I just started working for my dad, who's a truck dealer, and I'm trying to find outside opinions and information on the 6.0L and 6.4L engines. He prefers the 6.0 or the 7.3 because he's had fewer problems with them, and he hates the 6.4 because of his experience with the DPF getting clogged. However, every place I search says that the 6.4 is the better engine because of performance, even though the fuel economy isn't as good. Any information, or personal experiences, would be much appreciated.

 

The 6.4 has a lot of problems

tbis is a partial list....




a. cavitation of the coolant pump will cause coolant to enter crank case. aside from monitoriing oil level, you can add a coolant pressure guage...if the coolant pressure gauge drops quickly after turning off the engine...you have a leak from cavitation. use the ford coolant additive




b. orings on the cooling system lines. The lines will pop off and the coolant temp guage is no help in letting you know you just lost 3 gallons of coolant becuase it will show normal temp readings...until you head gaskets blow. coolant pressure gauge is needed.




c. contamination of coolant system with oil or contamination of oil system with coolant or both. cuased by the wonderful oil cooler which instead of using air to cool the oil, uses coolant. this results in eventual corrosion which allows oil/coolant exchange. install a air based oil cooler and disable the oil/coolant exchange unit.




d. the coolant/oil exchange unit will clog up and not cool your oil. install a coolant filter.




e. cracks under the injectors. this is caused by oil over levels cuased either by coolant problems or leaking fuel problems. monitor the oil levels vey frequently.




f. if you removed the DPF, what happended to the #3 temp sensor...in the 08 years a under performing one was used and once it fails...it will put the engine into wrench mode...you will be stuck on the side of the road. if you still have those sensors....replace the 08 ones with the newer design and use anti-sieze compound.




g. water contaimination will damage the pizo injectors. draing the seperator frequently, use a water absorbtion agent (which will now create a new problem item h) , install a high end fuel filter such as AIR DOG.




h. damage to the lift pump under the chasis and/or damage to the main high presure fuel pump. pump damage can occur if the pump runs dry (gelling) (clogged filters) (poor lube value of fuel). anti gel additive during cold months, if you use a water absorbition agent that just converts the water to vasoline which will clogg your filters so carry and extra filter set and the tools to change it with you, use a fuel lube such as opti lube or run B5 or greater. also, dont turn the key to start right away. put the key into the display on position and wait 5 seconds so that the fuel pumps pressurize the HPFP which will help prevent dry starts.




i. problems starting after filter changes. use only motorcraft filters.




j. lifter tip wear, broken rockers, bent push rods, etc. using the wrong weight oil for the given temps will prevent your valve train from getting lubed during startup and they wont get lubed until the oil is at operating temps. if you are in a cold climate, run 5W40 during the cold months. folks that use 15W40 during the winter are mistaken that the block heaters will help oil flow since the block heaters only warm the coolant and not the oil pan two feet below.




k. spun crank bearings. caused by oil issues. heavy towing with 5W40, oil that has been diluted with fuel (extended drain kings) , not allowing 5W40 to warm up to their thicker viscosity. weather permiting you can use thicker oils if you tow alot.




l. auto locking hubs that dont auto lock. this cant be fixed becuase the problem is air leaks in the hub via no related bolts for syspension componets, you can unbolt your vacume line off the hub and pout 4 oz of oil in it....if it leaks from the bottom you have an air leak which can only be fixed by replacing the hub.




j. truck hops from 4th to 6th and shudders. yeah, we have 6 speeds by the computer only used 5 of the gears. 5th is skipped from 4th and you get put into 6th. the only thing that helps and btw claimed to be the only tranny additive ok'd by OEM's is red lubguard. not green, not black, and I will stay away from the silver becuase I dont believe in universal anything.




k. transmission problems early. so there is a lot of confusion about using SP, then dont use SP use LV, then we can sell SP now...use SP, etc. SP is thicker than LV and I dont care what anyone says, I'm going to use SP until I cant get it anymore.




l. gem modules going bad. becareful about presure washing your truck and getting the electical system wet. there are these things called gem modules that fail and often have to be sent in for rebuild becuase no one sells them.




m. rust, rust, rust.....take your pick...fluid film, used motot oil, salt away, etc.




n. rings sticking, push rods being bent, etc. carbon build up due to just being a grocery store truck. most folks who own truck used them to go to homedepot 15minutes away. not enough operating time on the engine to prevent carbon build up, sticking rings , bent push rods due to valves hitting carbon deposits. run the truck on long trips often.




o. lifter disintegration. the lifters in the engine are a pint of failure. partly due to extended drain intervals. keep you oil fresh and use an oil additive like archoil.




p. holes in pistions cuased by injectors stuck open. usally associated with injectors stuck due to metal particle contamination in which the netal particles originate from the high pressure fuel pump that has failed (run dry, wear, water contamination, etc) there is no filter between the HPFP and the injector rail. get an exhaust temp monitoring system andn if you see high exhuast temps and thick clouds of smoke....you probally have an injector stuck open.




q. bent piston rods . hydo locking due to stuck injectors, exhuast vlaves that dont open due to valve train problems, or excessive carbon build up with cause bent psiton rods. remedies discussed above.

 

Damn it Fritz.

This forums going to be down to you and I pretty soon if you don't crack a smile once in awhile.

They made some good ones too!!!

Hugs!!

 

The 6L has a few issues, depending the year of the motor. If cheap tuners, the wrong oil filter/cap, or poor maintence are used you can be in for an expensive repair.

What to fix, when needed, is well documented. All I know of the 6.4 is it has a lot more complexity from the DPF and other emissions stuff which destroy the MPG.
Folks who delete all that stuff seem to get great fuel mileage though.

 

The 6.0, especially the 05-07 models are solid motors. Yes, you have to check your oil/coolant delta to make sure your oil cooler isn't clogged. Yes, they will blow head gaskets if tuned excessively without already having head studs. Yes, the FICM is a weakpoint if your batteries get too weak. Yes, a 6.0 will have premature problems is maintenance is neglected.

That being said, a 6.0 has weak spots that are fixable and avoidable. The 6.4 has a lot of weaknesses that cannot be fixed, only mitigated somewhat.

If you have very deep pockets and can handle a $1x,xxx repair or two...or three, the 6.4 is a more powerful and refined machine. Don't expect to make it 300k+ miles or even 200k without a new engine, since they are also rarely rebuildable. 200k miles on a 6.4 with emissions in place is hard to achieve without lots of easy highway miles or light highway towing.

 

Thank you, your opinion matters to me.

I sit in a 6.4 (wife's truck) but drive a 7.3.

If the EGR and DPF are gone, how do you measure the lifespan as compared to everything from 6.0 to 7.3

Guess my immediate question is, if deleted and babied? What do you think checkout time is?

Denny

 

Hard to say. International claims a B50 life of 375,000 miles. Half of the engines they produce should not need an overhaul before 375,000 miles. Key words being "should not"...of course this is based on following the recommended service intervals.

I deleted and baby mine...I hope that it will last me a while. I'm running strong with 111k and a 120hp Spartan tune. I drive it like an old man. Never WOT.

 

Thanx Pic, I'm a 16 year 7.3 owner and it still hauls the mail so to speak. I can't see any end of life after quarter million on her.

We bought the 08 6.4 as a (I can't call it a future me truck because this beast 7.3 is not even trying to sit down) however the new 6.4 is an eye opener for me in many regards.

I can spin a wrench like doc holiday spins a shot glass, but it is intimidating when you tell it to open wide.

What I've found so far really doesn't scare me away. They drive beautiful, run quiet, and are more comfortable than Hugh Hefner's hot tub.

I'm more than willing to take a blow to the bank if need be, but I consider maintenance a priority and I'm looking forward to this truck.

My wife drives it daily and I think she's going to have a hard time flipping the keys at that point.

Thank you for your opinion!!!

Denny

 

Sounds like if you've got a truck lift you should be able to handle anything the 6.4 could throw at you! Good luck man.

 

Thanx mister!!

Salute

Denny

 

⚠️ Warning ⚠️

Personal opinion about to be shared.

This coming from a Power Stroke and Ford diehard, the 6.0 can be massaged into a good platform. The only use for a 6.4 is a boat anchor. Seen them burn way too many people and close friends. It's never just "Oh, it's just an injector or head gaskets." It's "Engine replacement required."

 

Well...now THAT makes me feel good......Lol.

 

Maybe you have a Wednesday built truck. My brother's 08 was good. My 09 wasn't too good.

 

How can you tell if dpf and egr have been deleted
Thanks

 

J,

If you climb under the passenger side of the truck and there aren't 1000 dollar bills hanging there..................

Seriously, if the truck has been deleted, you will notice a strait pipe going from the collector to the rear of the passenger seat depending on what length they went with the surgery.

The egr delete would be a hood open exam immediately and high to the left of the hood latch. If all was washed, look thru the drivers side fender apron until you see the exhaust manifold. If you see the manifold, chances are the egr is gone as it is a large aluminum 3 inch by 20 inch piece of shine that blocks the view.

Hope it helps. Take a few pix and we can settle this in a glimpse.

Denny