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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 10:10 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by L-ight
Do you happen to have the diagram of where these parts are? I recall seeing it on here with every labeled on an actual picture of the engine bay.
These are the ones I have saved...









There's some overlap in there but it gives you some different views and relative positions to help triangulate locations, especially if you aren't intimate with them yet.

I'm sure you can Google more but this pretty much covers the major sensors on top.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 10:44 AM
  #17  
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The problem is you don't have enough dirt on that engine to soak up the oil.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 12:53 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by dmd
The problem is you don't have enough dirt on that engine to soak up the oil.
Ain't that the truth.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 01:12 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Don't be so sure that the leaks are where you are seeing the oil down there...engine top leaks are common and the oil drains down the back of the engine through a drain hole, from there it can end up anywhere. So...start up top and work your way down. And to answer one of your questions, I would use a clean, clean, clean bucket and reuse that oil.
Somebody once mentioned on this forum that you could place a shop-vac hose over the oil fill tube, turn on the vacuum, take out the drain plug and no oil will come out. I too had that copper oil drain plug leak issue until I went to the cheap blue gasket, but I had just changed the oil and didn't want to drain and throw away the oil. Shop-vac solution worked perfectly! And no, it just pulls a slight vacuum on the oil pan, not nearly enough to pull the oil up through the engine and out the fill tube.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 01:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Don't be so sure that the leaks are where you are seeing the oil down there...engine top leaks are common and the oil drains down the back of the engine through a drain hole, from there it can end up anywhere. So...start up top and work your way down. And to answer one of your questions, I would use a clean, clean, clean bucket and reuse that oil.
Also when my HPOP non-serviceable plug was leaking, I say oil "dripping" from the pan drain plug as well as some other places that weren't leaking.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 01:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by brian42
These are the ones I have saved...









There's some overlap in there but it gives you some different views and relative positions to help triangulate locations, especially if you aren't intimate with them yet.

I'm sure you can Google more but this pretty much covers the major sensors on top.
This really helps. Thanks. I am hoping the culprit is a easy replacement like the IPR sensor. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I will probably tackle that later this evening. I just get a crap load of degreaser, spray in the valley, rinse out with hose then wait for leak?

Originally Posted by dmd
The problem is you don't have enough dirt on that engine to soak up the oil.
Haha. This truck has been pavement driven 100% its life. Houston truck. So no salt on roads. I do keep my truck clean. One thing is I need to get the roof repainted. Starting to rust in the valleys.
Originally Posted by z31freakify
Ain't that the truth.
lol

Originally Posted by GEugeneS
Somebody once mentioned on this forum that you could place a shop-vac hose over the oil fill tube, turn on the vacuum, take out the drain plug and no oil will come out. I too had that copper oil drain plug leak issue until I went to the cheap blue gasket, but I had just changed the oil and didn't want to drain and throw away the oil. Shop-vac solution worked perfectly! And no, it just pulls a slight vacuum on the oil pan, not nearly enough to pull the oil up through the engine and out the fill tube.
Hmm...My dad has a shop vac. I may try this. Does the hose have to fit inside the oil filler or around it?
Originally Posted by GEugeneS
Also when my HPOP non-serviceable plug was leaking, I say oil "dripping" from the pan drain plug as well as some other places that weren't leaking.
So when that starts leaking one has to replace the whole HPOP?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 01:55 PM
  #22  
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[QUOTE=
Hmm...My dad has a shop vac. I may try this. Does the hose have to fit inside the oil filler or around it?
[/QUOTE]

Mine fit loose on the outside of the filler tube. That way air is being sucked in around the filler and the shop vac won't over heat or try to pull a complete vacuum on the engine. It was amazing. Pulling out the drain plug I just heard a little gurgling sound but not a drop of oil came out.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 01:57 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by GEugeneS
Mine fit loose on the outside of the filler tube. That way air is being sucked in around the filler and the shop vac won't over heat or try to pull a complete vacuum on the engine. It was amazing. Pulling out the drain plug I just heard a little gurgling sound but not a drop of oil came out.
The gurgling sound was air bubbles from air being sucked through the drain and going up through the oil in the pan.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 02:17 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GEugeneS
The gurgling sound was air bubbles from air being sucked through the drain and going up through the oil in the pan.
Interesting to know. Crazy how much suction that vac can have.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 02:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by L-ight
So when that starts leaking one has to replace the whole HPOP?
Nope.

You can re-seal the offending orifice yourself. Between riffraffdiesel.com and dieselorings.com (both great guys) you can get what you need to perform the repair yourself.

I do recommend getting new Parker sleeves for the fuel bowl connections. When you remove those (you need to remove the fuel bowl to remove the HPOP) they will be chewed up and not re-usable.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 02:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by brian42
Nope.

You can re-seal the offending orifice yourself. Between riffraffdiesel.com and dieselorings.com (both great guys) you can get what you need to perform the repair yourself.

I do recommend getting new Parker sleeves for the fuel bowl connections. When you remove those (you need to remove the fuel bowl to remove the HPOP) they will be chewed up and not re-usable.
Good to know.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 05:30 PM
  #27  
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So I checked as much as I could and the valley looks pretty damn dry. I also saw oil spread all over the passenger side of the oil pan, but this could probably be blow by too (which I'm hoping). Here are the pictures
​​​​​​
















 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 07:22 PM
  #28  
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Blow by should go through the CCV and into the intake system. Your top end is dry, I'd look at your dip stick tube where it goes into the pan, that's another culprit.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 08:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Blow by should go through the CCV and into the intake system. Your top end is dry, I'd look at your dip stick tube where it goes into the pan, that's another culprit.
The dipstick is dry as you can see in the pictures. What is that tube covered in gunk /oil in the first pictures? That was towards the back of the motor kinda near the turbo..
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 08:42 PM
  #30  
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That looks like the passenger's side fuel line and it does look a little wet, not real bad but if it's leaking it will only get worse.
 
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