Looking for sympathy
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Charlotte
Looking for sympathy
Allright....I replaced my old carb with a new one (remanufactured). I have an F100 with a 360, put on a reman Motorcraft 2100 2bbl (the original stock carb). Looks great...bolted in nicely, but now the truck won't idle. I am sure I need to adjust the flow/mixture, but I am the only "mechanic" in my shop and cant't get the truck to stay idling to adjust it. I guess possibly I have a vaccuum leak or didn't get the gaskets seated properly. There was a lot of old nasty gasket on the intake manifold and the riser, so I had to scrape quite a bit. I was careful, though not to damage the metal. Is there an easy way to check for a vaccuum leak around the carb base?
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Freshman User
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From: Charlotte
Sounds good...but....
I guess I need to enlist the help of a friend to dance on the accelerator to keep it idling......it doesn't curremtly idle at all, and bogs down with a big sucking sound when choke it..is it possibly running rich?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tumwater, Wa
Some of those reman carbs are just junk. I've gone through 3 before I found one that ran halfway decent. Try to eliminate any vacuum leaks first, then blame the carb. If you took the spacer off, make sure the spacer to intake gasket has the "tab" that sticks out to the rear to seal the pcv passage. When I put a reman on the 352, I just used a regular carb base gasket under the spacer and had a huge leak.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Ditto on the junk Reman carbs. Friend bought one for one of the big Mustang resto places. I had to use it with parts from the old one to make ONE that worked.
I would crank the idle up to keep it running. But first, I would crank the mixtures screws OUT 2-3 turns. That should be adequate to make any motor run. Then start the truck, turn idle down to proper spot, then adjust screws for highest idle/or vacuum reading.
Larry
I would crank the idle up to keep it running. But first, I would crank the mixtures screws OUT 2-3 turns. That should be adequate to make any motor run. Then start the truck, turn idle down to proper spot, then adjust screws for highest idle/or vacuum reading.
Larry
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: iowa
after rebuilding my carb i couldnt get my truck to idle, after going nuts on it trying to figure out why i relized my pcv valve was not where it was supposed to be, i forgot to put it back in the line off the brather after i put the carb back on. just my 2 cents
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 193
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From: BC, Canada
You might want to look at the float level. Many remanufactured OEM carbs are for a variety of different apps all with slightly different float levels, so they usually don't come adjusted for your specific needs.
It's rather odd that the vehicle won't idle, even a poorly adjust carb with vacuum leaks with generally idle enough you to make the required adjustments. Why not run the engine on the fast idle? That at least should give you an opportunity to do some research.
It's rather odd that the vehicle won't idle, even a poorly adjust carb with vacuum leaks with generally idle enough you to make the required adjustments. Why not run the engine on the fast idle? That at least should give you an opportunity to do some research.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: peoria, az
CC.. Just wondering why carb was replaced. In the future an easy way to scrape those"soft" gaskets is to use a razor, works great with little effort so you can go slow. You didn't happen to bump the timing did you?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Black Hills of SD
pat67shorty, I have to almost agree with you but I think ALL reman carbs are junk and getting the occasional good one is an exception.
Don't open the carb up or you may void the waffanty. It sounds like you have a big vacuum leak I use Berryman's chemtool to look for leaks but some guys frown on using a flammable. In 25 years I have only had one little poof and that was on an old car with points. I also use a section of vacuum line and stick one end up to my ear and take the other end around the carb base or other suspected area. You can pinpoint it more quickly and accurately that spraying anything around. I have taken the end off my stethescope and put a longer hose on it and that is what I use. It is supersensative.
Also you may have to crank the idle speed screw in a bunch to keep it running while you trouble shoot
Don't open the carb up or you may void the waffanty. It sounds like you have a big vacuum leak I use Berryman's chemtool to look for leaks but some guys frown on using a flammable. In 25 years I have only had one little poof and that was on an old car with points. I also use a section of vacuum line and stick one end up to my ear and take the other end around the carb base or other suspected area. You can pinpoint it more quickly and accurately that spraying anything around. I have taken the end off my stethescope and put a longer hose on it and that is what I use. It is supersensative.
Also you may have to crank the idle speed screw in a bunch to keep it running while you trouble shoot
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Balfour
There are a couple different gaskets for the 2v setup as they are not all the same. Make sure all your holes/outlets are sealed.
If your gaskets match, and everything is sealed up good, the carb is junk if keeps on sucking in unwanted air.
If your gaskets match, and everything is sealed up good, the carb is junk if keeps on sucking in unwanted air.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston TX
>pat67shorty, I have to almost agree with you but I think ALL >reman carbs are junk and getting the occasional good one is an >exception.
I haven't had any real problems getting a new one to work. The problem I see with many of the rebuilt's, is they just don't seem to last very long. IE: My friend with a 240 has been through 3 carbs at least. All ran perfect from the start, but they flake out. One had the throttle plate bores start leaking. That was on a trip. It went from running great to running real bad instantly. I guess a piece of metal gave way or something. The rebuilt on my truck had the pump diaphram flake out after 2-3 years. I replaced it, and the needle/seat about a month ago. I did notice one thing. The rebuilder on mine left out the gasket for the pump diaphram. I still worked I suppose, but it's supposed to have a gasket, as I found out when I bought the rebuild kit. Myself, and I may be an exception, the rebuilds work ok at first. Most all ran like a new truck right out of the box. It's just keeping them that way...:/ MK
I haven't had any real problems getting a new one to work. The problem I see with many of the rebuilt's, is they just don't seem to last very long. IE: My friend with a 240 has been through 3 carbs at least. All ran perfect from the start, but they flake out. One had the throttle plate bores start leaking. That was on a trip. It went from running great to running real bad instantly. I guess a piece of metal gave way or something. The rebuilt on my truck had the pump diaphram flake out after 2-3 years. I replaced it, and the needle/seat about a month ago. I did notice one thing. The rebuilder on mine left out the gasket for the pump diaphram. I still worked I suppose, but it's supposed to have a gasket, as I found out when I bought the rebuild kit. Myself, and I may be an exception, the rebuilds work ok at first. Most all ran like a new truck right out of the box. It's just keeping them that way...:/ MK
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Pittsburgh
I've always had the best luck just rebuilding my own (also the fact that a kit costs about $20 and a reman costs aroud $200). You buy the kit from a good, reputable supplier and the rebuild specs from a ford service manual. so long as the throttle bores aren't worn out it'll take about 45 minutes to an hour, 2-3 hours if the carb needs bushed (if you have the tools and supplies to do it). I'm on 7 years (AC VW), 5 years (GM 292), a year and a half (Ford 300), and 6 months (another AC VW) on the carbs i've rebuilt for my vehicles.
Justin
Justin
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Black Hills of SD
hoxiii, I am with you on this one. I did have to buy a replacement for my 72 several years ago because it had shaken apart so many times I couldn't keep the screws in it any more. I tried to buy a new carb and had the parts store guy talk me into a reman by Holley. It was a total piece of junk and I still had to redo all the choke linkage just to get to a basic functioning level. Then I had to fiddle with the thing on a regular basis for quite a while to get it dialed in. Actually I fought a weak accelerator pump for a couple years until I devised a modification to overcome the problem. Now I would rather get an old cruddy onr from a junker and rebuild it. If you are looking for a good rebuildable core make sure it still has the factory metal tag on it. That way you know that no rebuilder has had his fingers in there.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 779
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From: Tumwater, Wa
Originally posted by hoxiii
I've always had the best luck just rebuilding my own (also the fact that a kit costs about $20 and a reman costs aroud $200). You buy the kit from a good, reputable supplier and the rebuild specs from a ford service manual. so long as the throttle bores aren't worn out it'll take about 45 minutes to an hour, 2-3 hours if the carb needs bushed (if you have the tools and supplies to do it). I'm on 7 years (AC VW), 5 years (GM 292), a year and a half (Ford 300), and 6 months (another AC VW) on the carbs i've rebuilt for my vehicles.
Justin
I've always had the best luck just rebuilding my own (also the fact that a kit costs about $20 and a reman costs aroud $200). You buy the kit from a good, reputable supplier and the rebuild specs from a ford service manual. so long as the throttle bores aren't worn out it'll take about 45 minutes to an hour, 2-3 hours if the carb needs bushed (if you have the tools and supplies to do it). I'm on 7 years (AC VW), 5 years (GM 292), a year and a half (Ford 300), and 6 months (another AC VW) on the carbs i've rebuilt for my vehicles.
Justin
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Freshman User
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From: Charlotte
I got the thing to idle by cranking the idle screw in til I could adjust it....checked for vacuum leaks (none I can detect)....and turned the mixture screws until it sounded fairly smooth. Now it runs and idles well, but when I decelerate it pops a little bit out the tail pipe. There are probably some exhaust manifold leaks...could that cause those 'pops'? I adjusted the mixture screws by ear, so might I be too lean/rich and which way leans out the mixture on the mixture screws? I have and idle adjustment screw near the throttle linkage and 2 screws on the front body of the carb I am calling mixture screws. Also, what does it mean to "run the engine on the fast idle"?