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Do you think this will work. Two pressure treated 2x10 sitting on top of truck frame held in place with sand which of 2 steel plates and 2 all thread rods. Then 6 pressure treated 4x4 running across 2x10 held on by 4” angle iron and 5/4 Oak for floor.
Last edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618; Jan 3, 2019 at 02:16 PM.
Reason: To include Picture
I would worry about the strength of the all thread rods. I had u-bolts made for mine.
Here is a picture of how mine is attached. I can get some closeup pictures if you like.
Personally, I would not use pressure treated lumber. The corrosive nature of the chemicals used would likely cause more harm than good. I would fear after a few years of having them against your frame rails you would be very sorry. My 52 Mercury was originally a flatbed truck used by a moving company. Here's some pics of the bed on it when I started taking it apart, some 60 years later. They used 4x6's cut to the contour of the rails, attached those with U bolts and flat plates, 2x4's and 4x4's for crossmembers, and heavy 2x8 lumber for the deck. This was full dimension lumber, not the planed down stuff you get from the box lumber store.
Do you think this will work. Two pressure treated 2x10 sitting on top of truck frame held in place with sand which of 2 steel plates and 2 all thread rods. Then 6 pressure treated 4x4 running across 2x10 held on by 4” angle iron and 5/4 Oak for floor.
Wow, I have built house floors with less lumber then that. You will be able to hold up a house with all that lumber.
I want build the bed pretty strong as it will be hauling an antique hit and miss engine. It is an 1899, 5 HP Bessemer. I am guessing it weighs close to 1 ton.
I used vertical steel plate brackets at the front and rear of the stringers on my F4. I used threaded rod for mid stringer tie downs. I purchased rough cut, full dimension lumber for the stringers. If you elect to use PT for stringers, I suggest you put a pad between the truck frame rail and the stringer. I would think felt roofing would work well. Be aware if your stringer material is not totally dry it will shrink and mounting hardware will need adjustment.
I want build the bed pretty strong as it will be hauling an antique hit and miss engine. It is an 1899, 5 HP Bessemer. I am guessing it weighs close to 1 ton.
For future reference. I would never use pressure treated wood in contact with steel. Even truck body and trailer manufactures don't use it because of the alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) and copper azole (CA), which are both active corrosion materials that continually leach out. Best woods to use overall is clear Doug Fir or Southern Yellow Pine. I would stay away from Hemlock-Fir (Hem-Fir) commonly sold in box stores. White Oak or Apitong would be good for the deck.
Had the day off today (ice and snow). Since I am a volunteer firefighter, I had some old hose laying around. Cut the outside jacket off. Rubber is about 1/16” thick. Cut the rubber 3” wide. Here is a picture of two 10’ rolls. One for each frame rail. This will keep the pressure treated lumber out of direct contact with the frame rail. Also in the picture are the brackets I made for the 4x4 cross members.
Here is a photo of my 1899 5HP Bessemer Hit n Miss engine at a show this summer. I want to mount this engine to the bed of the truck. I am guessing the engine weighs about 1 ton.
Here is a photo of my 1899 5HP Bessemer Hit n Miss engine at a show this summer. I want to mount this engine to the bed of the truck. I am guessing the engine weighs about 1 ton.
