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So after a couple yrs and lots and lots of work, I am almost finished with my truck and only need just a couple things to
drive it on the road, I did a efi conversion on my truck and right now I am only using the wires that originally go to the starter
solenoid, to power lights, wipers radio and all inside acc I got the temp, oil, gas, guage to work but don't know how to hook up
my amp gauge, it was working before. my question is from the wire bundle that comes thru the firewall top pass side is there any thing
that need to be connected to work properly there are sevral wires that go to the starter solenoid and are coming from connectors that i'm
not using, one of them is the one that powers the fuse box and turns everything i need (that is not efi or fans fuel pump all that is separate)
buts seems a very small wire to feed everything on the original fuse box was wondering if the alt wire also feed the fuse box?
i taped the wires to the alt. using a single wire alt straight to a large fuse then to battery, what should i do with the
regulator connectors on the pass side.I already started the engine for a few seconds at a time, not finished with cooling system yet
and everything seems to be working fine checked all lights and accessories everything seems to be working
some of the things i did was install the crown vic front end, clean and repaint fire wall remove all ac
factory parts and installed a nostalgic ac system, did a LS swap with ls3 top end and the OD 4L80E trans and converter
installed a new later model fuel tank and fuel system, all new brakes parts and lines,
small repairs on floor boards and windshield rail, install dynomat all I could cover in cab, rebuilt rear end used later model rear axles to match crown vic bolt pattern
installed a locker last still need full exhaust
Great looking truck! Let's see whatcha got under the hood!
Is the rest of the chassis wiring still stock? Or is it all changed?
All of the old wires in the engine compartment are gone now, and only what's needed for an LS conversion is running around under the hood?
As meangreen said, you need to either create your own shunt wires, finding out where the old ones were removed, OR better yet just convert over to a volt-meter in the old location of the ammeter.
I actually like ammeters (when they work) but ours were never all that informative I don't think. At least not what a good volt-meter won't help out with at least. With a volt-meter at least you know part of what's going on with your charging system.
It's good info, and much simpler to wire up.
Doesn't sound like you would have much trouble working with wiring, after all you've done, but a volt-meter is still much easier at this point.
Or I should say, "WAYYYY EASIER" at this point.
Geez at the point why not just cut the truck body off and mount it to a car?...you've basically made it not even the same truck anymore. Maybe would have been cheaper to get a new truck and swap bodies ! LOL.
Geez at the point why not just cut the truck body off and mount it to a car?...you've basically made it not even the same truck anymore. Maybe would have been cheaper to get a new truck and swap bodies ! LOL.
dont know what you smoking only thing I change on the chassis was the front suspension. Everything else on the body and chassis is completely stock.
Great looking truck! Let's see whatcha got under the hood!
Is the rest of the chassis wiring still stock? Or is it all changed?
All of the old wires in the engine compartment are gone now, and only what's needed for an LS conversion is running around under the hood?
As meangreen said, you need to either create your own shunt wires, finding out where the old ones were removed, OR better yet just convert over to a volt-meter in the old location of the ammeter.
I actually like ammeters (when they work) but ours were never all that informative I don't think. At least not what a good volt-meter won't help out with at least. With a volt-meter at least you know part of what's going on with your charging system.
It's good info, and much simpler to wire up.
Doesn't sound like you would have much trouble working with wiring, after all you've done, but a volt-meter is still much easier at this point.
Or I should say, "WAYYYY EASIER" at this point.
Paul
thanks Paul I have a ls harness that controls all of the engine efi, trans, fans, pump, etc. All other wiring is factory and is still there. I'm not sure if I should get rid of the wires I'm not using or just tape everything up clean out of the way just in case is always all still there
Well, I happen to like ammeters myself, so always try to keep them functioning when they're already in the vehicle.
And since both engine types still use alternators... It just seems natural to find out if there's a way to keep all the original gauges working if they can.
Speaking of that jc, how did you get the other gauges to function with the GM senders? Did you add Ford senders for the gauges and keep the stock LS stuff for the computer? Or some kind of adaptation for the different ways of reading the signals?
I've thought about using one of the Dakota Digital ammeters with the remotely mounted inductive loop. Safe and consistent, but not sure how to make it work in both directions yet.
