 pounds more! That's all lead, thicker plates.
Batteries don't "like" deep discharges, and even alternators struggle sometimes to get them plussed back up again. If you have the room of course it's certainly possible to buy a battery with both very high CCA and Reserve minutes, but these start to get pretty spendy, just like the exotic fancy pants specialty batteries everybody buys now. New Castle Battery used to make damp-dry lead-acid reproduction Power Punch and Sta-Ful and 6 volt Ford batteries, but they went out of business, they were real tar tops, everybody just stuffs AGM in a repro case now.