Hey guys,
I recently bought an 08 F-350 on it that had 85k on it. Currently I have 92k on it and I've done the dpf delete, egr delete, and use delo 15w-40 that is changed every 5k miles along with the fuel filters. My question to you guys is how do I keep this beast alive for as long as possible? Are there any better oils out there? Better tuner's? Better oil and fuel additives? I've got it tuned with an H&S, however, I keep it on the stock tune since I have no reason to go fast all the time in a heavy *** truck. Like I said, oil is changed every 5k miles along with factory fuel filters. I'll put all my maintenance records below. I always let it warm up on the cold days with high idle until the oil is at least 120*. I recently added the archoil oil and fuel additives because why not. I am thinking about adding the amsoil oil bypass filter when I can scrape up the money. Is there anything else that I can do to keep from having any major repairs to the truck? Love this truck to death which is why I am using all of my available resources to make sure I do everything I can to take care of it.

Maintenance Records:
Oil: 85k, 90k
Oil filter: 85k, 90k
Fuel filters: 85k, 90k
Fuel water separator: 85k, 87k, 90k, 92k
DPF delete: 85k
EGR delete: 88k
Ranch hand: 85k
Coolant Flush: 88k
Thermocure: 88k
Idler pulleys: 88k
Serpentine belt: 88k
Thermostats: 88k
Leveling Kit: 90k
Alignment: 90k
Winch: 92K
Archoil 9100: 91K
Archoil 6200: every other fill up

 

Hopefully you will get lucky.. Most don't make it past 150k.. That being said yours may be the exception...The valve train and many other mechanical issues plague these engines.
Good luck..archoil is good stuff..

 

One of the main problems I've been told that causes these failures is the lack of lubrication to moving parts, i.e. rocker arms. That's why I am determined to get the best quality oil, filters, and additives to make sure everything is always getting the proper lubrication in order to squeeze get the most life out of this engine as possible.

 

injector failure seems to be the most catastrophic item....if the injector is stuck open...it will torch a hole in a piston... Piston disintegrates...poor fuel quality contributes to this so a fuel lube additive on every fillup is the way to go.

oil related problems are not catastrophic...rocker failure..replace rocker...lifter failure ....replace lifter and/or cams in worst case...startup oil flow is critical so running the lowest viscosity 5w40 will give you faster startup oil flow than 15W40. you can also use an oil preluber which is a tank that pressurizes your oil system at key on..before the start

coolant problems still exist even if you egr delete...coolant pump will cavitate and create a hole which will pimp coolant into crank case...coolant settles to the bottom so you will get a lot of coolant in the start up oil flow..wearing out engine internals....as coolant level increases in oil system...pistons will hydro lock...rods shoot thru blocks, etc. Switching to a waterless coolant like Evans eliminates the water and reduces the changes of cavitation.

high temps on tuned engines are a problem...pistons melt...valve seats crack...valve guide holes elongate, etc....common sense on power tunes and using high power tunes while towing up hill trying tom pass corvettes...things like methonal / water injection can provide more power and REDUCE exhaust temps. running pump BIO fuel such as B5 will also reduce exhaust temps.

fuel pump problems....claimed to be due to contamintated fuel..but often its due to fuel starvation either due to dirty filters or jelling fuel. anti gel during cold months...always use a fuel lube

over reving will cause bent push rods. there are aftermarket chrom moly rods that are stronger than stock

there are issues with CAM failures, lifter failures, bent push rods due to heads that are machined to fix head problems....shave a head .010 and now the push rods become .010 longer....puts stress on rods, cams, lifters and things grenade. there are shorter push rods avail for this as well as CAMS with smaller base circles.

oil cooler problems....oil cooler is an exchange unit that uses coolant on 1 side and oil on the other...either side will clog and the unit is toast...cant be back flushed like on a 6.4. use a coolant filter and use a oil by pass filter

water pump impeller will crack...replace with billet aluminum one.