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Sep 28, 2003 | 07:34 AM

53Merc

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From: High Park, Toronto

Brake Hassles

My brakes seem to be seized but 1st let me tell you that I'm running a 5.0L/AOD driveline pulled from an '86 Mark VII in my '53 Mercury M100. The front clip is a '78 Volare and I have a Mustang II Master Cylinder with power booster.

When I set the brakes up years ago I had some problems with the front claipers not releasing but thought I had that solved, however I just got my engine running and was thinking I was going to move it today for my 50th Bday, but NOOOOOOOO...

After I hooked up the vacuum line from the vacuum tree on the upper plenum to the Mustang II booster and turned on lthe engine the peddle got soft and almost went to the floor. Tried to move it anyways but didn't want to budge when I put it in gear... thought I might need some more Tranny fluid so I topped that up and also checked the master cylinder, under the floor don;t you know... while I was under there I checked the front wheels and couldn't budge 'em...
Anybody else run accros this or have soem ideas for a solution so me and my 50 year old truck can go for a drive today?!!!?

"53 Merc

Sep 28, 2003 | 08:06 AM

57_ford

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From: Maryland

What happens if you unpluged the booster at the check valve and let the vacume out of the booster?

Sep 28, 2003 | 08:40 AM

53Merc

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From: High Park, Toronto

I took the vacuum line out of the booster and it made no difference....where's the check valve?
"53Merc

Sep 28, 2003 | 08:44 AM

57_ford

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From: Maryland

Not sure, In most cars it is the elbow that is accatched in the booster you can just pull it out, Other cars have a in line one, It will be one or the other.

Sep 28, 2003 | 08:34 PM

medicpg

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From: Fremont, CA

I have had similiar problems and just resolved them. First I would take off the front caliper and make sure its the caliper thats locking it and not anything else.....I had an issue with the lower control arm just barely touching the rotor. I had to gring it down. thought that would solve it, but had another issue with the pedal binding on the way up. I enlarged the opening on the floor, tightened my pedal linkage, put in the cross brace for the booster bracket which I had left off, installed residual valves for the front and changed the combination valve I was using to one that had a metering valve in it. Bled them again and voila it all worked. Not sure what the problem was, I dont think it was the residual valves, but I think the linkage was messed up. If there is any pressure left in the system, lets say the pedal isnt coming all the way up, the calipers wont release. It took mine about 15 minutes of driving before that hapened.

Sep 28, 2003 | 09:00 PM

53Merc

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From: High Park, Toronto

Thanks Eastbay, that gives me some stuff to check out...it'll take me a few days to get back to it but I'll let you guys know how it goes.

A buddy of min ewas over tonight and thougth I shouls try the adjustable push rod in between the master cylinder and the booster.

53Merc

Sep 28, 2003 | 10:22 PM

medicpg

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From: Fremont, CA

good luck...let me know what happens. I think your freind is on the right track

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Sep 30, 2003 | 08:11 PM

medicpg

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From: Fremont, CA

I would try and bleed the front calipers. can you remove the calipers and then try and turn the wheel? Maybe its not the brakes, but maybe a bearing?

Sep 30, 2003 | 08:49 PM

#10

bhabben

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Calipers.

To make sure it's not hydraulics open the bleeders. You should be able to push the pistons back into the calipers with reasonable force.

Good Luck!
Brett

Sep 30, 2003 | 09:33 PM

#11

53Merc

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From: High Park, Toronto

Thanks guys, will do!

'53Merc

Oct 4, 2003 | 07:28 AM

#12

53Merc

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From: High Park, Toronto

Well group, I removed the pin and shortened it as far as I could and while it was out, I removed the callipers from the disks, leaving the lines in place. I was able to back the calliper piston off with a tool without much effort at all, and the discs turned freely once the ccallipers and shoes were removed.
The drivers' side wheel that I could move a little ... well that calliper was a little damp...seeping from the boot I suppose so I figure I should replace that calliper.
After talking with Jason, I'm wondering if the return spring inside the power booster is the problem.

Any new suggestions or ideas?

Oct 4, 2003 | 10:21 AM

#13

medicpg

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From: Fremont, CA

maybe the pedal linkage isnt adjusted properly and its not coming all the way up. that would mean the rod is still engaged in the booster.
check out:http://www.mpbrakes.com/troubleshooting.htm