Longer than normal Crank time
#1
01-17-2019, 03:15 PM
Longer than normal Crank time
Gentlemen,
The last few days it seems to me that my truck is taking longer to start. Its a 2006 f250 4x4 with 160,000 on the clock. All the electrical stuff seems to be fine. I'm getting 12 volts before start and it drops to 10.5 when starting and quickly climbs to 14.1. FICM is getting 47.5 - 48. Both batteries are less then 2 yrs old. I have LN alternator and have done the wiring upgrade that Toomanytoys recommends. I did replace the fuel filters a couple of weeks ago but didn't notice a problem back then. What are the signs of a starter going out? I think I still have the original oem starter. Any suggestions as to what I should check or look for? Other than the longer crank the truck runs fine with no problems at all.
Thanks
Gilbert
The last few days it seems to me that my truck is taking longer to start. Its a 2006 f250 4x4 with 160,000 on the clock. All the electrical stuff seems to be fine. I'm getting 12 volts before start and it drops to 10.5 when starting and quickly climbs to 14.1. FICM is getting 47.5 - 48. Both batteries are less then 2 yrs old. I have LN alternator and have done the wiring upgrade that Toomanytoys recommends. I did replace the fuel filters a couple of weeks ago but didn't notice a problem back then. What are the signs of a starter going out? I think I still have the original oem starter. Any suggestions as to what I should check or look for? Other than the longer crank the truck runs fine with no problems at all.
Thanks
Gilbert
#2
01-17-2019, 03:40 PM
Postmaster
#3
01-17-2019, 04:02 PM
#4
01-17-2019, 04:15 PM
I had to replace the starter in my 2006 F350 5.4l last year; only about 64,000 miles on it (mainly a plow truck).
The starter completely died on me. With the new starter in it, it really starts much stronger than the original one. I don’t know if the old one was just slowly wearing down over time such that I couldn’t really tell it was dying.
No harm in trying a new starter; probably going to die at some point anyway even if it turns out not to be your issue.
The starter completely died on me. With the new starter in it, it really starts much stronger than the original one. I don’t know if the old one was just slowly wearing down over time such that I couldn’t really tell it was dying.
No harm in trying a new starter; probably going to die at some point anyway even if it turns out not to be your issue.
#6
01-18-2019, 10:59 AM
When I got home last night after a 45 minute drive, I turned off the truck waited a few minutes and restarted. It took approx. 2 seconds to start. This morning it took about 4.5 seconds.
was using my phone as a timer in left hand while I cranked with the right. My truck is garage kept so should not be affected by cold weather.
#7
01-18-2019, 12:53 PM
This won't help answer your question, it is just a comment for comparison.
Since new, my truck has always taken about 4.5 sec to fire.
It now has 230,000+ mile, has had all injectors replaced, new IPR valve, new EGR valve and cooler, updated dummy plugs and standpipe, blue spring upgrade, new starter and new batteries and it still always takes 4.5 sec to fire.
Always have been envious of those that have their truck fire immediately or within a second or two!
Since new, my truck has always taken about 4.5 sec to fire.
It now has 230,000+ mile, has had all injectors replaced, new IPR valve, new EGR valve and cooler, updated dummy plugs and standpipe, blue spring upgrade, new starter and new batteries and it still always takes 4.5 sec to fire.
Always have been envious of those that have their truck fire immediately or within a second or two!
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#8
01-18-2019, 02:32 PM
This won't help answer your question, it is just a comment for comparison.
Since new, my truck has always taken about 4.5 sec to fire.
It now has 230,000+ mile, has had all injectors replaced, new IPR valve, new EGR valve and cooler, updated dummy plugs and standpipe, blue spring upgrade, new starter and new batteries and it still always takes 4.5 sec to fire.
Always have been envious of those that have their truck fire immediately or within a second or two!
Since new, my truck has always taken about 4.5 sec to fire.
It now has 230,000+ mile, has had all injectors replaced, new IPR valve, new EGR valve and cooler, updated dummy plugs and standpipe, blue spring upgrade, new starter and new batteries and it still always takes 4.5 sec to fire.
Always have been envious of those that have their truck fire immediately or within a second or two!
I guess at at this point I will have to wait for some failure to happen before can pin point the problem.
#9
01-18-2019, 03:37 PM
Postmaster
I am a little confused as to if you are saying it's cranking slower? or just taking a bit longer to fire off.....
There are multiple scenarios that come into play.
If you have confirmed everything on the voltage side and it's spinning slower than normal, then yes it may be the starter.(do the 6.4 starter upgrade in that case)
What are your cranking RPM's?
Need at least 150
Now, if it's cranking just fine, but taking longer to actually catch hold.......could be a slight leak on the HPO side.
A long cold start often points to an oil rail leaking down overnight. Long hot start often means a leak somewhere as well, among other things.
For starters, the next time it's been sitting overnight but before you start it, pull the ICP sensor. There should be oil right there at the hole. If you can't see it right there it's leaking down.
This trick only works for the passenger side of course. If the drivers side is leaking down you would have to pull the valve cover and then the test port on the oil rail to confirm.
This would be a good place to start since you seem to have a harder cold start, which means it's taking the HPOP a little longer to fill whatever void is left there from sitting overnight.
The next step might be an air test.
And as mentioned, you need enough injector pressure before the fire is even lit......500 lbs ICP is the magic number before it will start.
There are multiple scenarios that come into play.
If you have confirmed everything on the voltage side and it's spinning slower than normal, then yes it may be the starter.(do the 6.4 starter upgrade in that case)
What are your cranking RPM's?
Need at least 150
Now, if it's cranking just fine, but taking longer to actually catch hold.......could be a slight leak on the HPO side.
A long cold start often points to an oil rail leaking down overnight. Long hot start often means a leak somewhere as well, among other things.
For starters, the next time it's been sitting overnight but before you start it, pull the ICP sensor. There should be oil right there at the hole. If you can't see it right there it's leaking down.
This trick only works for the passenger side of course. If the drivers side is leaking down you would have to pull the valve cover and then the test port on the oil rail to confirm.
This would be a good place to start since you seem to have a harder cold start, which means it's taking the HPOP a little longer to fill whatever void is left there from sitting overnight.
The next step might be an air test.
And as mentioned, you need enough injector pressure before the fire is even lit......500 lbs ICP is the magic number before it will start.
#11
01-18-2019, 03:50 PM
#12
01-18-2019, 04:03 PM
I am a little confused as to if you are saying it's cranking slower? or just taking a bit longer to fire off.....
There are multiple scenarios that come into play.
If you have confirmed everything on the voltage side and it's spinning slower than normal, then yes it may be the starter.(do the 6.4 starter upgrade in that case)
What are your cranking RPM's?
Need at least 150
Now, if it's cranking just fine, but taking longer to actually catch hold.......could be a slight leak on the HPO side.
A long cold start often points to an oil rail leaking down overnight. Long hot start often means a leak somewhere as well, among other things.
For starters, the next time it's been sitting overnight but before you start it, pull the ICP sensor. There should be oil right there at the hole. If you can't see it right there it's leaking down.
This trick only works for the passenger side of course. If the drivers side is leaking down you would have to pull the valve cover and then the test port on the oil rail to confirm.
This would be a good place to start since you seem to have a harder cold start, which means it's taking the HPOP a little longer to fill whatever void is left there from sitting overnight.
The next step might be an air test.
And as mentioned, you need enough injector pressure before the fire is even lit......500 lbs ICP is the magic number before it will start.
There are multiple scenarios that come into play.
If you have confirmed everything on the voltage side and it's spinning slower than normal, then yes it may be the starter.(do the 6.4 starter upgrade in that case)
What are your cranking RPM's?
Need at least 150
Now, if it's cranking just fine, but taking longer to actually catch hold.......could be a slight leak on the HPO side.
A long cold start often points to an oil rail leaking down overnight. Long hot start often means a leak somewhere as well, among other things.
For starters, the next time it's been sitting overnight but before you start it, pull the ICP sensor. There should be oil right there at the hole. If you can't see it right there it's leaking down.
This trick only works for the passenger side of course. If the drivers side is leaking down you would have to pull the valve cover and then the test port on the oil rail to confirm.
This would be a good place to start since you seem to have a harder cold start, which means it's taking the HPOP a little longer to fill whatever void is left there from sitting overnight.
The next step might be an air test.
And as mentioned, you need enough injector pressure before the fire is even lit......500 lbs ICP is the magic number before it will start.
Thanks
#13
01-18-2019, 06:35 PM
Logistics Pro
My money is on the dummy plugs leaking and letting the oil rails drain out overnight. They're cheap and easy to replace. Stand pipes would be next, but I only replaced DPs on mine and it solved this problem completely. Now, I fire up in half a second first thing in the morning and after it warms up, takes 1-2 seconds.
#14
01-18-2019, 07:28 PM
Just did dummy plugs and standpipes on my late 04 build, they looked good both of them none looked rolled over or worn so when I finally find an oil rail bolt for the 1 I stripped on the passenger side because I grabbed a 25 torx instead of a 30 . Seems Ford doesn't have 1 in the Memphis warehouse or in the system what a joke.
#15
01-19-2019, 08:21 AM
Postmaster
Just did dummy plugs and standpipes on my late 04 build, they looked good both of them none looked rolled over or worn so when I finally find an oil rail bolt for the 1 I stripped on the passenger side because I grabbed a 25 torx instead of a 30 . Seems Ford doesn't have 1 in the Memphis warehouse or in the system what a joke.
They have one of about every fastener under the sun