Replaced the timing chain and oil pump the truck started ran very badly for about 15 mins then died now wont start have fuel to rail spark on plugs no codes cranks fine no noises

 

Sounds like maybe you didn't set the timing right. Did you do the phasers, tensioners and guides while you were in there?

 

Fingers point to radiator 0n wheel . Of course it could be miss timed . Did you carefully line it up with cam lobes Or did you try a short cut .

 

 

Yes changed all guides and tensioner reluctor wheel was installed correctly.the only problem had was cams didnt roll towards passenger side they wanted to roll to the drivers side. Would that cause my problem.

 

Do you refer to the direction of rotation when cranking . Or do you mean you had to fight cams as you put chain on due to valve spring pressure . What method were you using ,did you pull followers to time it . Or did you pull cams . At the timing point cam lobes must be facing per ford in the direction of the ford book drawings . If everything else lined up this roughly puts you near timing point . When chain goes on with the proper links lined up it will fine tune the timing .Only a few degrees of cam rotation 10/20 are necessary to get it lined up.
The drawing I sent you removes your reliance on left and right markings and instead uses passenger /drivers side. You can't move crank or cams with chains off unless you know exactly what you are doing . My method removes cams first so no valves are pushed down . Ford method removes certain followers to prevent bending valves and release spring tension .
When you think you have timed it correctly and put back together only then can you turn crank by hand two revs clockwise to prove no valve to piston contact . Never use starter or force it . Its easier to have plugs out at that time . If you have contact you are wrong and must start over .
The key points of timing are the crank dot at six oclock/ the phaser marks with chain straddling L or R/ The cam lobes facing in the direction shown . The 11 oclock on the crank key is just a visual check ,the six oclock crank dot is the real deal. That dot is straight down on the bottom as shown in diagram . Only the single chain link goes on dot . The double link goes on phaser L/R one each side per diagram . Note that at that point the drivers side phaser will have L up not R .
Turning the crank without the pulley on but keyway on is done with a large 32 mm socket right over key way .
Pulling cams is not hard but all parts must go back exactly where and how they came out as they are fitted ,mark them and lay them out . Unbolting and reinstall is the same sequence and done in very small steps for each bolt to not stress cam .

 

I will pulling it back apart and starting over thank you for advice I will let you know in a day or two if that fixes it

 

I checked everything on chains and reluctor wheel all is good on timing. Would high volume oil pump cause my issues?

 

My oil pressure is on third line when cranking and climbs when idling

 

Your factory oil pressure gauge is an idiot light . It goes to midscale for any pressure over 7 psi . You have a relief spring on pump that lets excessive oil pressure bleed off for certain running conditions ..It is no way a real pressure gauge. It simply is a contact that closes above 7 psi . Engine cam circuit needs at least 15 psi or more as it is a hydraulic system .
I wish the hv pump was avail when I did mine ,I did use the melling 360 pump . Did you use oem phasers ,there is no question about this all the rest are junk .One indication is when they are at rest the middle finger should be covering the L or R mark looking straight on shaft when the three fingers are up .
Glad you verified timing ,did you replace vcts . You may need torque pro to see whats happening .
If you are talking factory gauge something electrical not right . Grounds in left kick panel and right kick panel should be cleaned . External oil pressure gauge should be used if you think its real . Very very doubtful . Are these new boots and plugs and a very clean job .
Do you think your crank sensor plug clean and making good contact .One test is to see when cranking does rpm gauge move . You did clean plastic out of oil pan and pu ?

 

I did not pull pan but drained and srapced from front. Cam sensor clean. An update on the truck is it cranks and tries to bust off but acts like no fuel but checked fuel system and injectors all good and firing

 

No on plugs and yes on vcts

 

Have you checked your fpdm on rear axle for corrosion and water entry. A severe vacuum leak could do it There is a very difficult to get to vacuum line on rear of intake on 04 . There is a large connector and then a small one on passenger side . They deleted the latter in 05. That small one is difficult . I have some pics on another computer .

 

K it starts and runs for about 15 to 30 seconds only if left 24hrs+. Checked vacuum lines on rear of in take all is good. Sounds like maybe not firing correctly.

this is timing at point of final install

 

K it starts and runs for about 15 to 30 seconds only if left 24hrs+. Checked vacuum lines on rear of in take all is good. Sounds like maybe not firing correctly.

this is timing at point of final install