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I have been driving a 62 for a few years that I took apart in 1988 so can definetly relate.
I would for sure swap to disc brakes and a dual master at this point in the game. those drum brakes are ok when new and properly maintained but, not up to standards.
Hi guy's, did some more work on the truck. Needed to drop the front tierod end down below the springs and the previous owner had these crazy welded up rod ends. My machinest buddy took the lead on this and made these really nice machined extentions that screw on then clamp. Also need a adjustable brake pedal rod, he did that too.
Those tie rod extensions are just what I have been looking for to fix my lowered I beam kit on my 66 F100. I don't suppose your machinist friend would be interested in making a couple more would he?
Hey, that is a Johnny Law shifter. I think its kinda a copy of Lokar. It bolts to the top of the trans case and a simple linkage to the selector lever.
I have been driving a 62 for a few years that I took apart in 1988 so can definitely relate.
I would for sure swap to disc brakes and a dual master at this point in the game. those drum brakes are ok when new and properly maintained but, not up to standards.
A dual master cylinder for sure, for safety and redundancy. But personally I would keep the drums. Auto manufacturers did not switch to disc brakes because drums did not stop well, drum brakes, with the self energizing action, will stop a heavier vehicle better, without the need for power assist.
I have a source for old school asbestos linings and with those, my truck stops better than any disc brake conversion I have done or driven that someone else has done.
A dual master cylinder for sure, for safety and redundancy. But personally I would keep the drums. Auto manufacturers did not switch to disc brakes because drums did not stop well, drum brakes, with the self energizing action, will stop a heavier vehicle better, without the need for power assist.
I have a source for old school asbestos linings and with those, my truck stops better than any disc brake conversion I have done or driven that someone else has done.
What happens when it's raining and you drive thru a few puddles? The drum brakes get soaked, then you have to ride the pedal to dry them out. If it's pouring and there are many puddles, lotsa luck.
It never rains in California, but girl don't they warn ya. It pours, man, it pours. -Beach Boys
January 1962, was double dating with a pal who was driving his moms 1961 Pontiac station wagon, it had been pouring rain for hours. Pal lived in Beverly Hills, our dates lived in Van Nuys.
Within a few blocks of leaving his house, the Pontiac's drum brakes were soaked, so my pal turned around...drove back to the house, borrowed his step fathers Jaguar 3.8 sedan with 4 wheel discs.
No more soaked brakes, picked up the gals and continued on to the party.
Hey Guy’s, posting some updates on the Unibody. We took the advice from many of you and installed Power Disc brakes on the front, and Wow what a difference! (it was purchase as an exact fit conversion). And it was a very easy install, all the part actually fit! I had to hand bend all the brake lines but that’s ok with me cause I don’t like generic fit brake lines. My machinist buddy made me some really nice billet brackets to support the lines to the firewall. And while we were at it installed a super quite 12-volt vacuum pump to operate the power booster.
Next, we installed the new OEM type headliner, for any of you that has ever installed one know just how much of a pain it was. For any on you that has not, be sure to have a couple buddies in the cab with you, yep you will need all 6 hands! but it looks really good.
Next, I wanted to install a fan shroud, not that it needed it to stay cool, but it just looks better and finishes off the completed look. Searching the internet, I found a suitable fit that I could work with. Removed the radiator and did some measuring, I made a pattern out of cardboard and my buddy that own’s the truck has a programable plasma cutter and cut it out of Sheetmetal. I welded it to the radiator as the mounting flange, then installed studs for the shroud to mount to. If you look inside the shroud and notice 2 little tabs on top and bottom, that gives the shroud some support, so it doesn’t droop in the middle when it gets hot. Turned out really sweet.
Sheetmetal mounting flange.
Positioned the Shroud and welded studs in the flange.
Nice job on building your shroud adapter. Something you may want to consider, though; the rule of thumb for fan placement when using a shroud is half in, half out. Too far out and it won't pull air through, too far in and the air will cavitate leading to poor cooling conditions. FYI.
03-20-2019, 01:22 PM
