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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 02:36 PM
  #16  
beef tits's Avatar
beef tits
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
Check the 01 block to see what connecting rods it has, if it has the Powdered metal rods, it would be a good time to swap a set of forged rods in.
You make it sound so easy!

To "swap" a set of rods properly takes balancing, blueprinting, possibly crank work/bearings. Unlike what our crazy old Uncles led us to believe growing up, motors aren't like lego sets. Yes you can just throw a motor together in your garage over a weekend... but just because it fits together doesn't mean it's right or a good idea. This is how people end up with "rebuilt" engines that last 30k miles then **** oil everywhere and start knocking.

I'd recommend getting a different engine if PMR rods are a concern, or have a competent professional rebuild what you have.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 03:29 PM
  #17  
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From: DFW
Stock power on PMR is not an issue, but good to know what is in the motor. PMR can put out lots of power, just need to be aware so the tuning can
be set with them in mind...

50YO? That is when I started with the power, heck you looking for a rocking chair and yelling at kids to get off your lawn yet... lol Wont be long before
you are itching and scratching for your next power hit.. gotta get me some more of that..... Then ya gotta fix what ya broke.. lol
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 03:45 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by beef ****
You make it sound so easy!

To "swap" a set of rods properly takes balancing, blueprinting, possibly crank work/bearings. Unlike what our crazy old Uncles led us to believe growing up, motors aren't like lego sets. Yes you can just throw a motor together in your garage over a weekend... but just because it fits together doesn't mean it's right or a good idea. This is how people end up with "rebuilt" engines that last 30k miles then **** oil everywhere and start knocking.

I'd recommend getting a different engine if PMR rods are a concern, or have a competent professional rebuild what you have.
It's not that big of a deal, any competent machine shop can balance the rotating assembly.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 04:10 PM
  #19  
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cleatus12r
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
It's not that big of a deal, any competent machine shop can balance the rotating assembly.
But to say "swap" implies that it's not super labor intensive or expensive. Connecting rod "swaps" involve a 100% complete teardown to accomplish. "Just swap the connecting rods." Sounds fast, good, and cheap! Not everyone knows how an engine works.

Balancing isn't even an issue as the crankshafts are identical between forged rod engines and powdered metal rod engines....unless one desires to do better than the factory did on an engine that might see 3300 RPM a few times in 400K miles.

​​​​​​​

 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 04:21 PM
  #20  
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Why cant you pull heads and swap rods and piston's from the top? Without pulling the whole engine out?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 04:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by hotrodfeguy
Why cant you pull heads and swap rods and piston's from the top? Without pulling the whole engine out?
Ummmm....how do you get the rod caps off?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 04:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by hotrodfeguy
Why cant you pull heads and swap rods and piston's from the top? Without pulling the whole engine out?
That sounds like it would take 3x longer than pulling the motor and doing it on a stand. Not only would you have to pull the top/front of the engine apart with minimal clearance, but you'd have to get the oil pan off as well and whatever else is in the way (front axle, etc).

It would probably take about as much time to pull the motor as it would to take the valve covers off (in the truck)
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 04:41 PM
  #23  
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hydro man 17
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"Why cant you pull heads and swap rods and piston's from the top? Without pulling the whole engine out"

Because it is nearly impossible to do properly and have no oil leaks as well. For someone that has the experience and proper tools it is probably quicker to pull the engine.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 06:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r
But to say "swap" implies that it's not super labor intensive or expensive.
Really? I never thought that's what swap ment. So what would you call it then? He already has the engine out of the truck which is half of the battle, but in the OPs case I think he will be fine with PM rods.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 12:59 PM
  #25  
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I understand it is out now. But I do know you can pull out the oil pan. We did it on my brother in laws truck when his flywheel cracked. While there we pulled rods and main bearings replaced with new ones. The mains were a bit more of a pain but got it done.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by hotrodfeguy
I understand it is out now. But I do know you can pull out the oil pan. We did it on my brother in laws truck when his flywheel cracked. While there we pulled rods and main bearings replaced with new ones. The mains were a bit more of a pain but got it done.

Was it knocking? Replacing bearings without taking everything in to get mic'd and resized if needed can be worse than leaving the old ones in. Hope it worked out...
 
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 01:52 PM
  #27  
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Wow you guys have really dragged this guy's thread off into the weeds. Can we stop talking about rods already?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 01:55 PM
  #28  
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To be fair, his question was answered in the first couple posts.

I'm carrying it on to help mitigate the future newbs from pulling this thread up and thinking it's a good idea tor that it's easy to swap rods out in the truck.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 07:34 PM
  #29  
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From: Chickaloon, Alaska
I just did a engine swap about 3 months and used a 2002 van engine in my 2000 F350. Being a van engine a lot of the accessories were different so had to swap some stuff but if you have a truck engine it should be pretty easy. My engine had bad compression to
 
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