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Same coil keeps going bad

  #1  
Old 12-31-2018, 01:21 AM
Kelly Patrick
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Same coil keeps going bad

Hello, my '06 E250 work van w/ 105,000 miles started missing and then the CEL came on the other day so I pulled into an Autozone and the guy came out with a code reader and said I have a bad coil on cyl. #2 so I bought a new coil and new Motorcraft plugs and changed them on cyl #2.

It ran fine for 5-10 minutes then started missing again. I went back to Autozone to have the code pulled and it showed a bad coil on cyl # 2 again.
I pulled the coil out that only had a few minutes of run time on it and it was cracked and had black stuff oozing out of it like it was melted.
I put another new coil in and it did the same thing within 10 minutes. Had code pulled again and its saying bad coil on cyl # 2.

What could be causing these coils to melt down on the same cyl within 10 minutes of run time?

Thanks in advance for any help, Kelly
 
  #2  
Old 12-31-2018, 05:35 AM
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To your knowledge does this van have any sort of "performance enhancing" aftermarket tuner program installed into the original PCM? How does it run that short time when a new coil and plug is installed? What does the plug look like?

Needless to say Cyl #2 is running extremely hot, enough to melt the potted plastic case of the COP. I've been on these FTE forums a while now and have never read such a thing----hope its nothing other than a few bad COP's.
 
  #3  
Old 12-31-2018, 07:43 AM
Kelly Patrick
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No aftermarket parts or tune.
Ran great for about 10 min after new coil and plug were installed.
Bought COP at Autozone , Duralast brand. I returned/replaced the first one at a different store and the new one went bad in about 10 min also
Im gonna try to post a pic of the plug.

It would be nice if I just got 2 bad COP's but im afraid it might be something deeper.
 

Last edited by Kelly Patrick; 12-31-2018 at 07:50 AM. Reason: Added photo
  #4  
Old 12-31-2018, 09:57 AM
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I would try a better brand coil.
Duralast is house brand junk.
Get a Denso or Motorcraft coil and see what it does.
It is only $10 more than the Duralast at Autozone but available much cheaper online if you aren't in a hurry.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tion+coil,7060

Whenever you get the code read, always get the number to share for best troubleshooting advice.
And even better than that, get your own code reader or OBD2 interface to use with Forscan and apps such as Torque.
https://torque-bhp.com/wiki/Bluetooth_Adapters
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-2018, 11:01 AM
Kelly Patrick
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I would try another brand coil but since I could get another Duralast for free under warranty would it be a good idea to take a known working coil off another cyl. and replace it with the new Duralast and put the known working coil on cyl #2?

Im thinking if the new coil go's bad on another cyl then I would know for sure that I'm getting bad coils. If the known working coil I put on #2 cyl go's bad again then I know it has to be something specific with that #2 cyl.

I hope I'm making sense and thanks again for the help!
 
  #6  
Old 12-31-2018, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Kelly Patrick View Post
I pulled the coil out that only had a few minutes of run time on it and it was cracked and had black stuff oozing out of it like it was melted.
I put another new coil in and it did the same thing within 10 minutes.
To me it sounds like hot compression gases are getting past the spark plug and overheating the coil.
 
  #7  
Old 12-31-2018, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kelly Patrick View Post
I would try another brand coil but since I could get another Duralast for free under warranty would it be a good idea to take a known working coil off another cyl. and replace it with the new Duralast and put the known working coil on cyl #2?

Im thinking if the new coil go's bad on another cyl then I would know for sure that I'm getting bad coils. If the known working coil I put on #2 cyl go's bad again then I know it has to be something specific with that #2 cyl.

I hope I'm making sense and thanks again for the help!
Yes, you could swap one of the other coils to #2 and replace it with a new one to see what happens.

If you pay the price difference Autozone should be OK with upgrading you to a better coil since you have had so many Duralast fail. They aren't making out very well by handing out a free coil every time you show up.

Denso makes the coils for Motorcraft which is the OE spec coil originally used on your vehicle. Like I mentioned before, Rock Auto sells these a whole lot cheaper than Autozone. You could buy 2 higher quality Denso coils for what you paid for one junky Duralast.

 
  #8  
Old 01-01-2019, 06:39 AM
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Here's a good deal on individual Motorcraft DG-508's:
Motorcraft DG-508 Motorcraft DG-508

This same seller offers sets of 8 for $204 too:
8 Motorcraft DG-508 8 Motorcraft DG-508
 
  #9  
Old 01-01-2019, 08:27 AM
Kelly Patrick
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Well.. I returned the bad coil (it had a big crack in it as well). Instead of putting another new coil on cyl #2 I swapped it with another, easier to get to coil and put the known working coil on #2.
I hooked battery back up and started it up.
I could tell the miss was gone, CEL light was off, took it for a test ride, ran great then the engine shut off on me less than a mile from the house. ALL the lights on the dash appeared, even the little wrench.
Called my mechanic neighbor and he came with a code reader but it wouldn't even recognize the reader. Im hoping it's the OBD fuse but it was dark and New Years Eve so we just towed it to his house and he's going to look at it today.

I'll keep you guys posted.
Thanks again for the help.
 
  #10  
Old 01-01-2019, 04:49 PM
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Mechanic says its pointing towards the ECM.
Where would be a good place to get a new one?
 
  #11  
Old 01-02-2019, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Kelly Patrick View Post
Mechanic says its pointing towards the ECM.
Where would be a good place to get a new one?
The least expensive option is to get a used off eBay just make sure the numbers all match. It's best if you find someone selling the ECM and the keys that were programmed into it.
 
  #12  
Old 01-11-2019, 08:25 AM
Kelly Patrick
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Just wanted to post an update as to where I'm at with it now.
Replaced ECM and the bad coil on #2 last night and seems to have fixed it.
So I guess a bad ECM is what was causing the #2 coils to meltdown.
Thanks for the help.
 
  #13  
Old 01-12-2019, 06:19 AM
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Glad you got this sorted out and thanks for the update---could be helpful to others down the road.
 
  #14  
Old 01-12-2019, 06:59 AM
Kelly Patrick
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Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Glad you got this sorted out and thanks for the update---could be helpful to others down the road.
Well... It did it again!! LOL
I replaced the ECM, new coil and plug in #2, took it for a test ride around my neighborhood (maybe a mile) and it ran beautiful. Parked it and went to bed feeling good thinking that it must of been the ECM and that its finally fixed.
The next morning on my way to work (about a 45 min ride) I felt it start missing again and check engine light came back on. After work when I started it the check engine light was off and it ran smooth (no miss) but as soon as it warmed up it started missing and the light came back on.
Now the CEL is on and its missing as soon as I start it up.
Its showing PO3052 again.
 
  #15  
Old 01-12-2019, 10:31 AM
Kelly Patrick
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The code showing up is PO352.
(I wrote the wrong code in my above post and don't know how to edit it).
 

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