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If they did, Dorman oil coolers are known to not cool as well. The early ones also had gasket failures that caused problems with the high pressure oil system.
Before condemning an oil cooler, make sure the temperature sensors are reading accurately. With a completely cold engine, the ECT and EOT should read about the same. Even this isn't a complete check, but it is usually enough. To do a more thorough check, you can remove, clean, and swap the two sensors - they are the same part. If the oil cooler is an issue, the temperature profile will be the same as before switching sensors.
Before condemning an oil cooler, make sure the temperature sensors are reading accurately. With a completely cold engine, the ECT and EOT should read about the same. Even this isn;t a complete check, but it is usually enough. To do a more thorough check, you can remove, clean, and swap the two sensors - they are the same part. If the oil cooler is an issue, the temperature profile will be the same as before switching sensors.
Copy that! I will do some more checking and report back when I get a chance to! Thanks everyone!
Oh - also verify that your coolant level is fine in the degas bottle and look the coolant over pretty good (ie no contamination or sludge).
Yes I've done that. When I bought it, it looked like it was doing the natural 6.0 overflow thing. While replacing the #4 injector I emptied the bottle and cleaned it. Refilled it to a lower level and havnt had a issue since
I'd change that thermostat out and since you need to drain the coolant, you can inspect the coolant in the container you catch it in. Easier to see than what's in the degas tank. A universal joint and extension will be your friend for the T-stat housing bolts. A zip tie or something to hold the sensor cable going to the fan shroud out of your way too. I just did a coolant flush and swapped to CAT EC-1, so this is all fresh for me. You can loosen the hose clamp on the upper radiator hose at the radiator. Leave the other end of the hose clamped to the T-stat housing. Then once you take the bolts out, pull the hose and t-stat housing out as a unit. It's easier than fighting the hose clamp with the CAC tube in your way.
Today if you are going to endeavor to do any work involving coolant hoses small or large, you need that tool. The percentage of spring clamps out there in the open is very low on modern vehicles.
Sorry guys I just barley got to drive my truck today, first thing I checked was cold temps. Engine was only running for 2-3 min. 30 degrees and raining outside, the engine oil was at 46 and coolant was at 64 degrees. I will update after I've driven it a while
So I just did about a 40 mile drive give or take a few. Coolant temps never got higher than 170 and when driving they dropped to 140-150... this is all city driving by the way. Oil temps got as high as 206 but then would go down to 194-197. While driving at about 50 mph my coolant temps would go down to 140-150 by oil temps would stay around 200, even 206
Did you notice the ECT and EOT values on OBDII scanner before starting engine as Bismic suggested?
Originally Posted by bismic
Before condemning an oil cooler, make sure the temperature sensors are reading accurately. With a completely cold engine, the ECT and EOT should read about the same. Even this isn't a complete check, but it is usually enough. To do a more thorough check, you can remove, clean, and swap the two sensors - they are the same part. If the oil cooler is an issue, the temperature profile will be the same as before switching sensors.