Oil leaks
#16
There's some overlap in there but it gives you some different views and relative positions to help triangulate locations, especially if you aren't intimate with them yet.
I'm sure you can Google more but this pretty much covers the major sensors on top.
#19
Don't be so sure that the leaks are where you are seeing the oil down there...engine top leaks are common and the oil drains down the back of the engine through a drain hole, from there it can end up anywhere. So...start up top and work your way down. And to answer one of your questions, I would use a clean, clean, clean bucket and reuse that oil.
#20
Don't be so sure that the leaks are where you are seeing the oil down there...engine top leaks are common and the oil drains down the back of the engine through a drain hole, from there it can end up anywhere. So...start up top and work your way down. And to answer one of your questions, I would use a clean, clean, clean bucket and reuse that oil.
#21
These are the ones I have saved...
There's some overlap in there but it gives you some different views and relative positions to help triangulate locations, especially if you aren't intimate with them yet.
I'm sure you can Google more but this pretty much covers the major sensors on top.
There's some overlap in there but it gives you some different views and relative positions to help triangulate locations, especially if you aren't intimate with them yet.
I'm sure you can Google more but this pretty much covers the major sensors on top.
lol
Somebody once mentioned on this forum that you could place a shop-vac hose over the oil fill tube, turn on the vacuum, take out the drain plug and no oil will come out. I too had that copper oil drain plug leak issue until I went to the cheap blue gasket, but I had just changed the oil and didn't want to drain and throw away the oil. Shop-vac solution worked perfectly! And no, it just pulls a slight vacuum on the oil pan, not nearly enough to pull the oil up through the engine and out the fill tube.
#22
[QUOTE=
Hmm...My dad has a shop vac. I may try this. Does the hose have to fit inside the oil filler or around it?
[/QUOTE]
Mine fit loose on the outside of the filler tube. That way air is being sucked in around the filler and the shop vac won't over heat or try to pull a complete vacuum on the engine. It was amazing. Pulling out the drain plug I just heard a little gurgling sound but not a drop of oil came out.
Hmm...My dad has a shop vac. I may try this. Does the hose have to fit inside the oil filler or around it?
[/QUOTE]
Mine fit loose on the outside of the filler tube. That way air is being sucked in around the filler and the shop vac won't over heat or try to pull a complete vacuum on the engine. It was amazing. Pulling out the drain plug I just heard a little gurgling sound but not a drop of oil came out.
#23
Mine fit loose on the outside of the filler tube. That way air is being sucked in around the filler and the shop vac won't over heat or try to pull a complete vacuum on the engine. It was amazing. Pulling out the drain plug I just heard a little gurgling sound but not a drop of oil came out.
#24
#25
Nope.
You can re-seal the offending orifice yourself. Between riffraffdiesel.com and dieselorings.com (both great guys) you can get what you need to perform the repair yourself.
I do recommend getting new Parker sleeves for the fuel bowl connections. When you remove those (you need to remove the fuel bowl to remove the HPOP) they will be chewed up and not re-usable.
You can re-seal the offending orifice yourself. Between riffraffdiesel.com and dieselorings.com (both great guys) you can get what you need to perform the repair yourself.
I do recommend getting new Parker sleeves for the fuel bowl connections. When you remove those (you need to remove the fuel bowl to remove the HPOP) they will be chewed up and not re-usable.
#26
Nope.
You can re-seal the offending orifice yourself. Between riffraffdiesel.com and dieselorings.com (both great guys) you can get what you need to perform the repair yourself.
I do recommend getting new Parker sleeves for the fuel bowl connections. When you remove those (you need to remove the fuel bowl to remove the HPOP) they will be chewed up and not re-usable.
You can re-seal the offending orifice yourself. Between riffraffdiesel.com and dieselorings.com (both great guys) you can get what you need to perform the repair yourself.
I do recommend getting new Parker sleeves for the fuel bowl connections. When you remove those (you need to remove the fuel bowl to remove the HPOP) they will be chewed up and not re-usable.
#27
#29
The dipstick is dry as you can see in the pictures. What is that tube covered in gunk /oil in the first pictures? That was towards the back of the motor kinda near the turbo..