Pics / ideas parking Rv on and 3% gravel drive level and safely
#1
Pics / ideas parking Rv on and 3% gravel drive level and safely
I have a 8k-10k# toy hauler to park in my new screened millings drive. Its on about a 3% grade measured using a 10' 2x6 and the "angle pro" app on my iPhone. Id like to have it secure and level worry free and safe so I can use the fridge / slide , work on it / etc. I have a thread on the drive and my newb adventures getting the RV stuck / etc. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...our-tt-rv.html
I''m looking for Pics / suggestions for home made chocks or store bought, ( Ive looked through Amazon/ etc and have some ideas.....lots of smaller cheap stuff there ) and pics of your rigs parked on a sloped drive and how youve creatively secured them. It was suggested to install an anchor and chain the tongue as a safety, any detailed instructions on that ( post hole depth / bent rebar / bully ring/ etc ) from someone in the know would be appreciated .
thanks for any help
#2
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
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At the storage lot (I unfortunately do not have enough land or live in a place where RV storage is allowed at the house ) my stall is on a slight hill, front to back and then from side to side. I used two 2"x12" boards screwed together to solve the side to side problem on the downhill side. The front to back orientation I have isn't as bad as yours, but I don't consider yours "bad". I've camped on worse.
I use a set of rubber chocks from Harbor Freight. They're cheap and quite heavy. I use them at the lot but not out camping (too heavy). The same or similar set of chocks are available at eTrailer.com for twice the price as Harbor Freight. I would try a set of chocks first to see if they'll hold the trailer in place. Don't try to solve a problem that may not actually exist.
You might also want to add a set of between the tire chocks like this.
I use a set of rubber chocks from Harbor Freight. They're cheap and quite heavy. I use them at the lot but not out camping (too heavy). The same or similar set of chocks are available at eTrailer.com for twice the price as Harbor Freight. I would try a set of chocks first to see if they'll hold the trailer in place. Don't try to solve a problem that may not actually exist.
You might also want to add a set of between the tire chocks like this.
#3
I would use front and rear chocks on all tires, for the corner jacks screw some 2x6 together with some legs that won't let it rock and for the tongue I would build something our of 2x8 (minimum). It'll be heavy but it will work.
We parked my in-laws in the driveway here for 5 days on our 5% grade with corner jacks supported and the tongue was on stacked wood (not screwed together) and they slept in it every night and didn't have any issues. Long term and opening the slide I would definitely support the tongue better than we did.
We parked my in-laws in the driveway here for 5 days on our 5% grade with corner jacks supported and the tongue was on stacked wood (not screwed together) and they slept in it every night and didn't have any issues. Long term and opening the slide I would definitely support the tongue better than we did.
#5
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
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I too use the Andersen Levelers, but not at the storage lot. I don't spend much time in the trailer, other than if I'm working on it. The double 2"x12" boards are enough to get it close enough to level for me. The Levelers work great as long as the ground isn't soft. I wish they made them a bit wider, maybe they wouldn't sink into the ground as much.
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