Running good and then just quit, help.
#17
#18
"Kurttb1" brought up a good point. After you confirm that you have spark at the plugs, and if it still will not start, check to see if you have gas in the carb float bowl. Although It sounds like your truck shut off very quick, so I would lean towards an electrical issue before a gas one.
#21
#23
Did a quick 'old fashion' test. Pulled plug, tested by grounding and cranking and no spark. Pulled coil wire at distributer, grounded, cranked and had spark. How do I test the PerTronix 1281 electronic points for input and/or output! Checked ground and it looked good. Checked gas and its coming to the venturies (sp).
#24
Pulled coil wire at distributer, grounded, cranked and had spark.
Checked ground and it looked good.
Now your first test is a kind of measurement in that you've determined there is spark from the coil. Is it a good, hot, fat whitish-blue spark? Or a thin yellow spark?
There is apparently a problem in the distributor cap itself, rotor, or the plug wiring, or plugs. Once in a while, people will chase a no start, and then notice the distributor rotor sitting on the bench. Ask me how I know. But if the coil is firing, the Ignitor is working. It's just not being distributed to the plugs for some reason.
#25
I would check the rotor. Not only for breakage, but make sure it will not spin freely on the shaft. If spark is getting through the cap from the coil, the only other option is the rotor or the center button inside the cap.
I would also go up to .62 on the carb jets. More power, less warm up time, and actually better fuel mileage if you keep your foot out of it. As a bonus the cylinder temps will go down. At least go to .60.
I would also go up to .62 on the carb jets. More power, less warm up time, and actually better fuel mileage if you keep your foot out of it. As a bonus the cylinder temps will go down. At least go to .60.
#26
I would check the rotor. Not only for breakage, but make sure it will not spin freely on the shaft. If spark is getting through the cap from the coil, the only other option is the rotor or the center button inside the cap.
I would also go up to .62 on the carb jets. More power, less warm up time, and actually better fuel mileage if you keep your foot out of it. As a bonus the cylinder temps will go down. At least go to .60.
I would also go up to .62 on the carb jets. More power, less warm up time, and actually better fuel mileage if you keep your foot out of it. As a bonus the cylinder temps will go down. At least go to .60.
#29
And for future reference, either don't do that test with the coil wire, or at least make sure that the wire is long enough to get well away from the distributor.
Ignitors (and most other electronic devices when it comes right down to it) do not like errant spikes and sparks flying hither and yon. I once fried a perfectly good Ignitor I because I wanted to test the spark out of the coil wire. Got one and a half healthy sparks, then nothing.
Generally, testing the plug wires this way is not as much of an issue, since they're longer and farther away from the distributor and module anyway. But the coil wires are often shorter and you end up grounding the tip much closer to the distributor.
From then on my method for checking for spark was to connect an inductive timing light and watch for the pretty flashing lights.
The bonus of this is that you can very easily see erratic sparks and tell whether any particular plug is not getting a spark.
Back to your issue, have you pulled the distributor cap off since the problem started? If you have, sorry I just missed it in the comments.
Good luck.
Paul
Ignitors (and most other electronic devices when it comes right down to it) do not like errant spikes and sparks flying hither and yon. I once fried a perfectly good Ignitor I because I wanted to test the spark out of the coil wire. Got one and a half healthy sparks, then nothing.
Generally, testing the plug wires this way is not as much of an issue, since they're longer and farther away from the distributor and module anyway. But the coil wires are often shorter and you end up grounding the tip much closer to the distributor.
From then on my method for checking for spark was to connect an inductive timing light and watch for the pretty flashing lights.
The bonus of this is that you can very easily see erratic sparks and tell whether any particular plug is not getting a spark.
Back to your issue, have you pulled the distributor cap off since the problem started? If you have, sorry I just missed it in the comments.
Good luck.
Paul
#30
And for future reference, either don't do that test with the coil wire, or at least make sure that the wire is long enough to get well away from the distributor.
Ignitors (and most other electronic devices when it comes right down to it) do not like errant spikes and sparks flying hither and yon. I once fried a perfectly good Ignitor I because I wanted to test the spark out of the coil wire. Got one and a half healthy sparks, then nothing.
Generally, testing the plug wires this way is not as much of an issue, since they're longer and farther away from the distributor and module anyway. But the coil wires are often shorter and you end up grounding the tip much closer to the distributor.
From then on my method for checking for spark was to connect an inductive timing light and watch for the pretty flashing lights.
The bonus of this is that you can very easily see erratic sparks and tell whether any particular plug is not getting a spark.
Back to your issue, have you pulled the distributor cap off since the problem started? If you have, sorry I just missed it in the comments.
Good luck.
Paul
Ignitors (and most other electronic devices when it comes right down to it) do not like errant spikes and sparks flying hither and yon. I once fried a perfectly good Ignitor I because I wanted to test the spark out of the coil wire. Got one and a half healthy sparks, then nothing.
Generally, testing the plug wires this way is not as much of an issue, since they're longer and farther away from the distributor and module anyway. But the coil wires are often shorter and you end up grounding the tip much closer to the distributor.
From then on my method for checking for spark was to connect an inductive timing light and watch for the pretty flashing lights.
The bonus of this is that you can very easily see erratic sparks and tell whether any particular plug is not getting a spark.
Back to your issue, have you pulled the distributor cap off since the problem started? If you have, sorry I just missed it in the comments.
Good luck.
Paul